STRAWBERRY CULTURE

Evening Post, Volume CXXVI, Issue 150, 22 December 1938, Page 29 (Supplement)

STRAWBERRY CULTURE

When grown commercially strawberries are renewed every third year, but for garden cultivation beds may remain for an indefinite period, pro-! vided the runners are thinned out so that the-l growth does not become too overcrowded. The soil must be well drained, or the plants will suffer from loss of roots. For this reason deep working of the ground is necessary, with adequate provision for surplus moisture to get away freely; . / Strawberries being surface rooting, the soil should be of such a nature as to be easily worked! A.heavy soil which sets hard is unsuitable, being impossible to keep open without damage to the roots of the plants. When preparing the ground plenty of humus should be incorporated, and this to a good depth,, as it assists in keeping the ground open and fertile. Lime shouldi be avoided, as it is generally "recognised that this' crop prefers an Scid-soii. A dressing of superphosphate at the rate of 4oz per square yard may be given. Wood ashes are also good, but should not bi : used in excess as they contain lime. " , Nitrogenous manures, such as nitrate of'soda or sulphate of ammonia, are useful, but if given in excess promote leaf growth at the expense of fruit. Sulphate of ammonia is slow in its action, while the effects of nitrate of soda are immediately felt. Nitrate of soda is best withheld until the plants commence to flower. 'Another important matter in the preparation' "of the beds is that they are reasonably free from weeds and weed seeds. Such things as couch grass or sorrel will'ruin a crop, as will white clover—the roots becoming tangled in with the strawberry plants and eventually choking them out altogether. It is a good plan to dig the plot in the summer and to cultivate it at fre-, queht intervals for the purpose of destroying seedling weeds as they ger~iin?>tp "t.nrt off with a clean bed

is half the battle. Strawberries may be planted either in autumn or in early spring, the latter being the better time probably, as when planted in the autumn the plants? have to remain throughout the winter months in cold wet soil, and there is always a danger of their dying out.' 1 METHOD' OF PLANTING. For garden plots beds may be marked out to hold four r^ows and the plants set one foot apart each way. All runners should be removed and each season when the plants have finished bearing earth should be drawn up around them, thus giving new soil to the crowns from1 which the roots start. . Heavy manuring and fertilising is necessary too under this system, but the requirements of the plants can readily be given by means of artificial manures lightly worked in round them. As previously stated nitrate of soda is very quick in action and encourages leaf growth; If the plants are slow to come away an application may. be given, but plants which grow freely should not be given this stimulant until blossoms appear. Nitrate of soda is best given in liquid form at the rate of one ounce to. three gallons of water, each plant receiving about a pint. The beds should be watered both before and after application. Mulching is necessary to keep the roots cool, to prevent the fruit from being splashed with mUd during heavy rains, arid also to keep the fruit off the soil. It ' should be applied before flowering begins. Any strawy material is suitable, but grass or hay usually contains too much seed. Pine needles are good, as they are free from weed seeds, and being short, are easily arranged alont the rows and round the plants. A correspondent asks when the runners should bt removed. They should be taken off as they appear. If taken one or two at a time they pull .oft quite easily, but if a handful is taken at a time the whole plant wHI orobably be pulled out.