THE ATTACK ON EVEREST

Evening Star, Issue 18714, 16 August 1924, Page 3

THE ATTACK ON EVEREST

EAST RONGEUR GLACIER, June 8. I 'dictate tile 'eighth despatch from camp three (21,000 ft). I say dictate, as I am unable to write, as I am just recovering from an acute attack of snow-blindness, whereof more anon, Geoffrey Bruce, jack-of-all-trades, is my secretary. Both of us having had a go at high altitudes, feel that this particular kind of work for the moment is what exactly suits me. Above towers Everest, somewhat powdered with fresh snow, still and windless, and half shrouded in that type of damp, sticky cloud which surely this time presages the advent of the monsoon proper. Every eye in camp is turned on the final pyramid. Expectation is at its keenest, for somewhere there tlio final attempt, as it must inevitably be, is at this moment deciding the success or failure of Hie 1924 expedition. When last I -wrote I explained that the original plan would require modification, partly owing to uncertainty, more definitely owing to the exhaustion, physical and moral, of the porters. I propose shortly to describe the psychology of these interesting men in more detail. At present it must suffice to say that Geoffrey Bruce and Shebbearo, who know them best, agreed that twelve to fifteen at the time of the return to the assault was the maximum to be depended upon to go beyond the normal 23,000 ft. It behoved ns to cut our coat according to our cloth. At a conference of climbers at camp one on May 27 it was decided that for the present the use of oxygen must bo discarded; that a series of at least two attempts without oxygen, sleeping two nights on the mountain, above 23,000 ft, with the absolute minimum of organisation, should be made; afterwards as the Fates might decide. Another precious day of fine weather was sacrificed on the 28th to the recuperation of the climbers; no doubt the res,'ills repaid the risk. The day, further, was utilised by those ingenious and infallible mechanics, Odell and Irvine, in constructing a rope ladder from Alpine rope and tent pegs, to enable tho loaded porters to negotiate safely the ice chimney leading to camp four, of which you have already heard. Like all the work of tho wellknown firm of “ Odell and Irvine,” this proved a most complete success. The weather was now apparently almost perfect for cur purpose. The mountain day after day was standing clear out in azure; even the streamer cloud, the hall-mark of the master peak, was lacking from the master of all. The preliminary monsoon symptoms had entirely disappeared, yet „v e well knew that the monsoon might at any moment bo on us in full force. The parties selected for tho first two assaults were Mallory, Bruce, and Somervell, myself, with Odell and Irvine, supporting on the north col. THE “TIGERS.” Tho party reached camp three on tho 30th, accompanied by Noel and his kinema outfit. Hasard, destined to support from camp three, arrived a day later. Bootham, unluckily suffering from an attack of acute sciatica, determined not to be out of the hunt, had broken off from tho doctor’s supervision at tho base camp, and struggled manfully to camp three with his usual determination, prepared to cook, climb, or carry; indeed, to support tho climbers in any way possible. It -was my painful duty to return him to the base camp with an order to release Kingston, so that a doctor should be available to ascend to here and look after possible casualties. (It must not bo forgotten that the, 1924 expedition is under strength.)

With tlie above climbing parties at camp three were assembled that picked gang of porters, who were considered still reliable to go high. They were fifteen in number, and distinguished by the name of “ Tigers.” At (ho stage set for the final attempts on the mountain the weather continued perfect. On Juno 1 Mallory and Bruce, accompanied by nine of the *' Tigers,” camped at the North Col (Chang La), establishing rn ronto a ropa ladder. Odell and Irvine were to remain in support at camp four. On June 2, still apparently under perfect weather conditions, tho two climbers and eight porters started up the great north ridge to establish camp five. But the weather on Everest is not always what it seems. Once past the jumble of crevasses and seracs, separating camp four from tho true col, a bitter north-west wind, one of the most formidable foes; we have to face on Everest, smote the little party on tho flank. This wind must be felt "to be appreciated. Every member of the party was equipped with every device of windproof clothing experience could invent. Yet such is the keenness of the wind that it appeared to have the double quality of penetrating through and yet nearly blowing the laden porters out of their steps. Progress up the north ridge of Everest dues not lend itself to description. It is a fight against wind and altitude, generally on rock, sometimes on snow, at an average angle of 45deg. It will appeal to those who have ever tried mountain climbing above 23,000 ft. Gamp five was to lie situated on the east or sheltered side of the ridge at about 25,300 ft. At about 25,000 ft -the endurance of the porters began to flag, and of eight only four made camp five under their own steam. The remainder deposited their loads, unable to go on. While Mallory set to work to organise the camp, Bruce and one Lobsung, meriting the distinction of being one of the leaders of the “Tigers,” made two trips back from the level of the camp, and brought up the missing loads on their own backs. Whites cannot carry loads at these altitudes with impunity, and it is scarcely to lie wondered at that Bruce’s heart was strained, happily only temporarily, in this fine performance. AT CAMP FIVE.

Camp five was now established—two fragile 101 b tcntlets perched on an almost precipitous slope. Tne tents occupied by the non-oxygon' party in 1922, collapsed, ami held in position by big stones, were clearly seen 200 ft below. According to plan, live porters now returned to camp four, three picked ones being retained to sleep tiie night and carry a tinier camp some 2,000 ft higher on the morrow. Obviously everything depended upon the physical condition and moral of these three men. The most persuasive powers of Bruce could elicit little enthusiasm from them as to their next day’s task. Apparently the wind had taken the heart out of them. With no rosy anticipations the party went to bed, with the sun still gliding the tops of the surrounding mountains, after the truly miserable but inevitable routine in high altitudes of cooking the dinner. It was intended to make an early start next morning. This has been done; therefore is not impossible. But when Tibetan porters are concerned it certainly approached tho limits of the possible. Making a long story short, a series of visits to the men’s tent while the climbers’ breakVila being geepsesd produced in . the

THE LAST CLIMB DESCRIBED. A RECORD OF HEROISM. In a despatch from camp three, dated June 8, Colonel Norton deicribes the final attempt to climb Mount Everest, and in an additional brie! despatch from the base camp on June 11, records the loss of Mr Mallory and Mr Irvine. These two had reached about 28,000 ft when last seen, and Colonel Norton surmises that they perished through some mountaineering accident not connected with altitude or .weather. [By Lieulenant-co]oneJ E. F. Nortox, Leader of the Expedition.] (Exclusive to 'Evening Star’.)

end nothing but the most unwelcome information that only one was lit to proceed. The other two professed to bo sick and totally unable, to carry a load. Bruce talks their language fluently, and has great influence over them, and there is not the slightest doubt that if anybody could have stimulated them to go on it was he. It was fairly evident that the three porters had shot their bolt, and that nothing more was to be got out of them. After a brief consultation it was decided to return to camp four. Halfway down tho party under Somervell and myself, timed to follow the footsteps of the first party one day behind, was met. (The doings of tho second party will bo separately chronicled by Somervell.) Mallory and Bruce, on arrival at the North Col, were met by Odell and Irvine, who were fulfilling for the first time in the history of Everest climbing the official role of supporters. Since 1992 wo have recognised the necessity of this role, picturing the comfort to a returning party of weary climbers such support might afford. The most optimistic imaginations fell short of the reality, as produced by that “ wellknown firm.” For over a week those two have lived on the North Col (23,000 ft), and have cooked every meal—and only those who have done it can appreciate the recurring hatefulness of this operation. They nave, gone out day and night to escort and succor returning parties of porters and climbers over the intricate approaches to the camp, carrying lamps, drinks, and even oxygen to restore the exhausted. They have run the camp and tended the sick, and Odell for one has been down to camp three, ecorling parties or fetching provisions on three consecutive days. Whether we reach tho fop or not. no members of the climbing party can pull more weight in the team than these two by their unostentatious, unselfish, gruelling work. DR SOMERVELL'S STORY. The following is Dr Somervell’s story of Colonel Norton and his climb .to 28,000ft:—

The weather was looking more and more settled every day. On May 30, as Norton and I toiled up the glacier the third time this year to camp three, we felt at last we were really going to be allowed a shot at the peak itself, and not merely baffled and foiled by a blizzard o*r hurricane at some comparatively low level. On Juno 1 wo went up the steep ico wall of the North Col with a few porters, and on arrival at the camp at the top of the pass heard that the other party had got off early, and were probably oven then settling in at 25,000 ft. We slept well that night—beds of snow are much more comfortable than those of the stores at the camp below. Early on the morrow we set out for the upper camp, sis porters carrying extra 'cod and bedding to replace what Mallory and Bruce would have taken up with them to a still higher bivouac. As wo crossed over the snowy shoulder of the col lo tlic wudy western side the blast was most (lulling. We drew our fur caps over our ears, tightened our belts, and went as fast as the altitude permitted, in order to keep warm. For, though the sky was cloudless and the weather settled, Everest can provide on the finest day a wind chilling to the marrow. “Wo had not been going long when Mallory asd Bruce and their porters appeared above, coming down fast, an unexpected and unwelcome sight. They told us how they made a camp with two little tents, how the stoutest porter was sick, and the others unable or unwilling (o go on. So there was nothing for it but to come back and hope for success out ~-f thy attempt in the second of the s..*r>s. Very apprehensive as to :lte aii'tnde of our own porters on the morrow, Norton and I plugged along up an easy scree of the shoulder, leading for over 4,000 ft from the North Col up towards the north-eastern summit ridge of Everest. We found Mallory and Bruce's tents pitched on the stoop but sheltered south-eastern side of the shoulder. Keeping four of our porters in the camp, where they spent the night in a space 6ft by sft, we then proceeded to settle down in th© other tent of similar size. The floor had been welf levelled by our predecessors, and after making a good meal of pemmican and bully beef, coffee and biscuits, we spent a fair night, during at least half of which we slept, finding no discomfort from the altitude or diflfculty in breathing. Another glorious sunnv dav followed, and w e wore delighted to find three of the porters willing to proceed and carry loads—tent, bedding, and food—to the next stage. One porter especially deserved credit, res he had cut his knee rather deeply on a stone th© previous evening. The easy scree of yesterday became looser as we got higher, and energy as well as temper suffered in th© weary plod from 25,000 ft to 26,700 ft, where the scree gives place to sloping slabs covered with small stones, which render footing rather precarious.

all found the views most attractive, not only for their magnificence, but as excuses for frequent halts. Indeed, halts were necessary as we went along, as they enabled ns to keep breathing sufficiently for our bodily needs. Finally at tho height of 25,700 ft, in a rocky little basin on the ridge, wve had to stop and pitch our tent. The situation was far from ideal, but it seemed the best available in the vicinity, and on Everest you have, got to take what yon can get, and be thankful. A lot of levelling had to ho done, bub the wind was kind, and. although hv no moans what we could have desired, the tent was at least habitable. The three faithful porters returned to camp four quite and armed with a note setting forth their prowess, and suggesting its reward with food at the lower camps, where no doubt they had the meal of their lives. In our tiny tent we cooked a good brew of coffee and a little soup, but the altitude was attacking our appetite, and we could not fancy more than a morsel of solid food. Filling the thermos with coffee for the morrow, in order to avoid having to cook before an early start, we settled down for the night. Both of us were surprised' that we got some sleep, at any rate, though not very much, out when morning arrived w© were well rested and untroubled by breathing and other effects of great altitude.

Wc got up full of hope as the dawn was breaking, but there was an early disappointment. Alas! the thermos had shed its cork during the night, and we had to waste nearly an hour melting snow in order to make more liquid. For both of ns remembered how, in 1922, at a somewhat similar altitude, thirst above everything destroyed stamina and going-power, and we were determined to start our final climb with plenty of fluid inside ns. At last we got going about 6.45 a.m., and trudged slowly up a broad, rocky shoulder slanting across towards our right in the direction of the summit, for there the going

I seemed easiest. Moreover, iu that direction was a patch of sunlight. Our side of the ridge was in shadow and very cold, and wo thought climbing in tho sunshine correspondingly attractive. At length, panting, puffing, and sometimes slipping back on the scree and compelled to stop for a minute to regain our breath, wo attained the sunlight, and soon began to got warm. We crossed tho snowy patch, with Norton gallantly chipping steps in front, and reached tho broad yellow bank of rock which is such a conspicuous feature in distant views of tho mountain. This rock has weathered into horizontal lodges some ten or more feet wide, and provides a safe and easy route towards tho summit ridgo; so up these ledges wq went, pulling ourselves, with heavy breathing, from one to another, and walking along them occasionally for respite, but always keeping upwards and to tho right, hoping by these means to avoid some of tho looselooking rock on the north-eastern ridge above.

But tho altitude was beginning to toll severely on u.s. About 27,500 ft there was almost sudden change. A little lower down wo could walk comfortably, taking throe or four breaths for each step; but now seven, eight, or ton complete respirations were necessary for every single step forward. Even at this slow rale of progress wo had to indulge in a rest for a minuto or two every twenty or thirty yards. In fact, we were getting to the limit of endurance. At a level of somewhere about 20,000 ft I told Norton I could only hinder him and his chances of reaching the summit if I Hied to go any further, as an intensely sore throat added greatly to the misery of tho fight. I suggested that he should climb the mountain, if ho could, by himself, and settled 'down on a sunny ledge to watch him do it. But Norton himself was not far from the end of his tether. From my seat 1 watched him slowly rise, but how slowly; and after an hour I doubt whether he had risen Bft above my level. Ho realised that a successful issue to the fight was impossible, and after a little returned. We agreed reluctantly that the game was up. On the way to the summit was a patch of loose rock where it was desirable that two fit men should be roped together; but two men more or loss “ done to the world ” were unable to hope to reach the top within a good many hours, and it was now 2.30 in tho afternoon. “A GOD’S VIEW.” So with heavy hearts, beating over 180 to tho rninuto, we returned and retraced our steps; but slowly, for even downhill movement at this level is rather hard and breathless work, and both of us required frequent rests for regaining our breath and resummoning our energy. Tho view from the topmost point that wo reached—and, indeed, all the way up—was quite beyond words for its extent and magnificence. Gyaching and Chouyo, among the highest mountains in the world, were over I,oooft beneath. Around them we, saw a perfect sea of fine peaks, all giants among mountains, all as dwarfs below us. The, splendid dome of Pursori, the finest of Everest’s satellites, was but an incident in the vast array of peak upon peak. Over the plain of Tibet a. distant range gleamed, 200 miles away. The view, indeed, was indescribable, and one simply seemed to be above everything in the world and to have a glimpse almost of a god’s view of things. But we were far from being gods ourselves, tired and breathless as_we were, the very epitome of human limitations. We revisited our high camp, and there passed our rucksacks and set off again downhill. Wo found the scree-covered slabs slow and annoying, and when wc finally reached the snowy shoulder at 25,000 ft, where going becomes easier, tho sun bad set, and we still bad 2,000 ft to negotiate in darkness. How well wo remembered the same place in 1922, when we two, with Mallory, were exerting every effort to get down the invalid Morshead to the North Col alive; but this rime I was tho invalid, and my congested throat only allowed me to breathe at a certain and all too moderate a rate. I fear that my extremely slow progress must have annoyed Norton fearfully, though, of course, he”said nothing about ’it. Flashes from our electric torch aroused the North Co! to activity, and Mallory and OdeU came up to meet us with lanterns, while Irvine brewed tea and soup in camp against our return. How we welcomed their presence as supporters in camp and contrasted our experience in 1922, when four of us returned to an empty camp and went to bed with empty stomachs! Tin’s time we reached camp at 9.30 p.m. Within an hour wo were fed, warmed, and fast asleep. Norton is still recovering from severe snow blindness, unfortunately contracted on tho climb. I can almost speak aloud again. Wc arc both rather done in, too, in general condition, but arc satisfied that wc had the weather and a good opportunity for ftio fight with our adversary. Thorn i.s nothing to complain of. We established camps; the porters played u]i well; wo obtained sleep, even at the highest (nearly 27,000 ft); wo had a gorgeous day for the climb, almost windless and Brilliantly fine, yet were unable to get to the summit. So wc have no excuse; we have been beaten in fair fight, beaten by the. height of tho mountain and by our own shortness of breath. But the fight was worth it —worth it every time —and we, shall cherish the privilege of defeat by the, world’s greatest mountain. Wo now await news of Mallory and Irvine, who to-day are making another attempt, hoping that they may reinforce the feeblo summit air by artificially-provided oxygen, and by its means be enabled to conquer the chief difficulty of reaching the summit. IMay the Genic of the Steel Bottle aid them! All of us are hoping that he may, for nobody deserves the summit more than Mallory, tho only one of onr number who has been at it for throe vears.

MALLORY'S LAST CLIMB. This ends Dr Somervell’s story. Colonel Norton, resuming his narrative, says; —“ The two attempts without oxygen failed to roach tho summit. I hope to discuss later in your columns the vexed question whether success on these lines was possible or not. In any case, I was delighted to find on my arrival at camp four on tho night of Juno 4 that Mallory had rightly determined in my absence that there must be one more attempt, and that immediately and, if possible, with oxygen. Bruce, the condition of whose heart definitely prevented him from taking part in another attempt, had already gone down to camp three to see if it were possible to supply sufficient porters to put on oxygen so as. to make the attempt with an absolutely minimum load. Tho men wore forthcoming. Mallory had already decided that the climbers to make this final assault should be himself and Irvine. Unremitting and indefatigable work which had been put in by tho latter on the most defective of the oxygen apparatus fully justified his inclusion in the party. On the morning of Juno 6 these two, with eight porters, started for camp five, intending to sleep the following night at camp six and to make the assault on tho summit to-day. Their movements arc shrouded in a mist of mystery, but one brief note reached us yesterday from their porch near the top of the North Ridge by the hand of a returning porter. It is to the, effect that Noel, with the kincma, should be on the look-out for them about the base of the, final pyramid that starts 650 ft from the top at 8 o’clock this morning. Tho returning porters report that this pair were going exceedingly strongly with oxygen yesterday. From every point of view- the situation is dramatic. One more small incident is worth noting. During the night of June 4-5 nn the North Col I was smitten with acute snow blindness, and for sixty hours was completely and absolutely blind. At 10 a.m. on Juno 6 Kingston and two porters arrived from camp three to relievo and, if possible, escort me down. I was anxious to descend, as my presence at camp four could only bo an embarrassment to Odell and Hazard, who had now taken tho place of Irvine in the role of supporters. Kingston, being unable to perfomi the miracle of restoring my sight at the moment, performed, with the help of Hazard and the two porters, another miracle. The route to North Col is admittedly an Alpine climb. T hey shepherded mo down 1,5001't of sheer ice and snow, placing my every footstep, leading mo by the baud, ami "supporting me with ropes, fixed and

unfixed, with complete security. Hazard turned back afisr roping mo from tire top of the chiomoy to the bottom, and Kingston saw <•«« tiio rest of the way into camp three. Kingston is a famous goer on a hillside, and has a limited experience of snow and ice conditions in the Pamirs; but he has never done any Alpine climbing,_ so I think, it must fte admitted that his performance was remarkable, and it was certainly one that I shall not forget in a hurry. MALLORY AND IRVINE’S FATE. Base Camp, June 11.

With tli o deepest regret I add those few lines continuing the above despatch. Mallory and Irvine perished on the mountain beyond all doubt. They were last seen by Odell from camp six going strong for the top. I havo not yet seen Odell, but estimate that this was abqut 11 in tho morning of tho Bth, and that the point reached at that time was about 28,OCOft. Nothing lias been seen or beard of them since. Odell returned to camp four that night, and until about noon on the 9tb the absence of news occasioned only anxiety, as the climbers might well have passed a night in camps five and six. At noon on the 9th Odell and two porters started from camp four and spent the night at camp five. About 1 p.m. on the lOlh Odell reached camp six, whence he signalled that there was no .sign of tho missing men. Camps five and six were under continuous observation by Hazard from camp four throughout. Those were provided with magnesium flares for distress signals, and there is no doubt that tiro climbers did not return to them. This puts any possibility of their survival out of tho question, for no one could spend two nights on tho mountain under existing conditions except in one or other of tho two high camps and live.

Tho only likely explanation of the tragedy is that there was a mountaineering accident, unconnected with questions of weather or the use of oxygen. This is borne out by my own observations four days previously_of tho nature of tho ground they were crossing when last seen. I remained at camp three, directing operations by messenger, watching for a signal through the telescope, until 5.30 in the afternoon of tho lOtli, by which time I saw Odell roach camp four safely. My condition and that of Captain Bruce, the only climber with me, precluded our reaching camp four in time to bo of any help, and, beyond a letter of instructions and the use of a system of signals, I had to give tho supporting party in camp four a free hand. They appear to have done all that was humanly possible. I should add that I myself forbade any reconnaissance beyond camp six, as the weather was extremely threatening and conditions on the mountain appeared to bo as bad as they could be, and I bad to consider the lives of the two British and three Himalayan members of the expedition who were still at nr above camp 4. I shall, of course, give you all details in my next despatch.