MILFORD SOUND

Evening Star, Issue 20117, 6 March 1929, Page 3

MILFORD SOUND

[Contributed by Edmund Anscombc.] Everybody who visits Fiordland writes something about it, if not to the Press, then to someone. This is because those who have been privileged to see this wonderland cannot help doing so. I found the run through to Te Anau from Dunedin much easier than from Dunedin to Queenstown or Pembroke. Upon pulling up at Lake To Anau Hotel the first thing that impresses one is the xiridc taken in the place by the proprietor. How pleasant it is, after travelling through so many of our uninteresting New Zealand villages, to find green lawns and flower bods at an inland hotel. It is an assurance that within one will find a home away from homo. To Anau is undoubtedly destined to become one of New Zealand’s most popular tourist resorts. The lake is beautiful, and the mountains beyond magnificent. Close by the hotel is what may be called a natural golf links, which, with little expense, could be made very fine. Then To Anau is an angler’s paradise, and 1 understand is the only place in the Southern Hemisphere where Atlantic salmon are to found. It is said that those are the best fighters of all fish. The early morning sail up the lake to Glade House is very enjoyable, and after a cup of tea ruc-sacs arc strapped on, and the fun begins. To walk to Milford is just one long feast of the finest Nature has to offer, and the glorious vistas which break upon one at intervals are magnificent indeed; but it is upon reaching Milford Sound that every globe trotter is spellbound. No mere words can express one’s delight at such a wondrous picture as opens up upon entering this—one of the world’s most glorious scenic; pictures. I have not seen the whole world by any means, but when I think back ot experiences in the Canadian and American Rockies, the beautiful maple forests of Vermont, the scenery of England, Scotland, Ireland, Austria, or Switzerland, and also many other countries which 1 have visited, 1 give to Milford and the other Sounds of New Zealand (including, of course, the Southern Alps) the premier place for real grandeur, it is a pity Byron never saw New Zealand. Byron loved the Rhine and also Switzerland, but what inspiring thoughts he would have put into words—pictures of the wondrous beauty of New Zealand’s mountains, rivers, lakes, waterfalls, and trees. Here the Master Sculptor has wrought upon a grander scale and lias modelled work with unparalleled beauty. The lakes and waterfalls add to- this beauty; but when it came to tlie embellishment of the nigged ground work, what indescribable loveliness and artistry are to be found in the various shades of plant life! Stand upon any prominence and look down upon the light shades of the ribbon woods and the richness of the bronze greens of the great beech trees, and here and there the glorious fern trees, and anyone who has seen the pine-clad mountains of other countries must give the palm to the beautiful and varied foliage so richly distributed here, and especially in the Sounds, where trees and shrubs grow almost to tho water’s edge.

Tho Mount Cook country is more to be compared with that of Switzerland, but that of tire Sounds district is just something apart from, and outrivals, anything anywhere for real scenery. America knows, how to sell its scenic wonders, such as the Grand Canyon of Arizona, the Yosemito Valley, tho Yellowstone National Park, Niagara Falls, etc., but 1 hare always said that were tho glow-worm grotto in the United States the whole world would know about it and hear about it all the time. One cannot imagine what wonderful advertisements would he written and broadcasted if the Sounds and Southern Lakes were located in that country. With accommodation houses such as one finds at To Anau, and especially the up-to-date hostel at Milford, and in such capable hands ns those of Mr G. H. Long at Milford, and Mr E. C. Covan at To. Anau, the overseas visitors will have little to complain of. What development will take place in the future to popularise Milford Sound and the West Coast generally it is difficult to foresee, but to my mind immediate works should bo put in hand to reach this district, and so enable a greater number of Now Zealanders and overseas visitors to enjoy this, the world’s wonderland. When on tho crest of M'Kinnon Pass .1 said: “ Why not tunnel through this to enable those who do not wish to traverse it twice over to walk through it, and cut down the walk by several miles of the most strenuous part of the journey? A tunnel sufficiently large to allow a [jack horse through is all that is necessary. Again, I predict it will not be long before one will he able to hire a pony and ride from Glade House to Milford Sound Hostel. J have heard many say that to go over this track in any other way than walking would spoil tho trip. I agree it is a wonderful walk, but to ray way of thinking anything that can be done to enable more people to enjoy the pleasures of the other side should be done, and as speedily as possible. The track, especially that over the pass, will always be there for the tram per. If something is not done on the above lines it may not he long before tourists are taken up from To Auau in a pas-senger-carrying hydroplane and landed in the stream alongside Milford Hostel in under three-quarters of an hour. Those who desire to walk over, or vice versa, could, of course, do so. Switzerland is an example of what development will do; in the old days a few dozen enjoyed its mountain passes, whereas to-day this enjoyment is shared by tens of thousands. Onr trip was over the track to Milford, and thence by boat to Doubtful Sound, visiting George Sound en route, walking over to .Lake Manapouri, and by boat to Murrell’s accommodation house on the lake shore, and on to Te Anau by service coach to pick up our car there. In the Sounds and Southern Lakes areas we have a scenic asset which should ho sold to tens of thousands every year; in tin's class of business we can sell the goods over and over again, and still have them to sell to the tourist as the years roll on. The North island has many wonderful scenic attractions, foremost of which is, in my opinion, the unique glowworm grotto at AVaitoino. To give the thermal regions full publicity is, of course, as it should be, but it should not ho done at tho expense of what this dominion has to offer in the south I have heard Americans say: •‘.lint yon can see hob springs, geysers, and caves anywhere.” lie that as it may, they cannot anywhere in all tho world see anything to equal tho glow-worm grotto. Many complaints are hoard that the tourist offices in the north clo not enthuse as might be expected about the scenic attractions of the south. Two Americans informed us that they had taken out their bookings in the north, and that Milford Sound was not mentioned to them, I would suggest that’ before this season closes, the heads of the tourist offices in the north be given a trip first to Manapouri, then to Te Anau, and on to Milford Sound by way of the track, and then by boat to the Bluff, visiting at least George, Doubtful, and Dusky Sounds,,

and also Preservation Inlet en route; while in the south they might be shown some of the glories of Stewart Island, returning, of course, by way of Queenstown, Pembroke, and Mount Cook. After such a trip, any man would, I submit, bo unsuited for such work as adviser to the tourist, if ho did not become a real enthusiastic l - “ booster ” for the scenic attracions in South New Zealand. Just a word to future travellers to Mi” vd. To me it seems absurd to walk tho Te Anau-Milford track both ways when there are such glories in store for one in George and Doubtful Sounds. The walk from Doubtful to Manapouri, although spoken of by many as very hard, was found by our party to he easily negotiated, and since it can be done in one clay, the round trip is certainly tho one to be recommended. Even returning to Te Anau by the George Sound route would give the visitor a round trip with new sights all the time,.