THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 20996, 9 January 1932, Page 19

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

Our contributor, a well-known gardener, will be glad to answer questions, which must be received not later than Tuesday of each week. Advertisements for this column must be handed In to the office before 2 p.m. on Friday.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN The principal work in this department just now will bo in attending to young growing crops by way of hoeing, raking, and watering, but we must not forget to complete the work of planting crops for winter and spring use. As a pule this and next month are hot and dry, hence advantage should be taken of every cool or showery day to do what planting is required. Garden rubbish is apt to accumulate in odd corners, and become a nuisance or give off an obnoxious odour. -This should not bo allowed. Spent crops should be quickly disposed of, and there is no better place for it than the bottom of a good, deep trench. Vacant ground should be dug up as spent crops become cleared. Ido not_ waste a single cabbage leaf. Every one is dug into the ground it comes from.. Plant out broccoli of the late or third division kinds for coming into use next spr ng Cabbage teed may be sown to stand the winter. The kind for this sowing is of the greatest importance, for the reason that so many varieties are quite suitable for spring sowing, yet almost useless for autumn sowings; therefore, care must be taken in the selection of kinds to sow now, or very serious consequences probably would follow. When the winter has passed and growth starts in spring, instead of the cabbages growing on and hearting, as they should do, they run to seed. This may be a serious loss, especially when grown in quantity. I will name two or three varieties which may be depended upon to heart up instead of bolting to seed. These are Flower of Spring, Imperial, | and Meens No. 1 I like the two firstnamed the best. Celery may be planted out as circumstances demand, giving rich and well-manured trenches. Spinach of the prickly kind may bo sown for winter. Leeks may be planted in trenches much after, the method of growing celery. They may also be planted in rows in the open ground, but they cannot he grown to the same state of perfection as in trenches. Take up garlic and shallots as they mature to dry or ripen off. Sow parsley for winter use. Lift early potatoes as the tops begin to ripen. Turnips may still he sown. Stake peas before they fall over. It is late for sowing peas except in places where early frosts will not be troublesome outside. Tomatoes may be kept free of side shoots. All these should be removed and the plants made secure or tied to stakes. THE FLOWER GARDEN The laying of carnations may be done from about Christmas time to the end of January or even later, preferably about the new year. This gives the layers time to root and be planted out before winter. They should be securely planted and well established in their flowering quarters before severe frosts occur. Hard frosts soon after planting may lift or loosen up the plants. If this happens they stand a big chance of being destroyed. Pro-*! eeed by removing all yellow leaves ' or some of the lower leaves, and other , rubbish. Then surround the plant to be layered with rich sandy or gritty loam. Remove any leaves which may be in the way at the base of the young shoot. Make a cut with a sharp knife through a joint upwards and about halfway through the stem to form a tongue. Then with a wooden hook or pieces of bent wire—hairpins will answer—peg them down firmlv into the soil. Cover the stems that have been layered with an inch or so of the same gritty soil. Water well to settle the soil firmly about them, and the job is complete. It may be necessary to have to apply more water as the soil should be kept moist. Keep sweet pea growing by the frequent application of weak liquid manure. This is better than seldom and On the other hand do not overdo this watering with liquid manure or water. Too much watering may cause the flowers to drop before maturing. Pick off all faded flowers. Attention to this will keep them flowering much longer and better. Gladiolas should be making strong •growth; consequently they should be tied and made secure against heavy winds, as they are very brittle, and may be seriously damaged. Where flowers for exhibition isthe object they should have an occasional watering with liquid manure. That made from cow or sheep manure is preferred. Manure feeding should cease as soon as they show colour in the flowers, j Some varieties will not stand direct hot sun without scalding. In such cases shading will be necessary; indeed, some develop and improve after being cut and put in water and kept in a cool shady place. Keep the surface soil well stirred, and hoed about them, as they do not like a hard, dry surface soil. Continue to bud roses and look over those previously budded. If failures have occurred insert another bud on the other side of the stem before the sap ceases to flow freely, after which budding will cease. Pick off faded flowers as they appear. Do not allow seed heads to form, as this is a severe drag upon the strength or energy of the bush. Mulch or water roses with liquid manure to assist the production of a good autumn display of bloom. Hoe or stir the surface the next day after rain or water with manure water, as this keeps the soil open and admits fresh air to the roots and prevents the hardening or caking of the ground. Remove seed pods from rhododendrons. This should he carefully attended to, as it materially improves the next season’s flowering. Remove faded flowers and decayed stems of herbaceous plants. Pick off spent flowers from other flowering plants. Tie up tall-growing plants, such as chrysanthemums, dahlias, and others which require supports. Lift bulbs of narcissus where they have become crowded, and prepare by deep digging and manuring beds for replanting them. Tulips should be lifted and put away to ripen or dry off before storing away until planting. When they are thoroughly dry or ripe divide the small off-sets from flowering bulbs ready for planting later on. Lift anemones, ranunculus, and other plants which have ripened off their tops. Hoe and rake flower beds and borders and mow lawns. H.C. ANSWERS

“Aspidistra.”-—ln your letter you do not state how long your plant has been in the same pot, how often you water it, or the position you keep it in. The following is the correct treatment for aspidistras. Plants should be

repotted every second season, the correct time being from May to September. Good rich soil should be used, being particular to give good_ drainage at the base of the pot. Watering: Soak the pot in a bucket of water twice a week for ten minutes; take pot out of water and allow it to drain for about the same time before replacing in the bowl, etc. If your plant has not been repotted for some time, trim off the withered leaves and top dress the soil with a little fertiliser. TO MEND LEAKING GARDEN HOSE Procure an old bicycle inner tube, cut it lengthwise into three or four strips. Bind a strip tightly round the hole, covering about an inch on each side. Stretch while binding almost to breaking point, and overlap about half the width of the strip. Bind again as tightly as possible allowing a good overlap, with insulated tape, procurable in rolls from any electrical shop. Start the tape from the loose end of the rubber strip. This will hold it in place and will prevent it from slipping. Work back _to the starting point of the rubber strip binding. It is better to start and finish on the hose half an inch or so beyond the rubber _ strip. _ No further tying or binding is required, the tape being adhesive. It holds fast when dry. A large hole may be stopped by this method if both bindings are tight and are well overlapped. HYDRANGEAS Hydrangeas are among the _ most popular summer flowering shrubs in the garden. They are easily grown, are decorative in the open ground, in tubs, or in pots, and will thrive even in indifferent soil if given semi-shade and water. Hydrangea hortensis, in pink and blue shades of colour, has been known and grown for many years. The flowers vary in colour from pink to blue shade, and under favourable conditions plants will grow into large, shapely bushes, 4ft to 6ft high and 10ft to 12ft across. In recent years another strain of hybrids has be.en introduced, and it is to-day largely grown under glass in England and France. Thriving, as they do, to perfection in the open ground m Australia (says the Melbourne ‘ Age ’), these plants are quickly gaining popularity. They are dwarfer in habit than the older type, but they have a wide range of colour. Some of the finest named varieties incuude Parsival. flowers deep pink, edges of the bracts serrated like a bloom of Primula inalacoides; Rubis, one of the deepest reds obtainable; Lancelot, like Parsival, flowers very freely, a well-grown plant may bear from thirty to forty blooms when growing in semi-shade in the open garden. Radiant has small flowering bracts, but the heads of bloom arc dense, and the colour is a brilliant blue; Germaine Mouillere is a beautiful ivory to white, and each flowering bract is beautifully fimbriated. Nurserymen are offering large supplies of these modern hydrangeas, now in bloom, and if watered through January and February they can be planted with safety. SWEET WIVELSFIELD It is to Messrs Allwood Bros., the well-known carnation growers, that we owe thanks for.the delightful flower—half pink, half carnation—known as Allwoodii. This fragrant, hardy plant has become popular in New Zealand gardens, where it seems able to adapt itself to almost any soil, and to be unaffected by our winds (says the ‘ Dominion’s ’ gardening contributor). Now Messrs Allwood Bros, have given us a new and very delightful annual, i this time a cross between the Sweet 1 William and a dianthus. They have called it Sweet Wivelsfield. In habit, the plants are like Sweet William; the foliage is similar, and so also are the flowers bunched on slender nine-inch stems. The flowers themselves are larger, many of them being brilliantly coloured, and all of them quaintly marked. In colours and markings they resemble the dianthus parent, and the effect of a whole bed or large patches of the plants is absolutely brilliant. Sweet Wivelsfield is very hardy, and grows freely from seeds, sown either in the autumn or the spring. Plants are in flower now, making delightfully gay patches of colour. When they have finished flowering they may be cut hard back, and they flower again the following year. Although classed as an annual, they will go through two seasons in New Zealand. After that it is best to have new plants. In this, too, they are like their parent Sweet William. Any soil seems to suit the plants, but it must be well dug, and should have some well-decayed garden rubbish worked in, and a good dressing of lime. Of the extreme < hardiness of Sweet Wivelsfield there is no doubt. I saw it flourishing in Dunedin, some weeks ago, and it is growing happily in Wellington gardens fairly exposed to wind. When one considers its parents, Sweet William and dianthus, both exceptionally hardy subjects, able to stand wind, fairly dry conditions, and quite ordinary soil (provided lime is _ plentiful), one can see that Sweet Wivelsfield is likely to become a prominent feature of most gardens, and especially hillside ones. Seedlings flower the first year from sowing. TROP/EOLUM POLYPHYLLUM Now that rock gardens are becoming more in evidence, many_ of the older and really beautiful trailing plants are being made much of. Among these is tropaeohnn polyphyllum, which is splendidly adapted for trailing over a sunny bank or over a large reek (writes “ Lorna,” in the ‘Manawatu Daily Times’). Although a native of Chile, it is one of the Chilean plants that have proved hardy in the United Kingdom. This tropaeolum is a most distinct plant which sends out trailing branches thickly clothed with glaucous blue foliage, and about November it commences to produce its canary yellow flowers in such profusion as almost to smother the plant. The flower is similar in shape to others of the tropaeolum family. It loves a sandy soil and a sunny place is generally recommended for it, but it will, however, bloom well in shade. The plant produces tubers, and these are planted some 9in deep, and should for preference bo planted in the autumn.

BEAUTIFUL MINIATURE BELLFLOWERS FOR THE ROCK GARDEN The dainty campanulas, or bellflowers, provide such delightful masses of bloom in late summer and autumn that they are invaluable for the rock garden. By autumn the brilliant colour effects_ of most alpine plants are only memories, but this is the season when the bellflowers are in full beauty, their flowers standing out splendidly against the foliage of the earlier-flowering plants (says ‘Popular Gardening,’ London). There are many kinds to choose from, but for the small rock garden the lowgrowing sorts are most desirable. Nearly all of them are blue and purple though there are lovely white varieties. Some are bell-shaped, others flat and saucer-like, and some are shaped like stars; whilst the foliage varies from grey to green, and in at least one variety to golden yellow. Most campanulas are easy to grow, and increase readily in the well-drained soil usually found in rock gardens. An open position in light soil where they can get the sun will suit them well. Campanula turbinata is a fine little plant with greyish-green leaves and purple cup-shaped flowers which are held erect on stems Sin or Gin high. It is easily grown, and I have seen it used as an edging to a herbaceous border, but it deserves a special place in the rockery, where it forms a compact clump. Campanula pulla is a deep purple bellflower, very free flowering, and dwarf. Each bell is borne separately on a stem about 4in high. It prefers a cooler soil than most sorts, and a little peat added to the soil is a great help; lime in the form of old mortar nibble is also appreciated. If planted near a large stone its roots will run under it in search of moisture. Campanula G. F. Wilson is a vigorous grower. The flowers, violet and slightly drooping, are produced in remarkable profusion. This campanula will flourish in any ordinary soil, and will often bloom again if it is cut right down as soon as the first flowers are over. Campanula Warley plena is an attractive little plant with double pale blue flowers. Campanula Warley is a good grower, and soon forms a fine plant, becoming covered with rose-like blooms. THE ROSE'S INFLUENCE LINK BETWEEN NATIONS “ Every rose lover should recall the world-wide domain of the rose,” said Mr C. W. Heyde at a recent meeting of the National Hose Society in Sydney. “It would not only deepen his interest in it as the most refined and cherished flower, but would also widen his outlook in an international sense.” Mr Heyde added that deeper knowledge of the rose’s historical associations would result in better understanding between nations. The rose was a link between nations. Born in the East, it had been diffused over all the world. Although roses were brought into being, in countries wide apart and by people who are not able to speak each other’s language, they found no difficulty in living together in perfect harmony. FLOWERS FOR DRY SEASONS From now on dry weather is t« be expected, and empty spaces in borders should for preference _ be filled with those subjects which withstand the heat fairly well (writes “ Lorna,” in the Manawatu ‘ Daily Times ’). Among these are petunias, coreopsis, all kinds of sunflowers, statice, portulaca, _ verbenas, African marigolds, and, in a lesser degree, French mangolds and antirrhinums. The above all seem to enjoy themselves, no matter how hot the weather may be. A good deal of the success of gardening depends upon the ability of the gardener to keep the plots gay through any season, but the hottest months are the most trying in this respect, and anything, whether it be shrub, climber, annual, or perennial, should be taken note of if it flowers and looks well during that season. Gannas and geraniums are among the best of things for this purpose, and should always be included in the general scheme of the garden. Ivy geraniums bloom profusely for many months and can be successfully used for covering banks and unsightly places about the home surroundings. Pentstemons are also quite good in providing plenty of spikes during hot weather. ENEMY OF WALNUTS HUSK MAGGOT IN AMERICA War on the walnut husk maggot has been declared by scientists connected with the University of California Citrus Experiment Station at Riverside, The husk maggot, found originally in the Middle West, has of late years been a growing menace to California walnut growers, Mr L. D. Batchelor, director of the experimental station, asserts. An intensive study of parasitic insects which would destroy the, maggots is being made by the staff. Professor Harry S. Smith has been sent to the Middle West to observe incubation of the maggots. While he is away, Mr A. M. Boyce, assistant entomologist, is continuing tests of two internal parasites, which might prove invaluable in combating the dreaded maggot. He is investigating the possibility of developing a hibernating race of these valuable parasite. If these parasites can be made to adopt a longer hibernation period, so that they will be laying eggs once a yesr just at the time the walnut husk maggot is in the latvai stage something may be done to control this pest.

GARDEN ARCHES The garden arch is intimately linked up with the display of beautiful climbing plants, with the beauty and soft colouring of the rambler roses or the pink and white single roses, with the white-flowered jessamine or any other climbing plant of vigorous growth and luxuriant foliage. It is seen at its best whr; it frames a view either near or far, is used at the entrance to a fresh vista, or frames the middle distance of a long, somewhat flat drive or pathway. When planning an arch it is wise to err on the side of generosity. Allowance must be made for tho growth and play of the climbing plants to be grown oyer jt. _ Thus, although an arch 7ft high is higher than required for people to walk under, yet tho branches of the plants will fall down Ift to 2ft from the top. There is also a sense of spaciousness in a wide and high arch that unconsciously adds to its attraction. The width may be Oft to 12ft, or even 15ft, the height Bft to 10ft or up to 12ft. Dressed jarrah or hardwood posts make the most satisfactory arches. The hardiness of the hardwood posts is ensured by stripping off tho bark, and the lower portion to a length or 2)ft to 3ft should be either charred or well tarred in order to prevent the entrance of dry rot or borer. The posts will stand 18in in the ground, and the tarring must continue for 9in to 12in above ground level. When the posts are set up the cross beams of lighter wood must be adzed on the under side at the position where they will rest on the upright. Thus they will lie about lin to 2in into the uprights, where they may be further secur.d by drilling a hole through upright and cross beam and _ securely strapping one to the other Avith a I'cav strands of strong wire. The cross beams must not be alloAved to sag downAvards, and if there is any lean on the Avood it should be placed in such a Avay that tne slight curvature is upward. If the arch is wide a double line of cross beams is most satisfactory, and if up to 12ft in height the apparent height is minimised even before the planting brings it down to the garden by placing a further lower pair of uprights about 3ft out and away from the main uprights. Thus in ,a large country garden an arch 12ft in Avidth might be extended to the generous Avidth of 18ft. DISEASE OF TOMATOES RESEARCH IN AUSTRALIA Since it Avas demonstrated that “ spotted wilt ” _ in tomatoes is transmitted by a species of thrips, investigations in Autralia have proceeded a further stage. The conclusions are summarised in a bulletin just issued by the Council for Scientific and Indutrial Research. The authors, Messrs J. G. Bald, B.Agr.Sc., assistant plant pathologist, division of plant industry, and Geoffrey Samuel, M.Sc., plant pathologist, Waite Agricultural Research Institute, University of Adelaide, have shown that it is necessary for the adult thrips to feed on a diseased plant while in the larval stage in order to become a carrier of the disease. The ‘ Sydney Morning Herald ’ says: —“ It has also been ascertained that a large number of plants can be infected with spotted Avilt, including tobacco, and at least three species of garden floAvers—lceland poppy, -nasturtium, and zinnia. There are indications that there may be several others which are able to harbour the spotted wilt virus. This is particularly important since Iceland poppies and nasturtiums are commonly grown in suburban gardens in the winter period, when tomatoes cannot be grown as an outdoor crop. “A method of mechanical inoculation of spotted Avilt has been developed with practically 100 per cent, success. This has been found very important for the determination of virus properties, and forms a ready means of ascertaining the plants capable of being infected Avith the disease. “The bulletin states that work_ is being continued, with the co-operation of Dr Phipps, in an attempt to breed a tomato more resistant to spotted wilt, by crossing the very resistant currant tomato Avith commercial varieties. It is considered that the development of inoculation may have an important influence in accelerating this work by enabling cross-breds to be tested rapidly, and in large numbers, while still in the seedbed stage. The breeding programme, however, is one Avhicb must necessarily extend over a number of years.” DIVIDING PYRETHRUMS It never pays to alloiv pyrethrums to develop into big clumps, as the flowers which are produced from the centre are small and insignificant. Division can take place in January and February immediately after blooming time. Some groivers Avait until later, but the advantage lies on the side of early divided plants. Take up the clumps, and either pull them to pieces or, better still, use a blunt knife and plant each portion out firmly into a wellmanured bed or border, giving them a good soaking of _ Avater aftenvards. Dealt with m this Avay, fresh groAvth will soon follow, and oy another year moderate sized plants, yielding finer flowers, will result. It is only when pyrethrums are allowed to go year after year that deterioration of blossoms sets in; besides, moderate-sized clumps are better in a border. KEEPING SOIL SWEET As soon as any ground is cleaned of its crops the soil should be at once deeply dug or trenched, and, if necessary, be manured and made ready for future croppings. This allows the soil to become, in a measure, sweetened and in better condition for later sowing and planting. In any case the sowing and planting of crops will have to be done towards the end of the present or early next month. PLANTS FOR THE WILD GARDEN In many gardens there is < a rough strip of ground, perhaps lying along the edge of a pond or stream, which one would like to beautify Avithout much labour being entailed in the upkeep. The folloAving plants avj'll groAv in such places and require no cultural care other than that of removing their dead flower stalks; Hemerocallis (day lilies) in variety, trollius _ (globe flowers), funkia sieboldii, giant thistles (grey foliaged), gunneras, iris sibirca, all kinds of flax and bamboo, and acanthus, while groupings of narcissi may also be made. Tne golden and crimson barked salix (willoAvs) are useful as a background, intermingled Avith other shrubs such as berberis, cotoneasters, viburnums, prunus, etc.