AROUND THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS

Evening Star, Issue 20688, 10 January 1931, Page 10

AROUND THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS

THE WINTER TRIP (Contributed.) 1 wonder how many of you have done that wonderful winter trip around the South Sea Islands P Wo did it last year, and I am here trying to describe a little of its wonder, its fascination, and its marvellous beauty. The winter months are, of course, the best, and it was in June last year on a glorious sunshiny day, with beautiful birds hovering over the docks of tho old Tofua, that we left Auckland bound for Fiji. On the fourth day the outlying islands came gradually info view, and in the evening tho lights of Suva appeared, and we were piloted through tlie treacherous reefs, a twinkling light our guide. ’Twas a thrilling moment, as there is only a few feet to spare on either side of flic ship —our home. Wo swung round and dropped anchor for the night, wondering what the morrow would bring forth, our first glimpse of tropical life. Be wore not disappointed. Early next morning wo drew alongside the wharf, and it was a scone 1 shall never forgot that met our gaze. Europeans in spotloss whites and sun helmets, Indians and natives in all manner of attire, most picturesciuo with their dark-brown skins and bare feet, and the inevitable javalava draped round tbcm skirt fashion.

We decided on a taxi drive, and at 9 o’clock set off. What a memorable drive it was—bananas, sugar canc, pine apples, bread fruit, and rice all growing in profusion, all colours and races of people, and the most wonderful foliage and flowers. Tho hibiscus hero is blood red and grows on quite big bushes. We arrived back for lunch laden with oranges, coconuts, and limes. The wate: melons arc delicious. The ship, by this time, is busily unloading her supplies, and the noise and confusion is bewildering, the blacks running about working like bees, tho ship's officers shouting, the machinery clanging, yet one stands glued to the spot, watching It seems a new world we arc in and a delightful one. Don’t miss tho European cemetery. Tho convicts look after it, and they do it well; it covers some acres, and is all lawn, surrounded by beautiful ian trees and foliage. The view is magnificent. One is reluctant to leave this spot. How many of our university men who have gone out to these Polynesian Islands to teach, govern, and help the natives arc interred here, never to return. There arc a tremendous number of taxis in Suva driven mainly by the Indians. They aro very cheap, which is a great blessing, as one invariable drives in these tropical regions. Beads are a great attraction here, dyed seeds and berries and tiny yellow shells. Tho native women and girls wander about the streets, their arms covered with these bright-coloured wares. One sees genuine tortoise-shell, cut and uncut, beautifully polished, and the pale pink coral beads can bo bought very cheaplv compared with prices in Now Zealand. The sugar industry is earned on chiefly by the Indians. After a day and a-half in Suva we left for Nuknlota, one ol tho Tongau group, which we reached in thirtysix liours. By this time the ship s passengers have become acquainted, and aro fast developing into a happy party. Deck tenuis is iu full swing, also clock golf and quoits, not to mention budding romances when the moon peeps out. . , _ , What a lovely spot this is! Cooler than Fiji. The cqcoanut palms look wonderfully attractive, and the sea is beautiful. There is a Queen of Nnknlofa. Tho Tonga ns are ranch cleaner than tho Fijians, they have straight hair and attractive ways, arc much like a good type of New Zealand Maori, and. arc very religious, We did a trip around tho island, and saw the living foxes and the famous blowholes. They are a wonderful sight, like a series of geysers for miles along the beach. Wc drank cocoanut milk, and found some mandarins by the roadside. The Tongans sing wonderfully. Wo went to church there, and they sang the ‘ Hallelujah Chorus with no accompaniment and no sign of a conductor. They have good schools and colleges, and the children speak English very well. Next afternoon we left for llaapoi, arriving in tlie early morning. Tho Totua lay out in tho stream, giving ijs a wonderful view of this charming island, covered with tropical growth .and one sees tlie most beautiful coral here. We went ashore in a launch, but it was only a short visit, .1h we were clue at Vauvau that afternoon Vauvau harbour was, to my mind, tho gem of the trip, with its clean-cut islands standing out like mushrooms with tiny sandy beaches, and simply covered with tropical growth and: waving palms. The blueness of tho water, perlcctly clear and very deep, all kinds c.i fish from the little silvor-and-blnck striped variety to the huge tortoise. We steamed slowdv up this glorious harbour perfectly content. Next morning wc had a launch picnic -to Swallow Cave. All the ship’s party wont, tho launch towing two of tho lifeboats. it was a very picturesque sight, everyone in tropical garb, with sunshade-! of every colour, and that marvellously bluo water against the whiteness of the boats completed the picture. After travelling for ''some distance in and out of these tiny islands, wo came to .Swallow 'Gave, and there was ( just room for tlie party to get in. J hero were thousands of swallow s, the water was very deep and clear, and the natives could bo plainly seen diving nglm to the bottom. The echoes were a most interesting feature. Tho ship's ball was held hero. It was a great novelty to us. Iho deck was beautifully draped with numbers ot Hags, whilst coloured lighting effects and waving palms completed the sotting. Quaint music Irom stringed instruments, played by native musicians, provided the atmosphere. W hat more could one desire, except an iceu supper, which arrived in due course. Next came Samoa. Hero again wo approached the wharf in small boats. Apia looked enchanting lying bathed in sunshine. Wo went for u swim at Malifa, tho roadside, on route was a paradise of llowers and tropical vegetation. The hibiscus is of many shades in Samoa, and the poinsettas aro huge and dark red in colour. The evening was gloriously moonlit, and w r o spent it on deck listening to tho natives singing, and to tlie swish, swish ct their paddles as they moved noiselessly about in their little catamorans. AVo spent jjcxt morning visiting \ ailima, tho homo of Robert Louis Stevenson, also his tomb, which is at tho top of a hill. It was a very strenuous climb, but wo worn well rewarded, not only by seeing his resting place, but by a wonderful view straight out to sea. Then you must see the model village and have the fun of bargaining with the natives for their wares al. manner of mats, tappa cloth, and nasketware. The Samoans are a hne looking race, .tall and well built, and the younger women are very attractive. . Wo were all sad leaving Apia, lor wo were homeward bound. Next aitcriieou we passed “ Tincan ” .Island. Several of tho natives here swim out

for the mail, which is sealed in a tin can—heneo its name. There was one white man amongst them, who climbed on board for messages, and he made a superb dive when leaving. Then Suva once more, with hei twinkling light to guide ns in. We felt quite at home in Fiji on our second visit; wo spent a lot of time in. then wonderful sea baths, and visited evcr> kind of shop imaginable, collecting bits of brass, beads, and other treasures to bring home. The Grand Pacific Morris wonderfully situated, and you an served by quietd'ooted Indians on largT shady verandahs overlooking the harbour. Their hospital is built on tropical lines with its roof kitchen, and is very up to dale. They train native nurses for the outlying islands, ami their own Fijian doctors. Meanwhile the ship is loading bananas and produce for New Zealand, there is a collection of Government officials, traders, and ship’s officers supervising the cargo, while the clatter of the natives and'machinery makes a veritable hive of industry. One leaves those Islands reluctantly, with their mass of colour and mystic charm, and as we approach Auckland and see white linen and coverings replaced by navy blue and cretonne, one finds it hard to realise it has not all been a very wonderful dream.