Chat from Paris

Evening Post, Volume CXXVII, Issue 88, 15 April 1939, Page 19

Chat from Paris

(By Margret Manet.)

It is always wise to prepare for winter's weather long before it is upon you. Paris "pre-views" make it easy to be wise in this respect but since we are not all fortunate enough to live in this most enchanting of cities, it is wisdom to learn the trick of analysing and valuing fashions for what they are worth.

This is actually an extraordinarily simple business. Any line that breaks away sharply from that of the previous year you can be sure will sec the season through and become even an extreme of popularity.

On the other hand beware Of every compromise. For the most part—in this mid-season pi the fashion year— they are a snare and a delusion. They are the tentative gesture of the designer who does not quite, know his job. They will interest you because, perhaps, last year's vogues suited your type and you are glad not to have to relinquish them entirely and make quite other experiments.

This is all very well. But, believe me, before a moon has gone you will regret your decisions. They will let you down badly, for they will not have come to stay. DEFIANT EXTREMES. Last year, for instance was quite definitely noticeable as one in which common sense dominated for winter. It will not be rash therefore to prophecy that some degree of irresponsibility or even -defiance will follow now. Already, in my opinion, this is evident. Last year's use of fur and leather was particularly sane. and sensible. This year's, then—not at all. Though the use of these two materials has reached a hitherto unheard-of degree of popularity, owing largely to the truly inspired activities of the manufacturers as much as the designers, still there is little practical wisdom in most of the designs.

Take for instance the long narrow lengths of blue fox that twist in whirls

and loops to make the new capes. They are entirely fascinating, but for no occasion are they of the slightest practical use. Fur lengths that bind the arms in serpentlike wreaths to elbow. Fur that panels you narrowly, back and front, leaving sides at the mercy of the blizzard. Fur in squares that is placed in patch pockets, high or low, in narrowest strips that zig-zag, rather like forked lightning across your jacket front or down your arms.

Yoked effects that extend to sleeves giving the exaggerated width and squareness that seems to be necessaryare practical enough. One long coat model cut with the full straight flare is of dark green cloth with yoke and upper part of sleeves (so that the line goes straight across) of rich brown beaver. Beaver too, in simple squares, for low patch pockets. ■

A short-length jacket with skirt—that is. of loose sack cut, slightly flared, and hanging from shoulder —is of mustard tweed, with narrow lines making a large check in dark green. This is yoked, with upper part of sleeves, with black broadtail with the addition of a collar also that is broad, crossed over and yoke deep. Buttons are of dark green, though, personally, I feel they could be more effective black. CLIPPED AND COLOURED. Sealskin is to be used a good deal — clipped very close and dyed in half a dozen enchanting new shades. Black, however, and blue sufficed to make an enthusiastically youthful coat, accompanied by a halo of the black seal lifted high in front. The coat was contrived of a cloth top, moulded to the figure, innocent of pockets and belted with itself. The jacket "skirt," commencing rather low on the hip was entirely of seal. Entire sleeves —and a diminutive flat- rounded collar—were also of the fur. All that part of the body which might demand protection against the North winds was carefully neglected, though, of course, by its very novelty, it is an instant success.

I have sketched for you one of the charming "impracticals." It is of a model in saffron wool cloth on which black (again the vogueish clipped seal) makes a delightfully decorative contrast. Front, skirt and part of the sleeves are of cloth, the skirt crossing over in front and well to the left side, in the manner of the riding flap. The back, collar, and under portion of the sleeves and belt that crosses through the front buckle are cut in one. Note the interesting zig-zagged line of the side seams. Cuffs that hold in to the wrist the fullness of the sleeves and hem strip that accentuated the youthful skirt flare are also of narrow black seal. A seal cap is tilted and decked with a single perpendicular saffron quill.