TRAVEL TALK

Evening Star, Issue 20310, 19 October 1929, Page 2

TRAVEL TALK

[Written by the llev. H. 0. Fenton* for the ‘Evening Star. J -*o. u. ' i Leaving .Bordeaux, my next ’ stopping place, without any regret .1 set off on my last lap before reaching Spain. This time, it was'by means ot a modern electric tram. The difference in comfort between an electric, train and oiie propelled ■ by? steam • can only be appreciated by those, who have travelled in each on consecutive' days. The difference lies in the fact that in the modern method of travel bn© does not have to dig lumps of coal and junk’s of grit out bfone’s eyes' and ears. At Bordeaux 1 had arrived looking like a chimney sweep On the train was a Spaniard who had Jived in Paris for some months, and so had acquired the language. He was now studying English by means ; of a book entitled ‘ How to speak English in ten days.’ I had a Spanish phrase book' with me. but I'am bound to say his book, made in Barcelona,; knocked, mine sideways. I gave him a long lesson in English, and lie increased, my knowledge-of Spanish C should hot by . right have ' used ther word “increased,” as I then knew just about five words' only of that language. It is often fun to have to _ carry on ■conversation by , means of signs, buff it has its disadvantages, as 1 was tor find out when “I went through the Customs at San Sebastien, and siilw sequently at lunch at the same place.The Customs officer did hot pay any attention to my suit case, but he had never before come across a reflex camera. T had to open -the shutter to convince him that its interior contained nothing in the way of bombs,; or of Soviet literature; Then ho began himself to investigate one of tho changing-boxes, but I told him than it contained live plates';and that ’iho must not monkey in daylight with soli* gradation panchromatics, : whose spjeed was marked H. and D. 700. Although his English; was less than my Spanish, he got the hang of my remarks and promiced his chalk. I am sure ho murmured lieneath Ins breath th© Spanish equivalent for “ these mad. Eliiglish.” . ... ; Lunch was notable for the amount of garlic used in its preparation. Even a deaf and dumb worker in. a sardino factory could not have failed to notico the difference in the atmosphere. And, of course, captains of boats in the Bay of Biscay, who are steering tor a port in which there is a sardine factory, use their noses only, and never bother about their compasses. Thai* was the first time i had - ever known garlic used in such quantities as to be objectionable—with one exception that was .a,lso the last ob it in Spain. The exception, was , that same night at dinner.' I not unnaturally began to wonder what I should find to live upon, since next day showed- me very plainly that little Mary and garlic were not going to dwell together , joyfully in unity. Apart from that experience food was all that could .bo desired throughout the trip. If you pronounce it “ Be-bow-oh ”• you will approximate tho correct rendering in Spanish of the town spelled Bilbao, which town a speedy electric train reaches from San Sebastien iu about three hours, traversing in its course a large part of the beautiful valley of the Deva. Bilbao has canalised its river, turned itself into an excellent port, and is the headquarters of the iron or© industry. It is correspondingly an unattractive town. Tho large English colony came, looked at it, and passed by on th© other side. Having thus acted ■so prudently as ever did the seven, wise virgins, they settled down at Portulagette, some miles away oil the-coast, and pretend they are living in Brighton, or possibly Bournemouth. French is rarely spoken iu Spain, as 1 discovered when I went into tho bank to cash a cheque. I inquired of the cashier, “ Parley-vous Francais, Monsieur?,” to which ,he made answer in the negative. Taking my cheque* he disappeared, for a couple of minutes, and then returned and remarked pleasantly, “Why the dickens didn’t you speak in English?”

Perhaps the one really likeable thing about Bilbao 3s~its senoritas. I don’t think in any part of the world have I seen so many charming girls. Jit matter of dress they outdid Paris completely. They were just as chic as Parisians, and they added a touch of their own to their somewhat longer dresses, No need for them to paint the lily. Their complexions were as Nature made them at a time’ when Nature was in a particularly beneficent mood. One might go further, and suggest that she had been extending in the way ofi artistry per previous best attempts. ' Of course, I ant nob suggesting that the daughters of Bilbao never use lipstick. They are not unaware of the effect produced by cherry lips under a black mantilla. But I doubt if they fully realise what a becoming headgear a mantilla can be. If they did they would quickly wear out thin looking glasses, and every photographer in, the town would retire at the age of thiry-five with a marble palace and a llolls lloyce. Yes, the Senoritas nearly made up for: Bilbao’s atrocious weather and abominable galic. They might have completely atoned for: (a) If they could have understood my Spanish, (b) If I could have understood their English, (c) If both of us could have spoken French. Why ever did not my Sponsors .see that I was instructed-’ in Spanish as well as in the decalogue I (To be Continued.)