WOMAN’S WORLD

Evening Star, Issue 19776, 28 January 1928, Page 21

WOMAN’S WORLD

[By DIANA.]

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CHRISTMAS CELEBRATIONS LATEST FASHION FOIBLES [Written by Cynthia, for the ‘ livening Star.’] December 8. I am writing this the first week in December, so you can imagine that the Christmas rush is on badly, and will be for the next fortnight. I suppose the whole world where the English-speaking races congregate is doing the same thing. Christmas is essentially a country festival, so the trains out of London are beginning to be very full, for all who have country homes at this season betake themselves off there for Christmas, and in dozens of old English houses the festive season will be kept. House parties are # many, and London is generally rather empty of the sporting section of society, who revel in the old world atmosphere of holly, mistletoe, Christmas parties, roast beef, and plum pudding, hunt balls, and special meets of the nouuds, when avery jolly time is prepared, and everyone tries to be carefree and full of good-fellowship and new resolutions. I think I mentioned that the Royal party at Sandringham this year was not to include Princess Mary and her boys, but now I hear Queen Mary particularly wants her three grandchildren to be with her, so the arrangements will be altered, and Princess Mary and her little folk will spend Christmas at Sandringham after all. The Duke and Duchess of York and Princess Elizabeth will all be there, so the little cousins will be able to fraternise, and there will be merry times .or Them with a wonderful Christmas tree and other diversions. The Prince of Wales will be of the party, which will bring joy to the hearts of the children, for he adores kiddies. TOC H CELEBRATION.

I think the most wonderful event of the week took place at the Albert Hall. It was the celebration of the anniversary of Toe H, that® blessed home of rest (Talbot House, at Poperinghe) which such hundreds of our fighting men have reason to gratefully remember to this day. The Prince lit forty new lamps, which represent' fnsh centres, anti made an eloquent appeal lor money to keep these refuges of comfort going.

“ Don’t let your lights burn low. Your light is sorely neecLfi, and never more than now.” These words ■were uttered by the Prince whon he broadcast an appeal on behalf of Toe H. That appeal was made in connection with the twelth birthday festival cf the organisation which began, during the war, in Poperinghe, ant the Albert Hall “guest night” was a part of it. The Prince, who wore Die Toe H, tie, flannels, and a blazer, was accorded a joyous greting when he arrived; in fact, the cheering was wonderful—and his appeal was for a scheme for an endowment fund capable rf producing an annual income of £IO,OGU. Previously he had taken part in a service of thanksgiving at Westminster Abey, which was so crowded that an “ overflow ” gathering took place in St. Margaret’s. It was all very simple and very touching, and I feel the opinion of that eminent soldier the Earl of Cavan worth quoting. In writing about the movement no tells us how ho first visited Toe H on Good Friday of 1916, and found such an atmosphere of complete peace which “ I shall never forget.” “A little later,” he says, “while still commanding the 15th Corps,' 1 went again, and, kneeling between a sapper and driver of the R.A.S.C., received the communion in that same chamber. Tho help it was to tired men who were supplying the Ypres salient with food ami ammunition is indescribable. The splendid moral of the fine old war song ‘ Pack Up Your Troubles ’ was, indeed, fostered there, and such a spirit of comradeship, too, end aacn seemed to want to help the other to ‘ pack up their troubles.’ Then came the armistice,. and soon afterwards ‘Tubby ’ Clayton suggested Toe H should be kept as a going concern in London. I own, frankly, that I was sceptical, and said so. 1 did not realise tho grip that Toe H had on the Army.” THE FASHION IN BEAUTY. Every season as it comes round brings some new ideas as to beauty, and the really fashionable lirst-in-the-flight belle to to-day finds it costs more in time and money than she cares, to own up to. Anyway, fashion is fashion, and its crazes, whims, and notions will never die, that is one sure thing- You have to possess patience and a good long purse to keep in lino with it . these days. Once it was only considered necessary to have one’s hair shampooed and waved the day before a party; now every half-hour that can be spared before dinner daily is devoted _to the perfection of one’s coiffure. “ You will not wear your hat, madam,” ’s the common remark after tho waves, lines, and curls have been finished by the hairdresser. If you do you are shown how to start your hat over your nose almost, and gently take it back over the head, so that no ruffling process spoils the glossy smoothness of the finished head. I verily believe if you did spoil his work you would break his heart or be refused as a customer for evermore. First of all, though, before the hair.waving and after the shampooing, u you want your appearance to match the particular tone you are intending to wear at some smart ball you step into the massage cubicle, which adjoins the hair-dressing one. Long rows ot these little retiring rooms, I may add, are perfectly fitted out at the most exclusive West End beauty palaces. A friend of mine described a visit there, and much amused me by her desenption I, personally, do not believe in altering the tone of Nature to suit my frock, but she does., and has had her eyebrows plucked into a very thin fine arch, which, I. understand, is a very painful proceeding. She then had the new freshening treatment, which she described like a blow of P? u ?* tain air on the skin. The method is m this wise;—“Pure almond oil and the white of eggs are beaten together and used as a tonic, and spread. all oyer the face. I’m told it s delightfully soothing. Then my face aas bandaged m • cotton wool and ice was applied m sort pi packs.” It is strange how greatly beautifying is ice on-the skin, yet the beautv doctors will; tell J ou “ go out in a cold wind if you waut your skin to be really healthy. rather contradictory.) Well, to proceed. After this the face was thoroughly cleansed with all sorts ot delightful astringent washes, and the process completed of makmg up in special colors to tone. with the ball frock she was to wear, ana her hair. Powder was mixed of two shades to produce the required bloom, ad one used for check hones and the other tor the rest of the face. Two shades or lip stick, one over the other, were used, and my friend said she emerged a new woman from these treatments! For-, innately for her she has the time (aixl, 1 may say, the money as well), but D is not given to everyone to indulge in Such luxuries.

THE LATEST BRACELETS. Plain wide bands of gold are the latest form of bracelet. I saw one the other night quite 24 in wide. It was worn by a girl in a black dress and with bare arms, of course, and looked very distinguished. It put me in mind of a dear delightful affair one of my aunts presented me with, late in the reign of Queen Victoria, and which to my great delight I used to _ wear, feeling then for all the world like a duchess. I don’t know what became of that bracelet. I wish I had it now; it would bo the very latest fashion, and an antique, of course, i saw the same evening three bands of diamante worn on one arm. The widest was a good Sin wide; the others narrower! Then at another party the 1 newest neck collar was about 1 Jin wide, and fitted the throat, and was entirely composed of flashing diamante, it was very smart. If you have dog collars of many rows of small pearls linked together with diamante slides, wear them. They have come in again, and are the height of smartness._ Also the serpent coil for the neck is much used. 1 was shown one recently—a mass of precious stones, emeralds, rubies, and diamonds. Such a lovely thing, and so brilliant, especially for wear with a black toilette. THE USEFUL SHAWL.

I really don’t know of a more useful wrap than the fringed shawl. They are as fashionable as ever, and as § raccful and becoming. However orinary or shabby your evening frock, a beautifully draped shawl will transform you, ivhile in our draughty theatres they are very welcome. The new shaws arc not worn folded to a point as of old, but doubled so that they are straight. Brocaded velvet is a very fashionable material for them, and the design often is made more attractive by a background of gold threads. Hand-painted ninon or georgette is also popular, and this is sometimes bordered with a ' broad band of silver or gold tissue. I saw one made by a bride of my acquaintance of lovely pink embossed velvet on ninon-de-soi. It was hemmed all round wit.h a very deep fringe, and looked very uncommon, as one can get a bit bored with the embroidered ones. Another she made of georgette, and painted lovely falling roses all over the pointed part. This 1 think was the most beautiful shawl 1 ever saw. But she was very clever, and did things so well. It was, of course, trimmed with fringe; every shawl has to, otherwise its individuality is not there. ROLLING AWAY FAT. Now I am going to give a bit of advice to those who are past their first youth, and are inclined to put on too much flesh (or fat, you may call it). Buy one of the French rollers of waved indiarubber, and see what rolling on the too fat parts will do for you. My own personal knowledge of these appliances has been most satisfactory, and I can faithfully recommend anyone suffering in this way to give the roller a trial. I have a friend inclined to be too fat, especially in the body, and she has greatly reduced her size with this process. The great advantage to my mind is that no banting, or dieting, is required. She visited her doctor the other day—he had not seen her for some time—and he remarked: “Why, what have you been doing? Starving yourself, I suppose? How slim you are!” “Nothing like that,” said my frend, and just told him about the roller. I don’t know if they have appeared with you yet, but they are not expensive, the cheapest being only 12s 6d. They are invaluable to women inclined to embompoint, and act ns massage as well. ’

HUMOR OF THE PRAYER BOOK. The slight touch of humor which the Church of England Prayer Book owes to the Table of Kindred Affinity, with its superfluous injunction that “ a man may not marry his grandmother,” is called to mind by the meeting at the House of Commons to discuss the amendment of the law relating to marriage of persons with a nephew or niece by marriage. This is at present forbidden. But here is surely an anomaly, since a man may now marry his deceased wife’s sister, yet not marry the deceased wife’s sister’s daughter (a relationship not nearly so complicated as it sounds). The injustice lies in the fact that children by such marriages are illegitimate, and had to pay a succession duty of 10 per cent. We seem to live in glorious indifference of so much in this England of ours, and until something really silly strikes home, we don’t bother. It’s British I suppose! KING’S GIFTS TO THE POOR. King George js following his usual custom of giving tons and tons of coal away to poor people—over sixty this Christmas and New Year at Windsor. There are hundreds of them who eagerly look forward to this very acceptable gift. The local clergy undertake to find out the needy, and see that the coal is delivered on or before Christmas Day. Our King hates to think of anyone being cold on such a day. Last year the coal strike prevented the trucks arriving to time. They got run on to a siding, but a special wish from His Majegty set kindly hearted ones to work, and the gifts were delivered, and brought joy to many a poor home. These strikers little think how their own class suffers through their selfishness. New' Year gifts of beef are also distributed. I think Queen Victoria instituted this, and the vast riding school at Windsor was a veritable butcher’s shop on the occasion. The Sandringham villagers and tenants all come in for the Royal bounty, and none is forgotten at this festive season of the year.

BEING PHOTOGRAPHED

The success of a photograph depends almost as- much on the sitter’s mood as on the pose. If she feels rushed or worried -while being taken this will be notifiable, however much sho tries to put on a pleasant expression. Fatigue and cold give the face and eyes a strained and shrunken look, thus making the sitter look older than she actually is. The psychologist’s advice, “Think of beautiful things if you want to look beautiful,” is excellent in this connection, and to it might be added “ Think of amusing things if you want to look light-hearted.” For these reasons a cheerful, happy-go-lucky ■ friend is the best to accompany the sitter, and anyone liable to become self-conscious as soon as the camera is focused should ask her friend to laugh or talk her into self-forgetfulness. Smooth-surfaced wdiite dress materials usually look hard when photographed, and colored soft ones which drape gracefully ahvays come out well. A severe or plain type of hair-dressing looks more severe in a photograph than on the sitter herself, so that it is necessary to loosen it a little round the face in order to get a good effect. Some photographers also recommend a slight (and almost invisible) dusting of powder on brown hair, as otherwise it will appear to be black.

IN THE HEW WORLD

DOMESTIC SERVICE IN CALIFORNIA American civilisation is the antithesis of Greek civilisation, and in no field more so than in its attitude to women and its treatment of domestic service. The modern domestic servant of, the United States is nearer to the' patricians of Greece than to their slaves. In Italy (writes Ella Winter, in the ‘ Manchester Guardian ’) my servants took three hours a fortnight off; if we sent them to a picture mouse or let them go home for a night' thoy always arranged their work so that we should have nothing to do. My cook was horrified when I suggested that I should get the supper ready so that she might catch an earlier train to see her boys in the next village. In America your servant will not stay in on her day out if you are to entertain the Queen of Rumania (unless it be out of curiosity). A millionaire’s wife asked us to Sunday supper, “if you won’t mind helping to carry in the food yourself,’ ’she wrote. “On Sunday we always have a picnic supper, as all the servants go out.” A woman in Santa Barbara keeps five servants (with the two old ladies in family); every Saturday night aud Sunday afternoon all five go° out and in addition each has her own afternoon and evening off during the week

As well as much time off, the American servant has other advantages. Kitchens have all Jie up-to-date inventions that can make work lighter and pleasanter—electric refrigerators, which make ice on the spot ; shining white electric cookers; table drawers that go suddenly deep down to hold the flour and the bread and the sugar, doing away with cumbersome tins and boxes. Middle-class kitchens in America contain the tools only the richest in England can afford. It is true that wages in the States are very high, but also the maid has to be highly skilled. The two ojd ladies at Santa Barbara who keep five servants pay them 150 (£3O) a month each; but each servant has to do her job to the very tip-top of perfection. A speck of dust or a meal badly cooked will find her dismissed. The curious consequence is that no servants can be found to fill these requirements, and so the house has been locked up this summer and the owners have gone to live in a nhotel. The demands in this case are probably exaggerated, just as the pay is. A more usual wage is seventy dollars to ninety dollars for cook or chamber maid, clone dollar an hour per day; a housekeeper may get 100 dollars (£2O) a month, but for this the housekeeper may have to supervise the cooking and the housework, ordering, managing, and keeping the place in order while the inmates are away. Many servants in the United States are foreigners or negroes. In California they are often Chinese or Japanese or Filipinos (the last especially in hotels); while some people have brought over European servants. A not infrequent experience with these, however, is that they soon marry men of their own country, for in the foreign quarters of American cities there are usually more men than women. Or European servants go on farms or into trades where they may find that they can earn even more than at domestic work, and have their liberty as well. Negroes make both good servants and good nurses. They provide much humor in a household, but have a child’s sense of honesty. Domestic nurses are as difficult to get as domestic servants; for the most part they prefer to go out by the hour. A good nurse can command sixty-five to eighty cents an hour, so that to have one’s baby looked after for eight hours would cost £1 a day or more. And a nurse living in gets as much. But having the nurse living in is not always the end of the mother’s problem. A scenario writer at Hollywood, earning £3OO a week, told me that she never ceased Having trouble with her nurse. Her present one had just bought an automobile for 900 dollars, and insisted on taking the housemaid (who had made a failure as a dancer in films) out on joy-rides, and, in the evening, to dance halls. And thin she announced suddenly that she was taking a fortnight’s holiday—her mistress could like it or not. The mistress had changed nurses four times already, and this girl was good with the children—when she was with them. “Of course, we spoil them by paying too much,” said my informant, “but we can’t get them otherwise. What are we to do?”

The shortage of servants is being met in different and interesting ways. All are tending to one result—the abolition of the individual home as we know it to-day. Many people are giving up their homes altogether and living in hotels, and hotels are being made more homelike to meet this demand—with special dining rooms, nurseries, and playgrounds on the roof for children. Service flats are increasing; one lives in one’s own apartment and can get just the amount of “service” required—cooking, or housework, or laundry, any or all of those. The rent of the apartment varies according to tho amount of service purchased. In some towns community kitchens have been established, and the wasteful method of.each cook cooking for just three or four people is thus abolished. A very _ common method of servant sharing is for one person to go to four or five houses in a day; at Carmel, an colony on the California coast, this is the commonest method of keeping one’s house clean—if one does not do the work oneself. Japanese “house boys” do this work well, for they are very quick. But immigration laws are being tightened, and Orientals are as scarce as other servants in California now, and as dear.

THE PROBLEM OF FOOD

The thoughtful housewife - studies her cookery problems from two points of view—that of the eater and that of the cook. In planning the menu she remembers that, the dishes must be attractive, tasty and nutritious; at the same time, she gives due consideration to the, cost of materials and fuel, and the time required for preparation;, the serving, and the washing up. It is, of course, important to bear in mind that individual tastes differ, and that what may be attractive to one may be repulsive to another. The athletic schoolboy with an open-air appetite will probably revel in the sight of two fried eggs and several rashers of bacon on his breakfast plate, whereas an older person with a delicate digestion mght easily bo upset at the sight of so much food. Therefore, in studying the individual likes and dislikes of those for whom she is catering the housewife will not overlook the consideration of quantity as well as that of quality.