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THE GARDEN

SEASONABLE WORK THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Keep the surface of the soil occupied by crops frequently stirred and kept loose. Destroy weeds on their first appearance. By so doing much labor will Vo saved. Pav attention to the thinning out of growing crops. Earth up potatoes before, the tops become largo or damage will he done in the process. Take advantage of showery or cool spoils to get planted out broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflours, and others of that kind, according to requirements. Such weather as wo have experienced of late affords golden opportunities for the work. Plant out asparagus in trenches as previously advised. Cucumbers.—Attend to stopping and training. Shade from a very hot sun, especially when the foliage is moist, and give plenty of air. Plants should be stopped by pinching out the points to cause them to break out near the base to furnish a sufficient number of shoots to cover the whole surface. THE VINERY Constant attention will require to bo paid to vines now by way of stopping or pinching back laterals or tho points of young shoots.- The first pinching is done two eyes beyond the hunch of fruit. Then the laterals push away. These should ho all pinched hack am!( kept at one eye, except the end one at the point of the branch. This one should bo allowed to extend its growth, through only one leaf at a time. By tho end of tho season this side shoot) or arm should have about five eyes beyond the bunch. That will be quite sufficient. .Regular stopping is of great importance where really good grapes are required. Young vinos that have not reached to tho top should he allowed to grow unchecked to their full limit, but tho side shoots must he stopped and attended to as advised above for old vines.

to put other plants, etc., in the ground from which you pulled these out, unless you dig a hole aud put in a little fresh soil. “ Tomato.” —Tho tomato leaves left at jjiy house for my inspection, 1 should say, like many more this season, have gone off through excessive cold and damp. Not knowing any conditions under which they were grown, either inside under glass or outside, 1 cannot say definitely. If you tell me if tho plant died or if they are the lower yellow leaves, aud add a lew more particulars, I will answer you again with more confidence. H.CL HISTORY OF THE POTATO In an article entitled ‘ The Potato of Romance and Reality,’ published by Mr W. E, Salford in tho American ‘Journal of Heredity,’ new, light is thrown on the liistory of the potato, and especially its introduction into Europe. It is stated that tho potato was in cultivation in South America centuries before the Christian era, and that persistent search has failed to find Solanum tubersum growing as a wild plant; indeed, in the time of the discovery of America by Spaniards,“ tho potato was extensively cultivated in the higher parts of tho country, now known as Colombia.” Tho native name lor it was papas. Tho Spaniards appear to have taken some of the tubers to Europe soon after their conquest of Peru, and it is known that tho potato was in cultivation in Italy.so early as the year 1585. About a century afterwards it was grown in gardens in this country. The value of the potato as a food was first recognised in Ireland, where, soon after its' introduction in tho seventeenth century, it was the main food crop of the poorer classes. It is very interesting to learn that the first comity of England to adopt the cultivation of the potato extensively was Lancashire, where so many potato farms exist. The article states that there is not a particle of evidence to prove that Sir Walter Raleigh ever saw the potato in America. CELERY DISEASES Mr Stirrup, M.Sc., advisor in plant diseases to tho Midland Agricultural and Dairy College, gave some interesting particulars at a conference held at tho college of investigations ho is conducting in celery diseases, which are causing very considerable _ 1 adures among the growers in tho districts of Nortli Lincolnshire. Both tho seedling and the adult celery plants are attacked with diseases. In tho seedling stage tbe principal troubles are damping~ off, which is apparently caused by (1) pvthium: and (2) a species ol phytophthora, of which there arc probably two types; and canker, which is distinct from damping off, and caused by a species of phoma. Mr Stirrup considers that excessive watering, defective ventilation. and defective frames m which tho seedlings were grown are contributory factors. Regarding later troubles lie referred to tho disease known as blight, which disease has been proved to be carried by the seed. Plants raised from old seeds appear to have loss blight than those raised from new seeds. Mr Stirrup stated that spraving had given very definite results this "season, notwithstanding the fact (fiat there, is less celery disease this year than usual. Tho cost of three sptayiugs, ho stated, was about £1 per acre. CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN THE GREENHOUSE

Grape Thinning.—Most grapes should be _ ready for thinning by this time. Thinning is of groat importance—in fact, good grapes cannot he produced without thinning. A well-thinned bunch of grapes is much superior in every way to that of a half or badlythinned one. They have a bettor appearance, are better in flavor, aiuS command far higher prices in the market. Thinning consists of clipping out with the grape scissors all surplus berries—mostly those inside, leaving those that stand well out, as they have the greater amount of space to expand. Commence at the lower extremity of the hunch, and work upward until tho shoulders are reached. Then, with a, pointed stick in tho left hand, hold out tho shoddier and then as advised, and so on until each branch is fiiif. ished. Where bundles of this nature are large they should bo tied out with thin strips of raffia to the wires or branches above. By this means all berries get room and air to expand to their full size. An experienced thinner ■‘will thin out tho fruit or bcrrjles ; so that when a bunch of grapes is cut and placed upon a plate it will retain, its proper shape, and not fall flat, as a badly-thinned bunch will do. On the other hand, where a bunch is insufficiently thinned tho berries become overcrowded, and are jammed toegther in a mass. Such are of much less value either on the table or in tho market.

A good guide as to the extent of thinning is to have it so that one cait put the point of tho finger hotwceif’ each berry or cut out from a well-set bunch from two to three berries for l every one loft in. Of course, discretion must be used in all cases, such ps whore tho fruit has well set, and, where the berries, have not set nearly so thick. I havd seen some varieties that have required very little thinning. Make all side arms or shoots secure by tying them out. securely or nearly so to the wires. The amount of fruit each vine should carry i_s of groat importance. Over-cropping is an evil which will have to bo paid for sooner or later, in many where the vines are over-laden the fruft will not finish well, ft will turn red, instead' of black. Shanking of the berries is often brought on by over-cropping. In this case the shank, or stem, of each berry dries up, and, of course, the tlow"of sap or juices ceases, after which tho berry gradually becomes exceedingly sour. About one and a-half founds of fruit to each running font of cane is a safe and good crop for caclT vine to sarry.

Chrysanthemums should stand in a oroonhousc so that each shoot on c\er\ plant can have attention without moving the pot (writes Mrs F. Bennett, F.R.H.S., in ‘Home Chat ). Pests can then be tackled, and walering will bo easy, and. what is more important, air will circulate treeij among the plants. Chrysanthemums should he arranged according to the shape of the house they are to occupy. Jf it is a lean-to greenhouse, the tallest plants should he at the bach, and others slope down gently towards the front. If the house is span-rooted, the tallest plants should be placed in the centre of the staging, and the lesser plants arranged to slope away from them in one or more circles, or, rather, pait circles, as one should arrange gtccnhouse plants so that they may not be easily overlooked. There is quite an art in ananging chrysanthemums as that all flowers will be shown off to the greatest advantage, but one has only to keep one’s eyes open at flower shows to pick up a few good hints in this direction. And this reminds me that I olteu wonder why friends of Fellows of the Jtoya.l Ilorticultural Society do not ask for the loan of their tickets, as they arc transferable, more often than they do tais slight favor. These notes are, of course, for beginners, and may be skipped by those who know as much about the subject as I do myself, and maybe more. It is a mistake to water a collection of chrysanthemums all at the same time. If you press your finger into the soil of one pot you may find it quilc dry, while the soil iu flic next pot may' be very moist. You sec. all the planls have not developed exactly the same amount of roots, and a very well-rooted plant is hound to absorb much more moisture than one with few roots, so water according to the plant's needs. No chrysanthemums should be watered until the surface soil is on tho dry side, but I do not mean bone dry or dust dry, as wo say. If the plants are arranged ns suggested last week, it will bo quite easy to tost the soil in every pot, and after a, very little experience in watering pot plants one may know by the weight of a pot whether the soil is dry or moist. CAREFUL FEEDING. You will find that chrysanthemums, once under cover, do not need nearly so much watering as when they wore in tho open, where sun and air absorbed such a. lot of the applied water, and this is an important point to bear in mind. As far as extra feeding goes—l say extra, feeding apart from rain water, which is full of fond most important to plant life—-it is better for the inexperienced to invest in a perfect concentrated food for special plants.

THE FRUIT GARDEN Those who aim at producing frnit of the best quality will be busy thinning out apples and other fruits which benefit by thinning, although I am afraid, as far as this district is concerned, very little thinning of fruit will bo required. The very u pg* l y orabl o weathoi experienced of late has done this work for us. Mildew has been and is proving very troublesome this season ; consequently it will require attention by way of spraying with Bordeaux mixture. This spraying will also keep m checkw shot hole fungus, black spot on apples and pears, as well as other fungoid troubles. Look over young apple trees, and where it is found that some shoots aie growing away very strongly at the expense of the others, pinch out the points to divert the growth or flow of sap into other channels. Tio or nail into vacant spaces leading shoots on wall iruit trees, and pinch or cut back surplus breast wood. With respect to peaches and nectarines, the succession shoots must bo well attended to, especially strong shoots, which should bo got into placebefore the wood begins to ripen, or they will most likely break in the process. Attend to trees grafted in the spring, and if they arc growing treely the clay or other bandages or coverings should be removed. In some cases it may bo necessary to retie, but this should bo done loosely, and the tops tied to supports to prevent them from being blown off. Bemove suckers trom stocks below the grafts or buds. Hoe and keep weeds or grass down from among trait trees. Raspberries will he making greau growth, and sending up suckeis in all directions. Where these are not, required for cnne.s tor next season’s planting dig them out or run the hoe through them except those near the main clumps, which will ho required for next season’s use. "answers “ Amateur.”—The cauliflower stumps forwarded for inspection are troubled with blindness. When cabbages or cauliflowers go blind, as in this case, and are left in the ground, the fact of them having fairly strong leaves indicates that they must' have roots accordingly, and as they have no centre or head to develop growth is forced out at the roots. It is not a form of clubroot at all, but a natural result of root action having no outlet for its energies. When you see blind plants of cabbage, cauli'llowcrs, or others pull them out right away, as they are only an encumbrance to the ground, and guite useless, it is uot a good plan

The novice is much less likely to come to grief when using one of these complete foods for special plants than if animal manure is used in liquid form. If directions are followed to Iho letter, one simply cannot go wrong when applying complete concentrated foods, and 1 have had some excellent results from tho same. I think I have mentioned that one gives all varieties of plants extra fond to induce buds to expand into flowers, but this feeding should ceaso when flowers arc nearing perfection, as one wants to prolong their beauty, and heavy food will only shorten their term of bloom.

Earwigs trouble some chrysanthemums to a devastating extent, and traps should he set for them. 1 find that short lengths of bamboo stuffed with a little hay are fine traps. Matchboxes witii a hit. of hay in (hem and left partly open too are excellent.

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

Oar contribute*:, a waJWmowß garimer, will be glad to answer questions, whisk must W-received not later than Tuesday of each week, A flinty fnr-fJiiffl oolwirm .m-ract bo banded in to the office hoforo Z pja. on Friday.

THE COTTAGE GAROEH GLORIES OF THE AUTUMN FLOWER SHOW The roses are dead And swallows are flying; White, golden, and red, The roses are dead; Yet tenderly tread Where their petals are lying. The roses are dead And swallows are flying. —Graham Tomson. In the humble cottage garden, with its delightful medley of close-crowded hardy flowers —with its roses mingled with cabbages—we seo th© origin of the herbaceous border as found in tho JLoval and other stately formal gardens—as at Hampton Court Palace, whore the flower show endures from midsummer until the last fires of autumn die away (states ‘ John o London’s Weekly’). It may seem curious to compare the cottage garden to a palace’s, yet in many ways one is a microcosm of the other in autumn. A £7,000 WALK. Tho border flanking the Broad Walk at Hampton Court is possibly the most magnificent herbaceous border in the world. The terrace is 2,300 ft long—nearly half a mile; and tho walk cost a matter of £7,000 when laid out m 1700. On a small scale in these autumn days tho cottager gains much the same effort as those of the Palace s gardeners. And his receive as much loving admiration. Every plant of tho cottage garden is likely to he an old friend of tho family, and many of them may bo nearly as old as the cottage itself—plants which have been lovingly tended through many generations. , In the Royal ordering of gardens, the main show of tho herbaceous border depends largely on phlox and Michaelmas daisies, .and so it is in the cottage garden. The King can have few lovelier flowers than the cottager s favorites —sun-flower and bell-flower, ox-eyed daisy, snapdragon, chrysanthemum, larkspur, or sea holly. And, while an herbaceous border demands a background, it makes little difference if it bo a cottage wall or the stones nr bricks of palace walls or terraces. The cottage background, like the palace's, may he adorned by some or the loveliest flowers ever grown, the climbing tea-roses, wistaria, or clematis. The owner of a formal garden, on a rrrand scale, will often wish that jig could bo quit of his hothouse and all its expenses. The cottager could show him how to make a lovesome_ garden from hardv plants alone, sot in permanent beds" which need little attention for ' eaIS ‘PALACE AND COTTAGE.

At such a garden as Hampton Court’s a visitor finds something new to admire round every corner. He turns from the glories of the herbaceous border to look into the peaceful King’s privy garden, or wanders into Queen Mary’s Bower, whore the Queen would sib at her needlework, or finds out the ancient peace of the Pond Garden, a haunt of the Palace’s birds. A country cottage garden of the old-fashioned sort offers the same contrasts, but in another way. One turns from the flowers to look at the orchard or the pigs. _

It is sad to see the old year dying, io sec roses dying, and swallows speeding. But the cottage garden keeps a brave spirit, and if its roses are now dying, winter jasmine is coming into flower.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/ESD19251219.2.128

Bibliographic details

Evening Star, Issue 19127, 19 December 1925, Page 23

Word Count
2,942

THE GARDEN Evening Star, Issue 19127, 19 December 1925, Page 23

THE GARDEN Evening Star, Issue 19127, 19 December 1925, Page 23