WOMAN’S WORLD

Evening Star, Issue 18999, 22 July 1925, Page 3

WOMAN’S WORLD

[By DIANA.]

Reports of social functions will be welcomed for this column. _ " Diana will also answer all reasonable questions relating to the home, cookery, domestic science, and any topic of interest to her sox. But each letter or report must hear the writer’s name and address as a guarantee of genuineness, and questions that do not permit of a public reply cannot bo answered. Questions should be concisely put and the writer’s nom de plume dearly written.

Memorial Fellowship. Miss Te Water is engaged in research on the best methods of treatment in education of sub-normal children, and this scholarship will enable her to. further her studios in tho United States of America under Dr Macfce Campbell, of Harvard, in his hospital.

JAZZ AND CULTURE

NO CONVERSATION. Has jazzing killed the leisured conversation which accompanied tho oldtime dances? This question has been pondered by a Parisian psychologist, and he declares from his own persona] observation that the men have, no culture at all and have literally no subjects for conversation. Marcel Boulengcr lias consulted the girls and has seen red a few luminous hints from them. Compliments? Never! Tho most personal remark that Achilla makes to Yvonne is: “Your frock is nice”; and nothing could bo farther from flirtations conversation than that.

Girls seem to he of opinion that young men are extremely easily offended and take umbrage at tho slightest shadow of criticism. At the sign of a frown they leap into their Bugatti or Hispano and vanish into dust—or smoke. Tho girl of to-day—with her too short skirt, without bolt or frill or ornament of any kind, and with her coiffure as short as her partner’s—is admitted by Boulengor to he more sincere than the girl of fifteen years ago.

ABSENCE OF SENTIMENT,

For all her long petticoats and closefitting waistbelt, the simplicity of the young girl of 1910 was a studied and laborious affair; she had much that was artificial in her mental make-up. You cannot accuse the girl who grow up during the war of being artificial; she is as transparent as her dancing frock, and uses costly perfumes instead of the artless bouquet of white roses that her elder sister used to hold in her white-gloved hand. No girl now cumbers herself with either bouquet or gloves—and of sentiment she shows not a grain. You can watch a dozen of the private balls given in Paris for young people and see nothing flirtatious. The young men, if they talk at all, will speak of their cars or of tennis; and the girls reply in the same key, watch* ing their steps and setting their pride in their ability to dance rather better than anv of their fellows.

Both to English and American eyes the absence of flirtation is striking enough. The couples are comrades or play-rellows, and nothing more. There is no whispering and no tendency to get into corners or to sit, on stairs, unless in big bands. They all take a healthy interest in the buffet. “ What lovely things they have given us to eat,” J heard a lad say to his partner tho other night, as lie handed her some cake. Psychology, even their own, seems to interest them not at all, and sentiment is as much out of fashion as tho sunshade that used to be so skilfully handled by coquettes. GIRLS AND THEIR PARTNERS.

Probably the relations between young girls and their dancing partners are the result of tho way that marriage is managed in this country. Matches are not made in the ballroom, and Berthe can dance with a light heart with all and sundry, secure in tho knowledge that muman will see her to her establishment. As she is not allowed to read newspapers, Berthe does not learn of elopements with or without revolvers; and outside the classics .she has seen no stormy courtships or sensational last, acts.

Still, "the heart has reasons which reason ignores,” says the proverb; and even At. Boulenger admits that, love .still plays a hand in some of these young lives. Sometimes these hoy-and-girl friendships begun in tho ballroom end in marriage, and preference is hard to hide completely. “Never,” said a debutante of the season —“ never do our partners admit that they aro in love; they would sooner perish, I believe. _ But, o! course, there are shades and differences, and one is different with different people. A. girl can tell 1”

SLEEVES IN THE EVENING

Sleeves are being added to many of tho latest evening frocks designed in Paris (says a correspondent in. an exchange). Tho very latest idea is tho scarf-sleeve, which is merely a rather narrow strip of thin material, such as crepe, chiffon, or embroidered tulle, long enough to be thrown round the neck on the left side, and only attached to the armhole at the shoulder. Hand-embroidered or hand-painted .scarf ends, lightly attached at the armholes, look very attractive on evening gowns. Flamingo-pink chiffon encrusted with silver, seed pearls, and diamond sparks was used for one gown. Diamond sparks held the sen I'i-slecves in place at (he elbows.

1 lane just seen some exquisite evening gowns which were made of liamlpaiuted silver lis.Mie veiled in silver tulle and having tulle sleeves. One of the models had iutnristic flowers worked upon the shimmering background; another had a landscape iX ated in soft colors on one side, while the other was left plain. In this latter ease tho tulle veiling was finely pleated. A famous Paris dressmaker is showing “ mitten sleeves ” tor evening wear, A pace-pink eharmeusc frock which had nil the fullness on the left hip had long mitten sleeves of puce-pink lace attached to the armholes by strings of liny diamonds. Tho mittens themselves had a fine tracery of diamond sparks between knuckle and wrist, and on the upper part of the left arm there was a Hat diaimmd bracelet. I saw. also, the same idea carried nut in black (ace and diamond sparks on a black and while striped t a (feta dinner frock.

Wide crystal fringes are also arranged as sleeves on some ol the m*w theatre dresses. Many women, however. still show hare arms. But the picturesque searl'-sleeve already described is undoubtedly achieving success. It belongs to the popular fashions of tho present day, and. it .suits most women.

CAT JUGS

Tho milk jug with a cat for a handle is an old favorite which comes up in different forms again and again (says tho ‘ Manchester Guardian ’). Usually the eat has been associated will, rather common little jugs, with no pretensions to beauty or merit of any kind. There is a now cat, jug, however, that is quite an aristocrat in its own particular way. It is made of white china, with a solid silver swing lid. The cat is a lucky one, beautifully modelled iu black; the head looks into tho jug and the body forms a perfect handle. The contrast between the white jug and the black eat is very effective. while the silver lid forms an edegant finishing touch. These jugs are no doubt intended for wedding presents, because they belong to that long list of things that most, of us would hi' glad to possess, but do not cure, to buy for our own vise.

SOCIAL AND PERSONAL.

Miss Cook, from Mastcrton, is staying with Mrs Lc Crcn. Miss Ilaggitt (! nvereargill), who has keen staying with Mrs C. Henderson, is now clown at the Hay, as the guest of her aunt, Mrs Macantlrow.

Mr and Mrs C. Chapman leave tomorrow by the tonic, They expect to bo away in the Old Country for at least a year.

Mrs Thonison-Priec has a unique distinction in being chairman (or chairwoman?) of director of Slaters, Ltd., the great catering firm in London.

Mrs Vivian, Mrs Lc Cron, and Mrs Hill invited a number of friends to the Women's Club last Friday afternoon to say “an revoir ” to Mrs C. Ciiapi man, who is off to England.

Sir John and Lady Loss asked a few friends tip on Saturday evening to meet tho University Commissioners, Sir Harry RcicheJ, Dr Maration, Mr Tate, and Miss Rosevoar.

Few women are better known than Rebecca West, novelist, journalist, reviewer, lecturer, and feminist, whose word counts for much. She docs all her work by hand—no typewriter for her—and site writes her hooks about five times before she is satisfied. What liarcl work!

Dr and Mrs Jack gave tho members of tho University Commission a chanco j of meeting the University staff and a ! few other educationists in quite an informal way, when during tho week--1 end they invited about seventeen ■ guests.

I The Play Reading Circle of the Women’s Club held its usual meeting Inst night, when Galsworthy’s ‘The Forest ’ was read by members present. Parts were not allotted, all doing their share in turn. This system has' the great merit of bringing out any now talent, and is much to be recommended : in circles of this kind.

A mos*. delightful surprise party was given at the homo of Miss Ruby Anseombe, Anderson I]ay, on Wednesday evening. Those present were Mrs P. H. Martin, Misses Anscombc, E. Read, Martin (3), J). M/Hnteheon, M. Sowers, G. Parle. Walker, Kirby, Rutherford, Drs Dath and Rend. Messrs Anscombe, Carter, Taylor, 11. Kidd, J. Smith, H. Berney, Cramond, Kirby, A. Boyd, D. Moir, and Cameron.

The Victoria. Hall was even more attractive than usual on Saturday evening, when Dixieland held a balloon dance. A large number of dancers were present, and all enjoyed the specially good programme of .music played by the Dixie Jazz Band. Mr F. Sligo played the extras in his usual capable style.

The “ Circle Francais ” bold its fortnightly meeting on Monday night, when members read Labicho’s comedy ‘Le Voyage do M. Porrichon.’ Tho next meeting will be on Monday, August 3, when Mine Saldaigno will be in charge of the evening. A very good programme is promised, and it is hoped that the attendance will be large. Mr and Mrs Roy Stevenson bad the honor of entertaining the Maharajah of Jbalawa, Colonel Benn, Dr Bharita, and Mr Khan last Saturday night at their beautiful homo in Anderson Bay, His Highness having expressed the desire for an informal homo evening. Others invited were Mr and Mrs A. A. Howes (Christchurch'), Professor Strong, Mr and Mrs G. Johnston, Mrs Primmer, Miss Edith Howes, Miss Barth, and Dr Beuham. That tho parly was a success was shown by tho fact that it was well on to midnight before the illustrious guest took his departure.

Tho ‘ Ladies’ Mirror ’ continues to more than hold its own with other monthly magazines that cater for womankind. The July month has two specially attractive personal articles—one on the ‘ Smiling Littlo Duchess,’ as tho Duchess of York is called, and tho other on the family life of the new Prime Minister, Mr Coates. In addition tiiei-e arc excellent photographs of New Zealanders, beauty hints, and unique recipes.

The Knox College dance last Friday was as successful as it has been in tho past years, which is saying a great deal. Tho handsome hall was beautifully decorated, and all present thoroughly enjoyed themselves. The master and Mrs Hewitson received their guests in the library, tho hostess wearing a handsome gown of black satin. Others present included Dr and Mrs Drcnnan, Mrs Jack. Misses Rule (2), Ross, Mollison, Callender, Fairbairn (2), Professor Adams, and Dr Ivcrach,

Members of the Ex-Otago Girls’ High School Club met on Monday night at the Women’s Club to listen to an informal talk on life in China. Tho lecturer brought many articles from Peking, including a. beautifully embroidered door curtain, used at birthday parties of people sixty years of age and over. After tho talk many of those present examined the works of art, and asked questions. Dr Marion Whyte proposed a vote of thanks, which was carried in the usual hearty fashion.

By tho courtesy of the contractor (he Anstral-Girton Club mot in tho now hall at Columba College. Tho Constance Hall (so called in memory of Constance Faulks, the first Colnniha College student who passed into the Great Unknown), in spite of its incomplete state, looks beautiful, and dues great credit to all concerned. One ui the latest gifts is a handsome eheqno from the bereaved father, and the giic chairs aro coining in very well. The hall is so built that it will ho nssd for classes, with a platform capable ul looking after supper arrangements, the whole to he thrown into one on special occasions. It is capable of holding 500 people, and is a great acquisition to the school. On this the first occasion it has been used, Miss Ross, M.A., wm. in the chair, and welcomed the numerous “Old Girls” with an enthusiastic and charming speech, after which amusing competition and items by Airs Cowie (recitations), Miss J. Jones (piano), and Miss L. Scott (songs), and supper made the evening pass all too rapidly. Special thanks aro due to Mrs Malcolm for excellent supper arrangements, and Mrs Hay, tho convener of the programme.

Much interest is being shown in England in the question of child welfare in its different aspects. In March the Duchess of Atholl opened a conference on the physically defective child and his education. There aro in England and Wales at least 150,000 defective children, of whom not more than 41,000 aro provided for in special schools. Another prominent social worker, Miss Rathbone, has been appointed to the League of Nations as assessor on the committee dealing with tralfic in women and children. 1 Hiss Rathbone has given many years of her life to the improvement of child lii'e, and her appointment is popular amonH all women’s organisations Further, Miss Te Water, graduate of Johannestliirg ami Pretoria, Jins been awarded tho Rosa Sidgwick

SIMPLIFIED DRESS.

DISAPPEARANCE OF DETAILS. President Coolidgo recently remarked in public that ; whereas a few years ago over JOiyds of material wore needed for a lady’s dress, she can to-day be sufficiently and fashionably clad in onethird of that length (says the London ‘ Daily Telegraph ’). He did not refer, apparently, to the increase of width in most modern fabrics, but to the fact that, with the more exiguous standard in the silken, woollen, or cotton substances used, there has beeiy a corresponding elimination of detail in the making up of all items of attire. Indeed, the reduced quantities of fabrics in the weaving of which much women’s labor is involved, and the disappearance of “ seam, and gusset, and band,” tucks, hems, and gatherings, are a factor not to he wholly overlooked in the statistics of female unemployment.

Take, first, the dross itself in one of its most popular manifestations. It is quite straight up and down. The nock is cut round or in a “ V ” shaped opening, and thus is avoided all the work that in the past was put into a close-fitting collar, with its stiffening and shaping. A bygone generation demanded that the waist should bo shaped to the figure and the corsets, and rigidly held there by a series _or lengths of whalebone, each of which had to be encased in the material used for the lining, and then carefully and accurately stitched into place. Nowadays there is nothing to suggest even the place of a waist-line. The knitted costume has carried the process of simplification yet further. For the skirt or the coat-frock the material is woven in tubular form, and, in regard to the latter, the shaping out for the sleeves i; very quickly done on the still-favored “ Magyar ” lines. A coat may involve a couple of side-seams and a little machine stitching, but what is that in comparison with the complicated cuts of days gone by! Fashionable underwear has altogether cast out of the trousseau the separate garments of the past. In the slim, straight “Princess petticoat” is (Combined an underslip that can be worn beneath a semi-transparent gown, the camisole, and the underskirt. And it can he made with an absolute minimum of needlecrait. With a deep and .a narrow flouncing, bought by the yard, the skirt is evolved from the one, and, with a little gathering, the bodice from the other, the sleeves being a mere band of riobon tied over the shoulders. It is as comfortable as ; and far smarter than, those creations in _white_ cambric, with their frills and insertions, the “getting up” of which used to occupy hours at the laundry. Bayon, celanese, or the finest wool provides the basis of our vests; and the modern girl, looking at the lost of the different garments with which her mother or grandmother equipped herself, marvels how she managed to put them all on. One of the latest devices to save work is to use the finer tubular stockinettes for nightdress 3S.

WHILE MISTRESS WAS AWAY

MAIDS AND THEIR MEN FRIENDS,

How three maids gave night parties in their employers’ house to men friends was revealed at Marvlebono Police Court.

In tli o dock was Maud Arbury, u twonty-four-year-old cook, and slio was charged with stealing money entrusted to her by her mistress, Mrs Iris Freudenthal, of Radnor place, Hyde Park, wife of a former Grenadier Guards’ officer. It was stated that, with other maids, Arbury had brought men friends to the house every .Saturday night. She was discovered one night when driving up with men in a mote.- car.

The girl was sent to prison for six months with hard labor.

How lire giiTs behaviour was discovered was revealed bv Mr F. Fieke Pal-

While Mrs Fmidenthal, ho said, was in bed ill, she trusted Arbury to pay her tradesmen’s bills. The ghi faded 10 do so to tlio extent of £7O, and kept the money. When arrested at an address in 'fitchbourne olivet, Edgewaro road, the girl confessed that she had hud the whole of the £7O, and added; “It began last summer, and I have been steadily getting into more trouble. I have horn too fond of buying nice clothes; that is where the money has gone.”

One Saturday evening, when Mr and Mrs Frcudenthal returned home about 9 o’clock, throe of the maids obtained permission to go to bed. Some time, later a telephone message came through, ostensibly from Paddington Green Police Station, asking if they knew that their three maids had left the house. They immediately searched the house, and found that it- was so. About 1.30 Maud Arbury and (lie other maids drove up in a motor car with two men. Maud walked in Just to see if the road was clear, and, being confronted, said she had come hack because, she was penitent. The others followed. Next morning the three were summarily dismissed, and since then Air and Mrs Frcudenthal bad discovered (hat every Saturday night, after they had left the house to stay with relatives at Reading, the three gilds had given parties and entertained their male friends.

The men also slept in the house, and actually occupied Mr and Mrs Frcudon--1 dial’s bed