FEMININE REACTIONS TO WAR

Evening Post, Volume CXXIX, Issue 15, 18 January 1940, Page 14

FEMININE REACTIONS TO WAR

LONDON, November 30. I have had a fascinating glimpse into i, the women's reactions to war from the various provincial towns, and their attitude to the dress question, which is affecting so many important trades. I mentioned in an earlier letter that Victor Stiebel —one of London's famous dress designers—was taking a duplicate of his new dress collection to the provinces, and I have just been discussing with him the results of the first tour in Northern and Midland cities.

Everywhere he found women inter-

ested in and appreciative of his models. Interested and cheerful about clothes as ever, and although they have no use for as many clothes as they had before they are anxious to carry on with buying when given an opportunity. He discovered quite definitely that today very few women are changing into even a simple dinner dress in the evening. At most, they will buy a grand but practical house coat. All the women are doing some sort of war work, and with little leisure their first need is suits, by ■which I mean all sorts of suits, and simple dresses with a coat to match or create an ensemble scheme. They all love colour, and are sick to death of black frocks and the blackout! This week this designer goes to the West Country, which includes such conservative towns as Bath and Cheltenham—a different countryside and a different sort of people—so their reactions will be interesting by way of contrast. PARIS CARRIES ON. When Paris produced mid-season collections in the centre of a y/artime,

FEW WOMEN CHANGE FOR DINNER

season the dressmaking world was enormously cheered.

Last week, Norman Hartnell showed his second collection of models for this season, and he had put especial emphasis on the clothes we all need — gay, smart, practical ensembles that will carry one over any hour of the day. Incidentally, Norman Hartnell, who is the Queen's dressmaker, is designing dresses for the concert parties sent to France to entertain the troops. His super-Pierrette costumes for Leslie Henson's troupe of "Gaieties" should delight the khaki-weary eyes of the fighting men, who certainly make the most appreciative audience in the world. The present fashion for hooded coats is • particularly suitable for our current season. Actually, this vogue was originated last spring and summer, and extensively used for holiday coats and beach wraps. The hoods fall back gracefully, making a softly -draped collar. They look absolutely fascinating in pastel colours, the hoods lined with a darker velvet or a short-haired fur, such as beaver, lamb or lapin. BRIMMED BEAUTY. ' Take advantage of the summer weather to wear a wide-brimmed hat for important occasions. They were infinitely smart last summer, and are the ideal complement to the ruffly petticoat frocks and wide, swinging skirts that look so charming in summer fabrics. The modish small-fitting crown of this year's hats makes the brim look even wider by comparison—and they are usually anchored to the head by means of elastic ribbons or veiling, depending on the style of trimming on top. Flowers are smartest when used as a single posy, preferably at the.centre front as in .the model sketched. This was-of braid in dark blue with pink roses, the plain trimming enhancing the good lines of the brim which casts flattering shadows over the eyes. My second sketch shows a natural coloured leghorn or crinoline, with the fashionable lace ruffling in the same shade, and a dark velvet ribbon emphasising the original little crown. This type of wide hat with its tailored chic is vastly attractive with a dark summer frock in some sheer material, such as chiffon or georgette crepe. A touch of the lace ruffling on the dress is attractive—a collar, cuffs to short sleeves, or a pocket—but only let it.be a touch, not all three on one frock. White achieved supreme elegance last summer for formal wear. Not the fussy white—but the exquisite tucked or pleated little frock, with a draped bodice, close-fitting waistline, and outdoor length skirt. It is ideal as a background for coloured accessories— particularly a matching hat and glove set. «, RUTH SIBLEY,