"IT'S AN ILL WIND . . ."

Evening Post, Volume CXXX, Issue 108, 2 November 1940, Page 15

"IT'S AN ILL WIND .. ."

BRITISH DESIGNERS' GREAT OPPORTUNITY

When France became a Nazi stronghold British dress designers saw opening before them the biggest opportunity of their career. What Paris had been to the world of fashion they decided London would be in the future, and backed by British representatives of American buyers, the London staffs of Worth, Paquin, Molyneux. Hartnell, Bachasse, Victor Stiebel, etc., each displayed exclusive models for the coming season.

As was the custom of the Haute Couture in Paris, they have by agreement adopted the same length of skirt, otherwise each house gives full play to its own individuality and the scheme has already met with great success..

British velvets were featured by all the designers and a charming afternoon

model by Norman Hartnell was in black velvet with all-over narrow tucks worked in a diamond or quilting pattern. This proves an admirable decoration for any material giving distinction without distracting the simple line. The neck, hem, and sleeves finished with points, and a narrow stitched; belt defined the waistline and ii was quite untrimmed.

SPECIALTY COATS,

Yet another group of exporters have specialised in the tailored suits and coats made of those distinctly British materials so popular in America, such as Scotch homespuns, West of England cloth, Orkney, Shetland, and Cumberland tweeds, etc.

The models chosen were shown at a parade at the Dorchester Hotel, each one with a specially designed label as a guarantee of quality and design.

"Travel" coats are a great featux-e with American buyers, and there were some Lovely models in lamb's wool, camel hair, cashmere fleece, as well as tweeds and smooth cloth.

Special feature? were well built up shoulders (not fullness, but shaped and padded), moderate length, fullness achieved by flares and pleats, important pockets, and distinctive colours. The one I have sketched was in pastel green fleece, an ideal coat for your coming spring. You will note

the design at the back with yoke and fullness from inverted pleats, caught in by the sash belt., This coat also looks well without belt and unbuttoned as wrap to wear over tennis frocks, etc.

The hat of rucked ribbon in a russet tan was matched by bag shoes and gloves. This new tan colour was also used with grey and biege with great success.

Suits showed less pronounced shoulders than the coats, and a small velvet collar and turn back cuffs being new attarctive details, with high buttoning, both centre f front and double-breasted.

Colour continues to be most important and two or three shades of one colour are often included in one outfit.

Again light green top coat over a darker green suit will have a blouse of that lovely bell heather mauve, gorse gold or perhaps sporting pink. E. Ruth Sibley.