CHINESE PILGRIMS

Evening Post, Volume CXXV, Issue 149, 27 June 1938, Page 10

CHINESE PILGRIMS

TO A FAMOUS SHRINE AN ANNUAL CLIMB The Canterbury pilgrimage of Chaucer's tales has a Chinese counterpart in the annual pilgrimage up the slopes of Miao Feng Shan, some seventeen miles north of Peking, writes ! Bertha Gardiner from Peking to the "New York Times." This year there is a division of opinion as to whether the pilgrimage will be bigger or smaller than usual, owing to unsettled conditions. A newly-formed self-defence corps has been organised under Japanese auspices, wijh Chinese villagers learning to combat the numerous bandits who prey on villages near the famous shrine.

Hundreds of thousands ascend the peak every spring, some prostrating themselves every few steps, others kneeling constantly. Many walk the entire distance of fifteen miles each way, while wealthy pilgrims are carried up the slopes in sedan chairs, the Chinese name for which means "moun-tain-climbing tigers." Three or four bearers carry, each chair, and are paid three Chinese dollars among them—about 4s 6d. Up and ever upwards winds the steep path, paved with uneven rocks worn smooth by the millions of feet which pass over them every year. Many pilgrims carry bedding and food, some packing them on burros and others on their own backs. Many wealthy families, trade guilds, and religious societies contribute to the pilgrimage, providing tea, salt, food, and copper utensils for the free use of 'all pilgrims. Lamps are set up to light the path at night for those who wish to avoid the heat of the day in climbing.

EARNINGS ON THE WAY.

Sewing of torn clotnes, mending of shoes worn out by the rocky paths, and repairing of broken rice bowls are done along the way by pilgrims who thus earn a little towards their expenses. There is a • gaiety and friendliness among all-comers, a free comradeship of the road which unites •rich and poor alike In an appreciation of Nature's beauty and in paying homage to the gods.

A Chinese commentary reads, "Innumerable men, incalculable Incense, burned by men; the purple smoke becomes a. canopy and the red flame shines to heaven." Certain days are so crowded that the four-foot pathway is insufficient for the pilgrims and they scramble all over the hillsides in their climbing.

Travelling troupes of actors, boxers, acrobats, and musicians provide en-, tertainment for the wayfarers and story tellers ply their art for eager listeners, just as In Chaucer's day. Beggars, too, line the sides of the road, stretching forth their hands for alms and calling out, "Biches and honour on the way up, peace for you on the way down." There are several temples along the way, where one may offer incense and stop for rest and hot tea. Pilgrims carry bundles of Incense, which are burned one by one at all stations. Attendants wait to light the incense, the old faces of some of them wrinkled and bronzed from many summers' suns.

Big earthenware vats are outside, from which the chair bearers dip cool water to refresh themselves after their arduous work. A bronze bell, covered with ancient Chinese characters, stands in the courtyard, to be rang on the arrival of faithful pilgrims, who thus announce their presence to the tutelary god. Each temple is surrounded by a high whitewashed wall, enclosing the spacious precincts within. Courtyards set with lovely shade trees, vistas of the slopes below, and wonderful old stone figures make each one a beauty spot. AFTER FIVE HOURS. At the end of five hours' walking at last the top is reached. Ching Ting, "Golden Top," is the name given the summit by the Emperor K'ang Hsi, it is said. It is indeed a golden moment when one reaches it after the long, hot climb. Several temples are arranged about the central one, honouring the "First Mother of the Azure Clouds," chief goddess worshipped by the pilgrims.

Shrines to other goddesses are there: those of sons and grandsons, of pimples and measles, of letters, of riches, of medicine, of life and death. All are to be honoured by the faithful. On the terrace is a beautiful bronze incense burner, beside a white marble dagoba with bas-relief carving glistening in the sunshine. Groups of Chinese co-eds in modern, streamline shorts and overalls are photographed with miniature cameras by boys in cork helmets, while their elders drink tea inside.

The temple dates from Ming times, erected during the reign of Yung Lo, .builder of present-day Peking,

Going down is easier than the ascent, except for the sedan chair riders, who are carried backwards to prevent their falling out. They must hold their necks to prevent too much jolting. At last the bottom is reached, leaving Miao Feng Shan behind, mysterious and holy as ever, awaiting the next pilgrimage and the next year.

SHIPPING AGREEMENT AUSTRALIAN AND JAPANESE COMPANIES (Received June 27, 9.15 a.m.) OSAKA, June 28. A tentative agreement for two years has been reached between the Eastern Australian Steamship Company and the Nippon Yusen Kaisha providing for 70 per cent, of the gross profits on freight to be paid into pool accounts and the remaining 30 per cent. Into the independent accounts of the respective firms.