THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 18256, 21 April 1923, Page 13

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

VEGETABLES. The principal work in this department now will be clearing off spent crops, digging, trenching, and manuring vacant plots. Every foot should he turned up to the winter frost and rain. Tins, if promptly done, will be of great advantage to future crops. Where the late planting of cabbage and cauliflower has not been done, no time should be lost in getting them in. Early dwarf peas and broad beans may still bo sown for early picking next season. Long grasses should be kept mown for the convenience of keeping fallen leaves raked up. These will be falling in quantities from now on. Rake or sweep them up, and store them away in a pit to rot, as rotted leaves (or leaf mould) are exceedingly valuable. Even for tidiness’ sake, it is much better to keep the ground clear. Keep lawns mown and rolled. FLOWERS. The verges of flower beds and borders should be kept clipped, and the beds made clean by hoeing and raking, and removing of dead flowers and spent annuals. Continue to plant out narcissus and other bulbous plants, such as crocus, snowdrops, mas, sparaxias iris (both English and Spanish varieties), also tubers of anemones and ranunculus. Lilies are among tho most beautiful bulbous plants we have, combining as they do stateliness and grace with brilliant and delicately colored flowers. The many kinds in cultivation afford a rich choice. All are beautiful, but some are more suitable for particular -localities 'than others. Lilies may he grown in various ways. Under glass one may have lilies the greater part of the year by judicious selection and variation of the time of potting up the bulbs. In the open border one may enjoy their beauty each in their own_ season. They may be taken up when coming into flower in the border. Plunge them, roots and all, into a sufficiently large pot, with suitable"soil. Shade them for a few days, and then transfer them to flower in the greenhouse, conservatory, or balcony; and all this may be done without damage, providing they are kept watered. Culture is important, but arrangement and grouping are more so. There are lilies which will grow in almost any ordinary soil, but a good rich, loamy soil suits the greater number of them. Others want plenty of sand to keep the soil open and free; and there are kinds that will grow in any soil if it be mixed with well-rotted stable manure, leaf mould, or peaty loam. In nearly all cases lilies are the most brilliant where they can be protected from severe frosts, and tho flowers last longer if sheltered from the scorching rays of the midday ! sun. Ground that will gvojw rhododendrons successfully will grow most kinds of lilies. Manure should never be dug into-the soil to come into contact with tho bulbs, but they will flourish under it if given as a top-dressing after they have been established for a The only manure to bo dug in at planting is peat, leaf mould, and sand—that is, of course, on heavy soils requiring such addition. All the Lilium Auratum family and some others of that class do best with a little clay mixed in witli light soil. On the other hand, there are one or two, such as L. Speciosura and L. Giganteum, that are fond of manure, and L. Giganteum will revel in it. Another point well worth noting is that nearly all lilies prefer sea sand to any other for mixing in the soil. AH take it kindly, as it attracts moisture. Lilium Auratum (golden rayed), L. Candidum (white), L. Chaleidonicum (red), L. Hurnholdii (yellow spotted), L. Martagon (Turks’ caps, yellow, and white), L. Longeflorura Harris! (white), and many others are good reliable kinds. It is a good practice when planting lily bulbs of any kind to place a little broken charcoal or burnt wood ashes at the bottom of the hole for each bulb to rest upon, no matter what kind of soil one lias to contend with.

Few plants contribute so much to the beauty of the garden as a good collection of well-grown delphiniums. They are of great value from a decorative point of view, varying in height from 3ft to Bft or 9ft, and they have glorious shades of coloring, from the palest and most chaste lavender to the richest dark blues intermixed with rose, red, and pink splashes; in fact, every conceivable shade of blue one can imagine, and even red and white. Delphiniums are also noted for the variety of size and form of their individual blooms. Some are single, some semi-double, and others quite double, and all are set on spikes ranging from Ift to 6ft in length. They are most easily grown, but the difference between extra well-grown plants and those that arc indifferently grown ja immense. They are splendid objects in various positions, and may be used in various ways—in the mixed border, in masses or groups, or as one single specimen plant. They look weiDovery way. A deep friable loam mixed with well-rotted manure will grow them to perfection, and they will do on a hot sandy soil if heavily manured. Ever,- three or four years they should be lifted, divided, and replanted. This isbest done in spring, excepting with seedlings, which do well when planted out in late autumn. When It is desired to take up established plants in early autumn cut down the plants, and in two or three weeks they start a second growth—then is the time to lift them. The preparation of ground for fresh^ plantations of roses should be gone on with as soon as possible, as advised in my previous notea. THE GREENHOUSE. Chrysanthemums in pots will require a lot of attention. Bo careful to water only when required. Over-watering at this stage is nearly as bad as too little. They must not suffer from either extremes. Cinerarias should be potted on as they require a shift, though two pollings will suffice. Early-sown plants should bo ready for their final potting if not already done. Keep them still in.a sunny £nd sheltered position outside or in a cold frame, bringing them into the greenhouse when they show their flowering spikes. The hardier this plant can be grq.wn the better. Calceolarias should bo potted up into small pots or potted on as the pots become full of roots. These require a, rich and porous soil —that is, rich soil with plenty of drainage. Give them clean pots and clean crocks, and do not lot them suffer for want of water. Pot on pelargoniums, primulas, and others that require a shifty Withhold water gradually from begonias ns they go off flowering, for the purpose of ripening off the tubers for storing away for the winter. Avoid damping down the floor of the greenhouse from now onward, particularly during damp, cold weather. What is required is a warm and rather drier atmosphere as the days become colder. ANSWERS. “ Clutha.”—The apple forwarded is Beauty of Kent (poor sample). It_ ds certainly not Allington Pippin—nothing like it. It is affected very badly with apple scab. I should say there is a lot of grass or weeds growing about the tree; if so, I advise digging about or around the tree and spraying both with winter spray—red oil or something of that kind —and again in the summer, when the apples are well formed, with Bordeaux mixture. “ Canadian Thistle.”—l cannot gave you a better remedy for. getting rid~of Canadian thistle than constant digging out. It will disappear if constantly kept dug out, not allowing it to make top. Common salt will also keep it down, but it will also destroy or injure other plants that it may come in contact with. “ Anxiety.”—The leaves forwarded are affected with leaf grub,. Ycu say that the

Our contributor, a well-known gardener, will be glad to answer questions, which must be received not later than Tuesday ol each week. Advertisements lor this column must be handed in to the office before 2 p.m. on Friday.

trouble has affected your rambler roses, currants, raspberries, and strawberries. I advise you to trim off all or nearly all the leaves of your strawberry plants, burn them, and spray the plants and ground with arsenate of lead—a large teaspoonful to one gallon of water. Tie up and cut away old canes and surplus growth of the raspberry canes in the usual way, at the same time strip off remaining leaves, burn them, and spray the canes. Prune the currants and spray them. “ Apple.”—The name of the apple forwarded is Lady Henniker —a first rate apple, good for "both cooking and dessert; and a great cropper.