UNSCALED AS YET

Evening Post, Volume CXXVII, Issue 111, 13 May 1939, Page 20

UNSCALED AS YET

ELUSIVE MOUNTAIN TOPS

"Unclimbed New Zealand," by John Pascoe, is undoubtedly the finest book on mountaineering in New Zealand that has appeared for many years. It is not praising it too high in stating that it ranks next "The Conquest of Mount Cook and Other Climbs." by Freda dv Faur, which appeared in 1915, and is now in its second impression. The book deals mainly with climbs and exploration in the Southern Alps, special attention being devoted to the valleys and ranges between the Lewis Pass in the north and the Mount Cook region in the south.

Starting only as recently as 1928 the author and his companions traversed the Otira, Rab;aia, Mathias, Wilberfox-ce, Hawdon, Bealy, Whitcombe. Wilkinson, i and Rangitata Valleys, many of them I for the first time, and from these ascended so many virgin peaks as to constitute almost a record. With only the Easter and Christmas and New Year holidays at their disposal it is surprising 'that they accomplished so much, and more so that in the whole of their expeditions they were not accompanied by guides. In accomplishing all these journeys they were always faced with the difficulty of access due to the remoteness of their objectives, and frequently had to contend with that greatest menace to successful mountaineering in New Zealand, bad weather, which involves real danger in the fording of heavily-flooded rivers, and up on the heights, extreme cold, high winds, and reduced visibility to the degree.'.of making it perilous to move. In these circumstances the author and his companions had to spend many a night out in wholly exposed positions, and had several narrow escapes from drowning while crossing flooded rivers.

In 1934, after three previous unsuccessful attempts, Pascoe" and A. P. Thomson and J. G- Mafcolmson, accomplished their ■ greatest feat in making the first ascent and complete traverse of the difficult Mount Evans (8612 ft), a notable achievement. They spent a miserable night out on the Red Lion col, and reached the McKenzie camp after having been 30 hours out, -They then had difficulty in getting out, having to endure a severe blizzard on the Bracken snowfield, which necessitated another night out and made a successful issue doubtful. The whole story is modestly told.

The-author enhances the value of his book by giving much that is historical, particularly of Samuel Butler's country, of "Erewhon" fame, and also most useful information regarding the science of' crossing rivers. But the most notable feature of a wholly excellent book is the very beautiful illustrations. These include many notable photographic studies, and place the book at once in the class that should be in every mountaineer's and Naturelover's library. There are also two. sketches and three,.very good maps. The publishers are George Allen and Unwin, Ltd., London.