WITH AND WITHOUT BEARDS

Evening Star, Issue 19298, 10 July 1926, Page 13

WITH AND WITHOUT BEARDS

lit) FASHIONS KEEP CHANGING [Written by Warwick, for the ‘ Evening Star.’] To most of tho spectators at the recent hockey match between India and Otago the appearance of some members of the former team with beards was a novel sight on ,a , playing field. For many years past they have been accustomed to seeing players who are cleanshaven. The clean-shaven face, however, which is now the mode of most local players, was not always the fashion. Time alters faces in more respects than one, and in the lifetime of some of those who witnessed the hockey match there have been changes in respect to hirsute adornment. The cleanshaven faces of our players are, of course, tho outcome of fashion, and fashion, as wo know, is a changeful thing. This is well illustrated by old photographs of teams. In the nineties most of the players wore moustaches. While looking at photographs dating twenty-five years further back one secs representations of men in -jerseys or flannels wearing boards or side whiskers.

W. G. Grace, that champion of champions, will always be remembered by us as a man with a beard.

Fashions in and whiskers and boards probably did not trouble the men £>f Otago in tho sixties. Most of them seem to have grown a heard. In London during this period matters were very different. What to wear on the face and what not to wear became a matter of almost national importance. Mr James Franklin Fuller, in his book, ‘ Autobiography of an Irish Octogenarian,’ refers to the controversy which then raged in London about whiskers. Ho states that it would bo quite impossible to convey an accurate idea of the intense acrimony displayed sixty years ago on the .moustache question. Up to then all fashionable males were clean shaven as to lip, jaw, and chin, the mutton-chop whisker only being tolerated; and even this adornment had to submit to tho curling tongs every morning, in order to ho a strictly correct and fitting adjunct to the top hat. Then a few leaders of fashion had the temerity to appear in society with moustaches. Their audacity staggered tho “upper ten,” and their action was vehemently denounced as an infringement of the' privileges of tho army. Strange to say, the clergy of all denominations were among the most hitter opponents of the civilian’s claim to do as lie liked with his upper lip. Tho Press took up the running, and angry articles and letters appeared week after week.' Ultimately the moustache won all along tho line. From that time also the fashion of wearing beards began to revive, the practice persisting for manv years, though it is apparently now on the. wane again. The foregoing is only one of innumerable controversies, disagreements, quarrels, and persecutions that are associated with boards and no beards down tho ages. In all ages and in all countries tho wearing of hoards has boon a matter of fashion. Tho ancient Egyptians shaved their beards, exrept in time of mourning, when they let them grow. The Hebrews of old prided themselves upon long, flowing beards, no part of which was cut off, save on certain special religions occasions. The ancient Assyrians are said to have taken great pains in dressing and curling their boards. In Greece the heard was universally worn till the time of Alexander the' Groat, who ordered shaving, Unit the beards of his soldiers might not be laid hold of by their enemies in battle. Manifestly a soldier who got a grip of his adversary’s heard had a big pull over his opponent. Was it after this edict, we wonder, that Alexander conquered the world ? Shaving was intodneed among the Romans about 300 n.o. The practice foil into disuse, but was revived again some centuries later. The Romans, we are told, used pumice stone for shaving. They were brave fellows, those Romans.

In Russia Peter the Great compelled shaving by imposing a heavy tax upon tho beard, and be ordered that anyone found wearing a beard was to be forcibly shaved with a blunt razor. Hoards have also been the cause of trouble and tyranny in England as much as anywhere else. William the Conqueror compelled tho English to shave as the Normans did. Rather than suffer the indignity of losing their whiskers, many of tho conquered preferred fn leave tho country. Hy Elizabeth’s time boards were again worn, and they received an extraordinary amount of attention at the hands of their proud wearers. As Taylor, tho poet, puts it: Heights, depths, breadths, triform, square, oval, round, And rules geometrical in beards are found. What took place in Early Victorian times lias already been told. The beard, as will be seen, furnishes plenty of illustrations of the tendency in man to impose his customs and beliefs upon others. Things are not so had as they were, but the tendency persists and will continue to persist. 'ln Britain to-day the person wearing a heavy beard runs tho risk of being called “ Heaver.” Mr J. J. Hell, in liis lively bonk, 1 The Nicknms,’ describes a game played by some of the boys in Glasgow. It consists in “spot ting” men with beards, and the boy who perceives the largest number in a. given time wins the game. Ho guys the laggard in fashion by calling him “ Heaver, beaver ”

According to Mr Philip Gosse’s new book, ‘Pirates Afloat and Ashore,’ beards played a part in piracy. Most of the pirates cultivated a formidable aspect, and they were “artists” in beards and whiskers. None of them, however, could bo compared with Captain Edward Teach, tho notorious Black Beard. Had he been as mild a mannered man as ever scuttled fhip ho could not but have inspired all beholders with awe. Mr Gosse says. “ TeaeTl was a. tall, powerful man, with a fierce expression, which was increased by a large black beard, which grew from below bis eyes and hung down to a great length. This he plaited into many tails, each one tied with a colored ribbon and turned back over his ea rs.” As far ns length is concerned, Tench’s beard, however, could not compare with that of George Killingworth, am Englishman, which is reported to have been " thick, broad, and yellow and 6ft 2in in length.” Ono woman’s name, at any rate, is associated with beards, there being a legend to the effect that one St. Wilgeforto, in order to ward off troublesome suitors, prayed for and got a beard. Perhaps yon do not believe this story, but someone did, since her bearded statue is to bo seen in Henry t.no .Seventh's chapel, in Westminster Abbey.