THE CHARM OF THIRTY YEARS AGO

Evening Post, Volume CXXVII, Issue 17, 21 January 1939, Page 19

THE CHARM OF THIRTY YEARS AGO

Sweet and lovely are the late summer styles lor the truly young.*.- -So far as clothes "expression goes Paris seems to be divided in her ideas, That is,; that although all the forecasts of autumn vogues appear to offer extremes in elegance; and sophistication, there remain still from the simplicity •that abounded at time of the Queen's visit, a separate modest English ' enihusiasm.

liany women, even among our

models of chic, discovered then that the new and simpler ways of dramatisation suited their type excellently and are loath to relinquish them. But, above all, that period seems to offer endless suggestion for the solving of the "dressing your daughter" problem. Nothing has so typified the loveliness and charm of thirty years ago as the evening, dance and dinner gown that Paris has now for the "bright young thing." Curiously it seems to convey to every wearer a character of its own and "a shy mien that belonged to our mother's heyday, and was vastly successful.

The model gown that I have sketched for you is ideal, for dinner or the informal occasion! It is of the kind of blue that goes naturally with pinks of the rose variety. It is of crepe with the simplest of slenderly flared skirts and a cunningly cut bodies thai, achieves ...both the fitted and the swathed effect. Half way up the underarm 7 seams the bodice front is gathered as fully as possible and .draped up centrally to a loop that holds the folds in place; The decol-

letage is square both at back and front.

THE USE OF JUBBON

From, a flat waist bow or rose .velvet ribbon, with flat dependent ends of irregular length, two bands pass in a deep V over the. shoulders to tie also in front and hang to near hem. Full .tiny sleeves are self high and banded narrowly. The waist, you will notice, is not stressed.

This mode is popular in half a dozen variations. One in palest green has the bodice gathers caught with a large rosette. No sleeves at all are used- but a scarf-width swathe [passes over either shoulder to hang in a swathed, circular cape behind. The V thus formed in front is held with a large rosette, and these occur, flung indiscriminately, on the great folds of the skirt. Another variation is the cutting of the skirt with a flared front panel, and an enormous flare is inserted at centre back that gives the effect of extreme fullness caught there. NET HOODS FOR EVENING Charming, too, and youthful are the hooded capes and shawls that gracefully drape the head and shoulders and even sweep the floor. . For the dark-haired beauty undoubtedly the sari scarf with its lovely embroidered borders is a right accompaniment for the lovely simple frock of one colour. But for the debutante the diaphanous yards of tulle that compose the full-length cape is her very wise choice whenever possible. Some of these are wide-hooded, enveloping the coiffure in a crisp transparent daintiness.* A ribbon draws it together at the throat.

Part of the interest of this fashion is that experiment is made with new colours. I have seen a golden brown make delightful colour contrast with a cyclamen gown. Tan with all tones of blue and a rich mustard gold ideal with rose.

, • Lace is used—the lovely sparse-

patterned kind that is delicacy itself for fichu-like capes that lop casually in front and hang in wide crisp ends. These, of course, usually accompany a gown composed in part of lace to match. One such is of palest shell pink georgette overlain with round upon round of flat frills of graded widths, wide to hem. Insertion is also used in this .manner, frequently and very effectively near-navy blue with pink or tan, and black, of course, with the pastel tones for the older woman.

(By Margret Manet)