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THE GARDEN

WOVK t FOIt TOB WEEK

SEASONABLE WORK THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Asparagus beds are now coming into full use, consequently cutting should bo carried on regularly, as growth demands. Cut every head as it appears, irrespective of size. Do not leave some because they are thin' with the hope that they will grow thicker, for they will not. The longer they are left the worse they become. But this is not the reason why all should be cut. It is bad if some are left to grow away into top, the cutting of good young asparagus will soon cease. Cut every one as it becomes fit up to about Christmas, then stop cutting and let them all grow away unchecked to make strong tops to build up good crowns for next season. Artichokes: Stir the earth well up about them—something like moulding up potatoes. They will be all the better for it. Sea kale beds should be cleared or litter, and all tops that are showing seed heads should be cut hard back on each crown. By this means fine double crowns will form for next season. Do not allow any to go to seed, as this weakens the crowns. Cut the seed heads off as soon as seen. Rhubarb is liable to send up seed heads at this season. They should all be cut off as soon \ as they appear. Roots may still be divided and planted. Seeds may also bo sown. Sow broadcast. and leave them in the seed bed until next season. Broad beans and French and runner beans may still be sown. Celery may be pricked out from early-sown seed. Good practice in pricking out celery is to tread < a patch of ground very hard. On this spread 3in of rich soil. Prick out the seedlings 2in apart, and grow on. When strong enough to plant cut out each plant to the hard under surface with ball of roots and earth attached, and plant into welLprepared and deeplydug trenches. Then you may look for really good celery; that is provided the plants are kept growing and are not checked for want of water. Peas may be sown for succession. The tall main crop kinds are best for this. Earth up potatoes before the tops become long and straggly, or they will be injured in the process of earthing. Main crop ■ kinds may still be planted. Carrots should have the ground well stirred about them, as nothing benefits them more; in fact, this frequent stirring of soil applies not only to carrots but to all other crops of that kind. Sow beet, also silver beet. This latter may be used as spinach. Take advantage of dull days to plant out cabbages , and cauliflowers. THE FRUIT GARDEN The growth of fruit trees is in full activity now, and the health as well as the symmetry of the trees depends to some degree on judicious and timely disbudding and stopping. Particularly is this the case with male fruit trees such as peaches and apricots. The leading shoots of these should be tied or nailed -'into place for shape, allowing quite 6in 6f space between each leading shoot, or it may be to fill in vacant spaces. Then all the remaining shoots or breast wood should be pinched back to two eyes. The young fruit of apricots and peaches may be thinned out to one or at most two on each spur. With apricots it is a good practice to leave two on each spur until all dangers of frost are past, Then reduce to one where really good fruit is desired. Apples, pears, plums, and cherries on espaliers and walls should bo divested of all surplus shoots, and useful shoots trained in as above advised. Standard trees should be looked ovar to remove or thin out overcrowded or misplaced ' shoots. Do not allow growths to come away in bunches. Thin out to one on each spur. Strawberries are rapidly coming into bloom, consequently provision should be made to cover the soil between the rows with stable litter or clean lawn grass clippings —anything of that nature. This will keep the fruit dean and at the same time act as a stimulant and prevent evaporation. During very dry weather water the plant whilst they are in bloom. The fruiting will be much finer, both in quantity and quality. THE LIQUID MANURE TUB OR TANK. There is every indication of a dry summer, and in anticipation of this every one who loves his garden should be provided with a manure tub. This may be made easily, and inexpensively. An old tar barrel, either standing on the surface or sunk into the ground, will do. The barrel should have about one-third of sheep droppings or wellrotted cow dung ; or both mixed, and the other two-thirds with water (pond or rain water preferred). It should be stirred up as the liquid is used up At first it may be a little _ strong, so dilute it with water until it is about the colour of ale or good tea. Do not apply it too strong. The best time of all to feed plants or apply the liquid is during showery weather or when the ground is moist. In all cases give sufficient to reach the roots of the plants, and more often than once a week THE FLOWER GARDEN As the narcissi go out of flower and it is desired to plant other flowering plants to. keep or make things bright later on, the bulbs may be lifted and heeled in in rows in some other part of the garden to finish off the ripening for next planting ■ season. The kitchen garden is a good place for lining them out. 1 Those who wish to increase the size of the bulb and to give fine flowers for next season, will do well to cut off all flowers as early as possible, and not let them go to seed. The seeding of plants is most weakening, and never should be allowed except where seed be required for sowing. The work of bedding out may be carried on, but if the weather continues dry, watering must be resorted to to keep the plants alive. Keep the hoe and le in frequent use to destroy weeds in beds and borders. Mow and roll lawn and clip grass verges to give, a neat and tidy finish to the whole. Clip hedges and hoe and rake gravel walks ANSWERS • ** Tar ’’ asks how to make tar water. —lt is very easily made. All one has to do 1 is to put about one quart of tar Into a kerosene tin* fill the tin

with water (hot water preferred), stir well, and let it settle and stand for a few hours, then use the clear water without mixing up the tar. It may be made stronger by adding more tar without injury to plants providing it is allowed to settle well before use. More water may he added after drawing off the first lot for a second or more applications. “Polyanthus.”—(l) The dry weather and probably want of sufficient nourishment are the causes of your polyanthus withering. Deep digging, with plenty of good manure would have given better results and made them last longer. . (2) Tim best way to use lime for the destruction of slugs is to slake some fresh shell lime. After slaking place the fresh, hot lime dust in a piece of common scrim. Gather up the ends or corners of the scrim, then go round in the cool of tho evening (a damp evening preferred), lightly shako the scrim so tnat tho fine lime falls all over the ground where, slugs abound. Repent this a few evenings, and you will soon get rid of the slugs. I have not seen a slug in my garden for years. “Avoca.” say you have been feeding your roses with a dipper full ‘ to' each rose of artificial manure (nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia). You ask if I think this is too much. It depends upon the strength you uso it. One tablespoonful of each in a kerosene tin of water, or what is better, liquid manure water, will be strong enough. Harm may easily bo done to plants by tbe careless use of these chemicals. Two or three applications of these during the growing season is quite sufficient. .Use when the ground is moist. H.C. ANCIENT MIGNONETTE Lord Bacon, in his essay on ‘Gardens,’ says that because the breath of flowers is far sweeter in the air “whence it goes and comes, like tho warbling of music than in the hand, therefore nothing is more fit for the delight than to know something of the flowers that do best perfume tho air.” Among tho simplest and sweetest of flowers is the fragrant Mignonette. It is a native of Egypt, and was introduced into France about the middle of the eighteenth century, where it at once became very pop ’ .r under the name of Mignonette, or “Little Darling.” It was not long before it became almost as popular in England One writer describing London in 1790, writes that even in the lanes and alleys were seen small boxes and pots in i which the fragrant plant was grow- 1 ing. In France at the present time tho plant is cultivated in largo qualities for use in tho manufacture of perfumes. Some botanists note the fact that the blossoms always follow the course of tho sun, turning at sunrise to the east, and in the evening facing the west.' EFFECTIVE COLOURS Where there is a bed of pink toned roses, nothing is so effective as a bor- | dcring of nepeta mussini (catmint), . writes “Lorna,” in the ‘Manawatu I Times.’ When the border is gay with ' roses and the edging of catmint also a j mass of bloom, framing the roses with its grey, aromatic foliage and lavendercoloured flowers, the effect is charming. Looked at from a distance, tho subdm 1 hazy colour effect produced by the lavender and pink is particularly pleasing to the eye. Another c’ arming I and effective display can be had on a stretch of sloping ground by planting' dianthus deltoides Cone of the dwarf alpine pinks) and catmint, broken at intervals by a few well-placed large ' stones, or pieces of rock. Catmint is a ] most accommodating plant, seeming to be at home in almost any position, but j it certainly loves sunshine. It makes a fine subject for the top of a dry wall, elevated positions on the rock garden, or used as an edging for ] borders. Its long flowering period enhances its value for all garden work. ' There are other varieties of catmint but none so pretty and useful as nepeta mussini. Cuttings root readily in spring or. autumn, or whole clumps may be lifted and divided, and they quickly form bushy plants. SEARCH FOR ORCHIDS The orchid trade is an unknown factor in our dominion, bub in the Old Country it is something to be reckoned with. Orchids, like precious diamonds, are very beautiful and greatly sought after by the wealthy fblk of England. Dr Cecil S. Garnett, ! the horticultural scientist, has just j left Liverpool for the mighty Amazon I River. He is going as leader of what I is termed tho Orchidological Research , Expedition at the instance of some societies and persons interested in : orchid growth. Dr Garnett said that he proposed to tiavcl in the Hildebrand to Manaos, 1,000 miles up the Amazon, and then his party would take canoes j and go about 1,000 miles further up I the river towards Venezuela. They | hoped to find probably different new | kinds of orchids. The best and most ; valuable orchids were found growing on-the tops of trees at least 100 ft high. Ho hoped to bring back with him about 1,000 plants. PARASITE ON CODLIN iOTH It is announced that Dr Stanley E. Flanders, entomologist at the California Citrus Experimental Station, has discovered an effective parasite on the i codlin moth. This is Tricbogamma, a 1 tiny wasp-like insect that deposits its , 'eggs inside the eggs of other insects, thereby ensuring a food supply for its voung. Any egg laid in the opon_ be- i comes a prey to this friendly little insect. It was while employed as entomologist for the Saticoy Walnut Growers’ Association that Dr Flanders has developed a method of making the insect lay its eggs in captivity, in the eggs of some common host, usually a gram moth. The eggs are shipped m cartons of 30,000 and liberated where needed. This is another achievement to bo credited to entomological research. |

Qrar emlx&Qfeaeb « wefiHamra gavdenuv, win b® glad to answer which must In received sot later than Tuesday of each week. Soy fib!# apfamm moot be handed in to the office before 2 pjn. on Friday.

DORMANT WEED SEEDS IN THE SOIL

350 MILLION POPPIES TO THE ACRE. Dr Winifred Brenchley read a paper before the agriculture section ot the British Association at Capo Town on the dormancy of weed seeds_ in the soil as affected by cultivation and fallowing. Numerical estimations were being made of the effect of cultivation _ and fallowing on the number of viable weed seeds in the soil of Broadbalk permanent wheatfields, Rothamstead. Counts were made of the number of seedlings derived from numerous measured samples taken annually after harvest. Excluding poppy, the number of living seed on unfallowed land ranged from 27 to 62 millions per acre, according to the manuring, and poppies rose to over 250 million per acre with complete fertilisers. Some weeds were unaffected by the manuring, but others were definitely encouraged or discouraged by various combinations of manures. The reresponse of different species of weeds to two years consecutive fallow varied considerably Some species, as Alopecurus agrestis (black bent) and Polygonum " aviclare (knotgrass) were almost eliminated, whereas Papaverspp (poppy) was only reduced to about 46 per cent, of the original number, and a few others were very little affected. This was due to -I be varying lengths of time that buried seeds naturally remained dormant even when they were brought under conditions favourable to germination. Consequently, fallowing might prove economic for heavy infestations of some weeds as black bent, but for poppy and others the clearance would not be good enough to justify the expense. The times of maximum germination of weed seed showed a. marked periodicity, most species having a strange preference for starting into growth in either the autumn or the winter quarter, comparatively few coming up in the spring or summer. Land should therefore be broken up as soon as possible after harvest, and kept on the move in order to obtain a maximum of reduction of buried weed seeds, whether the land was to be cropped or kept under fallow. The experiments were being continued to determine the after-effects of fallowing when tho field was - back under crop., PEONIES At one time peonies were in every garden; now one seldom sees them. Formerly, too, there were only the'old red and white varieties. The flowers of up-to-date varieties are exquisite, the colouring in many of them being glorious (says the gardening contributor of tho ‘Dominion’). These lovely new hybrid varieties are every bit as hardy as the old ones. There is, however, a fairly general idea that peonies are hard to establish and to grow. They are not, provided they arj planted carefully, and given the soil they like. There is only one drawback to growing these delightful plants, and that is that they must be liberally treated. It is probably because so many plants ara starved, and are therefore unable to grow or flower well, that the idea ot their being difficult has arisen. The soil for peonies must be deeply dug and if well-rotted manure can he bad, plenty of it should be dug in. Well-decayed garden rubbish, however, seems to satisfy these greedy subjects, provided there is plnty of it. It should be well mixed with the soil to a depth of two feet.

When the plants are being moved they should be well watered in, and should be kept supplied with water until they arc established. If newlyplanted clumps are allowed to become dry they get a nasty set-back, for this reason some gardeners consider it best to move peonies in the autumn. I have found spring planting quite good provided watering is thoroughly attended to. A mulch of well-rotted manure or garden rubbish should bo spread over the plants as soon as they are planted, and water should be given regularly all through the growing season. Once established they may be left for many years, and every year the plants give a wonderful display of blooms, pro. vided they are not allowed to starve. Established plants of herbaceous peonies are just sending up their leaves, and a mulch of well-decayed manure should be spread round them. It realty repays one to try to get this mulch for them. Otherwise good well-decayed stuff from the bottom of the rub bis heap must be used, and then it is a good plan to carefully take away a few inches of soil from about the plants and to replace it with the new soil from the rubbish heap. Give the plants a good watering directly after doing this. Weak liquid manure should be given once a week, after a good watering, as soon as buds begin to show. Among habaceous peonies are many lovely varieties. Caroline Allain is pale pink with cream centre, Couronne d’Or has white and yellow petals with carmine edges. Felix Crousse has huge, double, red flowers with ruby centre. Irandiilora Superba is flesh pink, and Marie Crousse soft salmon pink. Mad Calot is pale pink with deeper centre. Reevesiana plena is a very line rose pink self, and Rosea Elegans is a good dark rose pink. Solfaterre has yellow flowers with pale lemon centre. Sarah Bernhardt has enormous brilliant pink flowers. Asa Gray, too, has enormous flowers, and they are pale lilac in colour.

Tre peonies (Peony Moutan) are already in flower in some gardens. The flowers of these are white, red, or pink, and are very large. Tree peonies are also very hardy, and once established in deeply dug and well-enviched soil, flower freely every year without any special attention. Provided they are given a deep, cool root-run, and plenty of food, peonies will grow and flower well* in any soil, and in a sunny or semi-shaded position. The flowers make splendid cut flowers, and are very handsome when arranged with their own leaves in a tall vase or large bowl.

HOLLAND'S FLOWER LAND NEW AUCTION METHODS. Less than a century ago there was an enormous lake; a useless expanse of water, south of Haarlem. It had no outlet to the sea, and the only purpose it has ever been known to serve was that during Spanish predominance hundreds of Dutch burghers were mercilessly drowned in it. The lake was eventually drained, and now a large area of fertile land provides a living for thousands of people.

Some twenty years ago it was found that the 'soil in tho northern part of this new territory was particularly fit for the cultivation of flowers. In the last ten years the demand for Dutch flowers has greatly increased, and Aalsmeer has organised itself to cope with new conditions. The result has been that its trade in flowers has improved by leaps and’bounds. A regular bus service was instituted between Aalsraeer and the aerodrome of Schiphol, where the international air lines converge; and in this -way flowers sold in Holland at 9 o’clock in tho morning are exhibited in the great shops of London, Paris, and Berlin early in the afternoon. Even Nice, which not so long ago used to send its flowers to the rest of Western Europe, now receives a daily share from: tho Low Countries. At early dawn tho flower-gathering begins in the fields round about Aalsmeer; loaded high, the carts return to town, and by 8 o’clock the immense auction halls are packed—an unforgettable sight. Now that the season is at its heignt there is seldom a free place on the buyers’ ranks. Small street traders from Amsterdam sit next to representatives of the greatest export houses. They have all paid their deposit of a “ rijksdaalar ” (about 4s 2d) that entitles them to a numbered seat for the day. The selling system followed in this flower-land is original and efficient. The entire side-wall of the auction room is occupied by a disc, with the figures 1 to 100 written around its edge. A hand moves slowly from 100 downwards, and as soon as it reaches a figure that—in tho estimation of tho buyer—represents the purchase value of the lot on offer, that buyer presses a button fixed in front of his place. Immediately the hand stops, and a little coloured lamp glows up, showing the number of the tribune seat whose occupier bought the flowers. There can be no • misunderstanding on tho part of the auctioneer. Several buyers may press their buttons almost simultaneously. But one must have been quicker, if only by a fraction of a second, than the others, and the machine will infallibly point him out as the buyer, Tho auction halls, forming the centre of this prosperous little town, are super-modern. Three times a week auctions of plants in pots take place. To facilitate tho transportation and avoid tho trouble of discharging and reloading these thousands of pots, two canals, each about_ eight yards wide, were dug, connecting the Aalsmeer and Haarlemmermeer polder waterways with the auction halls, where tho flat-docked ships now enter —merely for a change of ownership of their cargoes! Aalsmcer, from a small, forgotten village, has become tho centre of an ovor-growing world trade. Last year it sent, more than £IOO,OOO worth of flowers to various countries, and it is expected that the total of this season’s exports will considerably surpass that figure. \ CARNATIONS Next to roses, carnations are the most popular flowers with most people, combining as they do variety of colours, sweet scent, good lasting powers, . and long stiff stems. The plants are thoroughly hardy as far as cold and wind arc concerned, but constant wet or mugg weather, conditions are liable to bring on mildew and other fungoid diseases. Overhead dustings with lime, wood asl., or sulphur will help very largely to keep these trouble;- in abeyance. Young plants which were put out in the autumn should be commencing to push up strong growth, and to ensure a sturdy plant the leading growth should be stopped This is done by pulling out the centre, which causes side growths to push out. Hold the plant firmly with the left hand, and with tho right hand give a sharp pull to tho centre growth, which should come away cleanly. Old carnation plants should be gone over and all dead or diseased leaves be removed or burnt. Loosen up the soil round the plants and work in some lime and wood ashes. The following is recommended as a good manure for carnations when they commence flowering. Thoroughly mix five parts superphosphate, two parts dried blood manure, "and one part sulphate of potash Use one ounce of the mixture tc. eacli gallon of water and apply once a fortnight, first watering the plants with plain water. - BLUE FLOWERING PLANTS There is a fascination about blue flowers not common to all colours (writes “ Lorna,” in the ‘ Manawatu Daily Times ’). The true blue rose, carnation and dahlia have yet to appear, but there is quite a long list of good blue plants which enable us_ to have bold patches of blue in various settings from early spring till late autumn. In the semi-wild garden the first blue effects of tho year are obtained from such small bulbous plants as chionodoxas, scillas, grape, and muscari hyacinths. Anemone apennina and anemone hepatica brighten the rock garden, while forget-me-nots and blue primroses adorn the shady spots and fringe our shrubberies. In spring bedding schemes, blue violas and the blue-toned aubretia are used with charming effects.

Turning to the larger herbaceous borders, blue predominates during the

month of November, when blue irises, lupins in various shades of blue to purple are to be seen. In the blue garden proper the stately delphinium holds pride of place, accompanied by the intense blue of the anchusas, forming an effective background for tho many shades of blue to purple noticeable among the iris family. Linium peienne, too, spreads its dainty blooms at this time. Later the blue of the scabiosa and many of the campanulas fill the borders with the same hue and tho stately monkshood is one of the joys of autumn, together with the newer Indian, poppies (meconopsis). Where larger subjects are grown the blue of the African lily (agapanthus) _ and tho hydrangeas are a welcome sight, BED HOT POKERS ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. The Torch Lilies, or “Red Hot Pokers,” are botanically known as Kniphofias, after Kniphof, a professor of. medicine at Efurt m the eighteenth century. Some authorities call them Tritomas, an older name, but certainly less cumbersome. These plants are becoming more popular every year, as it has been discovered that _ the flowers are very useful for decorative purposes. The older species were rather coarse for this work, but lately a raco_ has been evolved which produces mediumsized blooms in great variety. They are mostly summer and autumn blooming plants, and as the flowers last well when cut and placed in water they lend themselves to the decoration of large halls, churches, etc., at a season when many other flowers do. not last on account of hot weather. The plants are very easy to grow, and are effective in shrubberies or near tree when given a little attention in the way of cultivation during the first season or two. It is not necessary to divide and replant the clumps every season, and as long as they flower well they need not be disturbed. It is, however, a good plan to cut off the foliage in winter and to clean out the dead leaves, etc., which are likely to become a harbour for snails and slugs. A good sprinkling of lime at that season helps to get rid of these pests. Apart from this treatment very little cultivation is necessary, though a good watering occasionally in dry weather helps to improve their flowering. A good stiff soil suits them best, but they are not fastidious, in that respect. A few of the best kinds are as follow: —Kniphofia Nohilis.— A very strong grower bearing massive spikes of blooms in. midsummer. Five feet high. —K. Goldelse.— This is a medium-sized special, growing about 3ft high, and bearing in early summer a number of spikes of bloom of a golden yellow colour. • —K. Ensifolia.— This is also a yellow-flowered variety with large, handsome spikes of bloom. It is also valuable from the fact that it blooms in midwinter when flowers are scarce. It is, however, only suitable for tho mild districts. Where heavy frosts are experienced tho flower spikes are often destroyed before they have properly developed, —K. Nelsoni.— For small gardens this is about the best time to grow. It makes grasslike and produces small flame coloured spikes of bloom on stems about 15in in length. It flowers during autumn, and the flowers are very suitable for cutting. Tho nurserymen’s catalogues contain a great many other varieties, all worth a trial in gardens where space can be devoted to them.

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Bibliographic details

Evening Star, Issue 20316, 26 October 1929, Page 28

Word Count
4,602

THE GARDEN Evening Star, Issue 20316, 26 October 1929, Page 28

THE GARDEN Evening Star, Issue 20316, 26 October 1929, Page 28