THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 19352, 11 September 1926, Page 23

THE GARDEN

Oar contribute, a woU-known gtutbtuv, will bo glad to aawwor questions, which must be received not later than Tuesday of ouch week. .Mmliamßaia tm thio column muni be handed m to tba office before 2 pan. on Friday.

SEASONABLE WORK

some particulars under which your tree is grown I may be able to advise you what to do. “Loganberry.”—The way to treat loganberries is to cut out all dead or ■ old fruiting wood first, then tie in the , young strong shoots of last season's growth and shorten them back a little ! ■by cutting a foot or two off the points. , Treat them much as you would a rasp berry, only instead of tying them in bunches, train them along the fence. ALEXANDRA DAY On Alexandra Day the Queen sent two large bunches of General M‘Arthur. , Ophelia, and Caroline Testout roses • from the Royal gardens at Windsor to j be sold at Christie’s famous auction rooms. A sale of jewels was suspended, ! (says ‘ The Times ’) and Mr Lance Han- ! nen himself buying the first rose at j lOOgs, had forty-three final bids down 1 to one guinea, the total being £635 5s for one bunch . In the adjoining room the amount for the second bunch brought £903, making in all £1,538 ss. LIME FDR CARNATIONS Sprinkle carriation plants and the ground they are in with lime every now and then, especially when they are being nipped back. But when shut for flowering, feed them with very weak liquid manure instead. Lime must never be used with manure—it neutralises the effects of the manure by releasing the | : ammonia. Crushed egg shells and crushed oyster shells dug into the ground before planting are also excellent for carnations. | FLOWER BORDERS The flower border has two virtues—use and ornament, and it is difficult to say which is the more important (writes a correspondent in an English I ■ journal). The value of the flower | i border is to hold together the soil I around the edge of the garden. If this soil is not held in place storms will wash it away, and the garden become | less fertile, for it is the finest and richest part of the soil which washes away. A close'border overcomes this difficulty, especially if a plant having a low, bushy or vine growth is used, such as verbena, pinks, violets, or pan-1 sies. These borders need plenty of manure and care at the start, but when onoe established need very little attention beyond weeding. Their virtue in the way of ornament is readily appreciated, for nothing looks more effective than a hedge of scentladen bloom, wreathing the larger plants and shrubs. Don’t use any bulbous plant for a

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN We are now at the busiest season of the year so far as getting in crops is Concerned. Not a day.should be lost. Seeds of nearly all kinds should bo planted excepting French and runner beans. It would be well to defer sowing these for another week or two, for the reason that the slightest frost would injure them, perhaps beyond recovery, for once they have been frosted or blasted with severe weather one might as well dig them in and start afresh. As the weather is the master of outdoor work, one must be guided by circumstances and the weather conditions in the district in which one lives. To make a hard-and-fast rale for all would be-to court failure for many. Sow the main crop of onions in drills oin to 12in apart, according to variety. Largo growers, such as Ailsa Craig, Globe, and others of that class, should have 12in, and Brown Spanish 9in. Give them rich, firm, and smooth beds and sow the seed shallow. _ Parsnips.—Sow in drills 15in apart in rich, deeply-dug ground free from fresh manure of any kind. New seed is indispensable. Cover the seed lightly. Make liberal sowings of peas for succession to those sown in the late autumn or those through the ground. Potatoes, both early and main crop, may be got in now. Spinach should be sown abundantly. The round variety is best for this. Sow also silver or spinach beet. Where well treated silver beet grows I to a great size, making it a valuable j and useful crop. Sow also carrots, lettuce, radish, mustard and cress.

Horse radish should bo got in at once. Trench the ground deeply; then with a pointed stake or crowbar make deep holes and drop pieces of the clean roots into the holes and cover. This tends to grow them in strong, straight roots, a thing very much to he desired with horse radish. Sow the main crop of leeks in a rich and. well-prepared border. Sow the seed rather thickly, as they have to be transplanted. Slant'globe and Jerusalem artichokes. Plant out cabbage and cauliflower. S’ow seed of these, with Brussels sprouts and a little early broccoli, to come into use in thp autumn. Celery and Celenac.—A little seed of these should bo sown on a mild hotbed to come in for early use. Keep a sharp look-out for earlyplanted potatoes coming through the ground, and earth them well -sip aa soon as they are seen, in case of frost. THE FRUIT GARDEN Finish planting fruit trees. This should be off hand now. This is the time for grafting fruit trees, particularly apples and pears. Old trees that have to be cut back, as previously advisedj will be in good condition for grafting now. There are various kinds of grafting—cleft, crown, wedge, whip or tongue, and others. The most successful way to graft old trees is wedge; or cleft grafting. The scion is cut j wedge-shaped, tapering off to nothing on the inside. This must he done with I a very sharp knife, and, if possible, ; with one clean cut from top to hottom. Then a similar cut is made on the top of the stock, but rather narrower. Next drive in a sharp chisel to open the head of the stock. Then insert the scion rather more than level, as the bark of the old stock tree is much thicker than the scion. This j must be allowed for so that the sap of both may come in direct contact. The chisel is then withdrawn, and the scion is held fast. Three or four eyes will be sufficient to leave on each scion. When this is done, wax overvthe face and top with grafting wax. To make this wax take equal parts of mutton fat, beeswax, and resin. Put the contents into a tin or iar, and place it inside a billy partly filled with water, and boil until the whole is melted. Lift the jar out and let it cool; it is then ready for use. _ After waxing it is a good plan to bind around the head of the stock over the wax with strips of calico. This tends to hold the scions firm and prevent the wax from cracking and separating from the wood. Should the wax become hard melt it a little; it will be more easily applied. Care must be taken not to let it_ boil over into the fire, as the wax is very inflammable.

border, as all bulbs die down as soon as they have bloomed, and, therefore, as a means of holding the soil in place, are useless. The proper place for bulbs is just inside the regular border. This obviates the danger of the bulbs being dug up simply because we had forgotten where they were. I did not always know the value of the flower border, but now that I have proved its worth my garden is more artistic and easy to keep in order.

COS DE BOULOGNE This is the time of the year (July) when the roses at Bagatelle, in the Bois de Boulogne, are in full bloom (writes the correspondent of tho ‘ Christian Science Monitor ’). A gallant show they cmko, white and pink and rod. The little park is radiant with rich color, and Parisians go in crowds to admire tho splendid display. Tho variety of blooms is remarkable. Many of them naturally bear famous French historical names. , There is a beautiful Mine Edouard-Herriot rose, and among the modern “ creations ” is a Marshal Retain rose. There is another superb rose named after Queen Alexandra. Altogether Bagatelle preserves its reputation. It is an interesting place with its little chateau. The Comte d’Artois first laid out the beds in the park. During the Revolution it was used for popular festivals. Under Louis XVIII. it was restored as a nursery. Every year since then it has become one of the joys of the Parisians. AQDILEGiA CHRYSAHTHA Aquilegia chrysantha is a beautiful golden-flowered,* long-spurred variety. Tho plants last for several years, each year becoming more beautiful. It is as well to raise fresh seedlings every year, however, as sometimes the old plants go off quite suddenly. Seeds of aquilegia should be sown now in seed tins, to have seedlings ready for planting out in the borders at tho end of tho autumn. The plants seem to grow equally well in sun or ip shade, and are absolutely charming in tho late spring garden. If seed pods are kept picked off, the plants flower over a long season.

Whip or tongue grafting is largely adopted in cases where the stock and scion are about equal in thickness; that is for grafting young nursery stock, which should be generally from Jin to fin in diameter. The scions should be about Sin in length and be prepared by taking off a slice nearly 2in long from one side of the base of the cutting, tapering it off at the bottom. The scion should be placed against the shortened stock to measure the length to make the cut on the stock, so that a corresponding stem on on© side is made to fit exactly or as near as possible to that of the scion. A tongue is then cut on both the stock and scion, and the scion is pushed slightly down so that the tonmie fits or slips into the cut in the stock. When fitting, care must be taken that the inner bark of the two come into direct contact with each other, or at least on one side, so as to allow the sap to flow into the scion. With a piece of raffia the scion should be securely tied to the stock, joined securely, and waxed over to exclude air and moisture. Saddle grafting is a very simple method. Two cuts are made in the graft or the scion to form the saddle, which should be from llin to 2in long so as to form the saddle*, whilst the top of the shortened stock is made wedgeshaped by the cutting of a slice on either side. The scion is then pushed down oyer the stock so that the bark cooes into contact, on one side at least. Bind the joint carefully with raffia, and wax over as with the whip grafting. , Clift or wedge grafting is another simple method. Two grafts are usually inserted,' ono on either side of each branch of the stock. The shortened branch to be grafted is split down the centre with a hammer and chisel, and a hard wood wedge inserted to keep ir The sides of the cleft should bo pared smooth and straight for the reception, of the scion. Ihe scions are then ent wedge-shape at lln base and one inserted on cither side, so that the "inner bark of the scion comes into direct contact with that of the stor);. Remove carefully the wedge, then bind with raffia and wax over, as with other grafts. ANSWERS “Apple Tree.”—Yes; you may graft your tree now and during this mouth. You will find your answer in my notes on grafting above. “Lilac.”—l cannot say definitely why your lilac does not flower, for the reason that yom do not give any information upon where or how or under what condition the tree is growing. Lilacs are very shy bloomers under certain conditions, especially if they are grown from suckers, and these allowed to accumulate. Sometimes they will grow for years and not flower. On the other hand, if they are grafted or budded upon another stock they make nice trees, and flower in the second year from the graft, If yon give me

PLANTS FOR DRY GARDENS At the time of writing it is hard to imagine a dry garden, tor most gardens are sodden with rain, and amateur gardeners are beginning to despair of raising seedlings for the coming season (states the gardening contributor of the ‘Dominion,’ Wellington). However, we have to look ahead, and must raise a supply of plants for that dry summer border that is to be found in almost every garden. As a rule it is on the dry side of a house, the sunny side of a hedgo, or a belt of shrubs, or on a sunny slope. But wherever it is. it is apt to spoil the general effect of the garden. By careful preparation of the soil and by a judicious choice of plants, even the dry border can be made attractive. When preparing tho soil, ordinary deep digging—that is, turning over the surface spado deep, is not sufficient. Mark off a strip of the garden, lift the surface soil, and set it aside. The subsoil should then be deeply dug, and should have thoroughly mixed with it a good quanity of well-rotted stable manure or garden rubbish. Having done this, lift the top soil from the next strip, and throw .it on to the well-worked subsoil of the first strip. Proceed to dig, and add manure or garden rubbish to the subsoil of tho second strip, which will then be covered with the top soil from the third. So on to the end of the garden, when tho subsoil of tho last strip will be covered with the top soil from the first. Subsoil so treated will provide a good rooting place for suitable plants'for a very long time, and tho result will he well worth the trouble expended. As the plants are put'in spread out tho roots nicely, cover them firmly with fine soil, and shade from sun till they are established. In the dry sunny border freesina make a splendid edging for the spring. As their season is a short one a row of

llb<a»«S==®==S« WORK FOR THE WEEK.

Many problems of commercial importance will be studied. The introduction of exotics in agriculture, increase of grazing possibilities on mountains and in lorests, and similar developments will receive as much attention as the cultivation of fruits and flowers.

Schools of forestry and many other botanical divisions will be maintained on the institution’s own property, and extension work will reach out into numerous colleges and universities of the Pacific south-west. The California Botanical Foundation is sponsor for the plan. This organisation was formed on May 23, 1925, as the result of plans and proposals made by Patrick De Lncy-Malhall, its director. With the backing of Dr George P. Clements, manager of the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce’s agricultural department, who had been working for tho development of plant introduction and experiment stations in California for seventeen years, many prominent citizens wore interested in the plant institution. At present the foundation has thirty-eight members, among thorn college presidents, bankers, business men, and other interested directly or sympathetically in botanical development. The foundation is in process of acquiring approximately 4,000 acres of land, including Mandevillo Canyon and all within the city limits of Los Angeles, at least 1,500 acres of which would be used for a botanical garden and arboretum. Tho remaining land tho foundation proposes to sell in estates for residences, in this way financing tho purchase of its site, which it will obtain at less than current wholesale prices. All profits above tho land cost will go toward the institution’s endowment. A selling organisation within the foundation is being formed to handle the disposal of real estate, so that all profits will be received directly by the institution.

This property is ideally suited to the purposes to which it would be put, officers of tho foundation declare. With climatic variations being obtained by altitude, which ranges from 100 ft above sea level to as high as 2,100 ft, virtually all temperate and sub-tropic vegetation can bo grown outdoors. Bananas ripen perfectly in the protected canyons of tho hillsides, while botanists declare that plants from''cold regions will grow in some of the higher levels.

GARDEN FRAGRANCES

Each fragrance in itself is precious and significant. Think of all the many kinds of fragrances of flower and leaf and woody stem. There are tho aromatic thymo and bee balm, the sweetscented rose geranium and heliotrope. There is the overwhelming loveliness of honeysuckle, the daintiness of violets and lilies of tho valley, tho alluring clove delicacy of pinks. There are the cloying hyacinths, tho sweet-spielling roses and lilies. There is tho heavy sweetness of privet, so soothing to some, so disagreeable to others; there is the subtle, penetrating quality of water lilies; there is tho hot pungency of marigolds. There is the fragrance of lindens and Paulowuia trees in flower and the sweetness of swamp magnolias; there are the pines and the balsam firs with refreshing fragrances unlike any other. There is hawthorn with a fragrance that Dorm Byrne says is like

catmint (nepeta) may be planted about a foot from the edge behind the freesias. The catmint is cut back at the end of autumn. The freesias then come on and flower in September. Then as the freceias are going off the catmint plants are beginning to send out long shoots, and in a very short time the row of freesias is covered with a thick mat of, grey-leaved foliage and slender spikes of mauve flowers. Catmint flowers always manage to look fresh through all the hottest months of the year, and keep the edge of the border attractive till May, when the plants may be cut back to the roots I to allow the freesias to push up into I the light. I Instead of catmint, Phlox Drummondii may also be used as a summer covering for a border of freesias. Two other go oil edgings for ..a dry sunny border are English lavender, which may be kept trimmed to form an edging, and the giant sea pinks (armcria). Erigoron mucronontus, yvith its dainty pink-tipped, daisy-like flowers, makes a charming edging for any dry border. During spring the dry sunny border Is easily managed, for the following plants may be grown successfully:— Narcissi, mignonette, scilla, rauscari, primroses, wallflowers, aquilegias, Primula malacoides, linaria, schizanthus, alonsoa, freesias, anemones, pinks, double periwinkle (ninca), and gazanias. For the summer: Eschschaltzias (rose pink, scarlet beauty, and mauve beauty), poppies, antirrhinums, geraniums, pelargoniums, petunias, mignonette, portulaca, carnations, sun roses (helisnthemums), gypsophila, crassula, zinnias, gaillardias, coreopsis, nemesias, godetias, larkspurs, lavatera, Phlox Drummondii, flowering verbenas, felicia, alstroimcrias, bearded irises, lupins, eryngium (sea holly), dwarf nasturtiums, and alonsoa. For the autumn: Zinnias, rudbecklaa, mignonette, lobelia, perennial sunflowers, salvias, French marigolds, Michaelmas daisies, shasta daisies, belladonna lilies, alstroemcria, sedum spectabile, and sun roses. Suitable shrubs are;—Ol-earia Haastie, Olearia insignia, Seneco Greigii, brooms, berberis, veronicas, rosemary, lavender, tree daisies, epacris, agapanthus, shrubby salvias, caryopteris, cistus, Salanum capsicastrum, and dwarf heaths.

The dry, shady border is a little more difficult to manage, but with care it can be kept attractive. Narcissi, scilla, aquilogias, primroses, and agathaea will do well in spring and early summer. Later a charming effect can bo achieved with begonias alone. Or the bed can be filled with Nicotiana affinie, sweet scabious, double pink godetiaa, and summer flowering gladioli. In the autumn Japanese anemones will make a good display. Among flowering shrubs hydrangeas are suitable if attention is paid to suitable mulching during summer and autumn. Fuchias, too, will make a good show if they are carefully grown.

PLANT STUDY GARDEN UNIVERSITY PLACED A post graduate university for plant study situated in a botanical garden and arboretum, said to bo larger both 'in size and scope than any now existing, will be established in California as soon as satisfactory arrangements for its location can bo completed (states the ‘Christian Science Monitor’). | The institution will be heavily endowed and equipped to carry forward on a vast scale uninterrupted studies and experiments in virtually all branches of botany. Within its exteni sive gardens, its arboretum, and its conj. aervatorics will bo grown specimens of | every division of plant life from those I°f the Arctic regions to tropical vegetation.

“ sustained music,” as if he thought it more wonderful even than the blossom wealth he loves so well. . . .

Intangible and elusive as they are, fragrances have associations of many kinds. They call up pictures of many climes and many countries. There is never a tiny whiff of hawthorn but visualises English lanes in Maytirne, pictures English gardens during spring, typifies England itself. Fragrances are inseparably mingled with the character and habits of plants. Is not the cool greenness of boxwood the very keynote of its fragrant charm? Does not each tiny bell of lily of tho valley tinkle the pure delicacy of its fragrance? Is not the fragrance of pinks indefinably mixed up with the careless mats of spreading groyncss along tho edges of paths? There is an everblooming white variety of Dianthus plumarius that 1 love to uso in gardens, not half so much for its luxuriant bloom in June as for its more delicate aftermath of scattered blossom. Ear into October its ballopened buds aro swecUy scented. Fragrance is inseparably mingled with flower color. Think of all tho perfumed loveliness of nicotiana, honeysuckle, Madonna lilies, garden heliotrope, dictamnns; do they not call up memories of white flowers glistening in the dark of the evening? Or get a whiff of marigolds; does it not suggest gardens of rich and varied color; of pungent yellow, orange, red; of calendulas, nasturtiums, calliopsis, zinnias, helomums abounding in masses in great sprawling borders? . . . By tho fragrance of plants, the character, the very style of the garden is woven into the texture of our daydreams. Roses and lilies have ever woven their fragrance into garden character. They have long been familiar flowers. Old engravings show that evon the tiniest of gardens 'nestling within the castle walls of mediaeval days had lilies and roses in its miniature flower beds. No doubt tho flower fra'-ranee was more precious to those clore-confined ladies in the pictures than evon the loveliness of the flower forms.

Hyacinths, too, may conjure up the stiff little Dutch gardens of the old prints with brick paths between tiny oblong beds. . . . Tuberoses call forth quite a different garden for me. It is the only garden in which I hare ever seen them blooming. It is a garden of white flowers that are planted, not in a solid mass, but rather like delicate white embroidery upon the green of flower foliage. Quite different are the associations of primroses. Their fragrance must recall to you, too, enchanting paintings of English woodlands where primroses make yellow carpets beneath the still leafless trees.

There are other fragrances, however, to touch American senses, for the sweet fern of our woodlands, the bayberry on upland pastures, the sweet pepper bush along streams, the arborvike on our northern lowlands, the clover in the fields, the flowering wild grape on the roadsides, suggest onr own countryside, with all the tangled rnggedness of its shrub and tree growth. And what is more enticing than the fragrance of the needle carpets in our pine woods?— Elsa Rbiimaxn, in ‘Garden Making.’