SIMPLER CLOTHES

Evening Post, Volume CXXXIV, Issue 105, 30 October 1942, Page 3

SIMPLER CLOTHES

WAR MEASURE

AUSTERITY DESIGNS

War Cabinet's approval to the enforcement by the Factory Controller of standard specifications to simplify the manufacture of women's and girls' outer clothing, men's, youths', and boys' outer clothing, and shirts and pyjamas, was announced today by the Minister of Supply and Munitions (Mr. Sullivan).

Mr. Sullivan said that draft specifications were widely circulated for . comment before being finally considered. The enforcement of these standard specifications was in ac-! cordance with the policy being adopted in Allied countries as a means of conserving man-power and materials. Care had been taken to ensure that the general public and the trade were not called, upon to make any sacrifices which would not.yield a corresponding gain to the war effort. MAIN TOINTS EXPLAINED. "The standard specifications for the manufacture of men's, youths', and boys' outer clothing, for example, eliminates such features as doublebreasted coats and waistcoats, excessive facings, inlays, turn-ups, or hems. It also, prohibits patch pockets, belts, pleats, or yokes, which apply mostly to sports coats. The number of pockets in coats, waistcoats, trousers, and overcoats is restricted. Pocket flaps—except in overcoats —nonfunctional buttons and buttonholes, in* eluding those on sleeve cuffs, are eliminated. The bottom widths of trousers, are restricted to 20 inches, and eviffs, extended bands, tunnel loops, pleats, and raised seams are prohibited. These restrictions, so fay as they are applicable, relate to coats, including overcoats, sports coats, blazers, waistcoats, and trousers. Hems of two inches are permitted on boys' and youths' 'trousers and on overcoat sleeves, but otherwise the maximum width of hems on the male clothing covered is H inches. "The manufacture of men's shirts and pyjames offers less scope for simplification.' The restrictions affecting shirts, for instance, are confined to such features as the elimination of canoe collars, double cuffs, pockets, slide fasteners, laced fronts, and excessive number of buttons. The only restrictions affecting pyjamas are the elmiiiation of i contrasting colour roll collars .and interlining of collars. "General restrictions In respect ot; women's and gu'ls' outer wear prohibit the manufacture of beach wear, other than regular bathing suits, but this restriction does not refer to ordinary beach frocks which may be regarded as general summer clothing. Full-length frocks are eliminated. Bridge coats, cloaks, wraps, or coatees from cottop, silk, or art silk materials will not be permitted. The same restriction applies to knitted coatees or cardigans buttoned from waist to neck, mid to knitted frocks other than those manufacture^ from imported yarn or knitted piece goods. Two-piece frocks with long coats, jackets, or boleros are also eliminated, but this restriction, of course, does not apply to the ordinary costume "or suit consisting of a short coat and skirt. . "Excessively full sleeves, handfinished ' seams and edges, yokes of double material (except for school tunics), tiers, belts, and cuffs are restricted. Skirt lengths up to 42in hip measurement are required to be not legs than 15in from the floor, and not less than lOin in the case of skirts which exceed 42in hip measurement. The sweep or bottom width of frocks must not exceed 78in, and in the case of unattached skirts ,must not exceed 58in for sizes up to and including 39in hip measurement and 72in for sizes ex- ; ceedihg 39in. j "Similar restrictions apply to over- j coats, except that the 15in floor clearance applies to sizes up to and including 42in hip measurement and the lOin limit to sizes exceeding this. The bottom width or sweep must not exceed 72in for sizes up to and including 39in hip measurement, 82in for sizes over 39in. up to and including 42in, and 88in for bigger sizes. "The feature restrictions fo knitted wear relate mainly to the elimination of certain types of collars, trimmings, belts, and cuffs, which, in the circumstances,' make extravagant demands on man-power or materials. The re^ strictions applying to women's slacks are very similar to those which apply to men's sports trousers. EXEMPTIONS. "In general," continued the Minister, "exemptions apply to industrial working or waterproof clothing made from cotton materials, robes and vestments required by the rules of religious or other orders or institutions as may be approved, regulation naval,' military, or air force clothing, bridal gowns, garments for theatrical productions not used for any other purpose, garments for young children, garments for persons of unusual height, abnormal size, or affected by physical deformities.

"It has been stated elsewhere that all trimmings associated with clothing, particularly women's, arc to he eliminated. This is not so. As a matter of fact, many trimmings can be effected without the use of additional material or waste of manpower, and to restrict this type, of trimmings would only result in waste of off-cuts which can be used for this purpose, Care has been taken, therefore, to ensure that the simplification of clothing does not involve unnecessary restriction of trimmings." The Minister emphasised that the restrictions apply to the manufacture of the garments covered in the specifications even though the material was purchased retail and made by private dressmakers and so on. All persons engaged in the manufacture and production of the garments concerned must comply with the terms of the specifications forthwith.----"I confidently anticipate/ said the Minister, "that the restrictions will be complied with in a spirit of patriotism. A perusal. of the brief outline of the restrictions which I have given will indicate that the sacrifices which are being called for are not particularly heavy and that there will still be adequate scope for vavidty in design. It is our duty to ensure that there is no waste of effort."

The Minister paid a tribute to the affected trade interests, and to all others who have co-operated in formulating the specifications, and said he was particularly pleased that there was a general recognition that the enforcement of: the specifications was a necessary contribution 'to our war economy.