London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXXV, Issue 148, 25 June 1938, Page 19

London Fashion Notes

Specially Written for "Th« Port."

LONDON, May 28. j The London season has a charm of gaiety and colour that is entirely individual. Other cities have their attractions and interests, but the social season of London has no counterpart in the world today. The Royal Courts still give a prestige to those who are commandrd to attend them that is prized in our democratic Empire, while the influence and interest of our youthful King and Queen are a very real bond with their people in'these days of shattered ideals. Debutante parties, both in private houses and restaurants, bring exciting opportunities for wearing new fashions, and more than one young girl's debut has been made memorable by the attendance of the King and Queen at her coming out dance. In spite of brilliant sunshine during the last few weeks, a north-east wind I has made the wearing of furs a necesi sity. Silver fox has become so overpopular that it is interesting to note that fashion leaders are forsaking it for blue fox (a smoky beige shade), when the colour scheme permits, handsome wraps of skunk, and, of course, I dyed ermine and Persian lamb.

DETAILS ARE IMPORTANT. Mrs. Fellowes, who is a special dress exponent, is never tempted into dress eccentricities. When I saw her this week her elegant black frock and hat were the sort of clothes chosen by many other smart women in London, Paris, and New York. It is her way of wearing them that has turned her into a fashion legend, and it is little things, like her new curled coiffure on the top of her head, that give her an arresting charm. The adjustment of a veil can turn a very simple hat into an unusual creation, especially this season when women are experimenting with yards of veiling of every description. Unusual belts, either as to colour, depth, or material, continue to focus attention on the waist line, and. a deep beltmany of them shaped above and below the waist—gives the corseted look that pervades so many of this season's models. Squared-up • shoulders continue to please the smart woman, except when [the cuffs flare out very widely and.are trimmed with fur or feathers, as m many evening coats, both long and short. Then the sleeves fit the shoulders and the coat clings to the body as far as the waist line, to contrast with the fullness of the sleeves and hem. Bright-coloured woollen wraps for evening wear have been a feature of ithe recent season, and are a practical 'suggestion for the moderate dress allowance. These cut full length, whether on coat or cape lines. These cloth coats in soft woollens or tweeds were given distinction by their arresting colours and good lines. Coral red, fitting the figure and flaring at the hem line with wideshouldered sleeves, and a tiny mink collar is the sort of thing that looks exceedingly smart over a dinner gown or full evening dress. Emerald green, with gold bead and metal thread embroideries on collar, and wide lapels, and gold star buttons makes a striking coat. Turquoise green woollen with sable, at the throat and wrists is the sort of colour scheme to become any woman. SEQUINS AND NET. Net is one of the favourite materials for evening dresses, and is partly responsible for the enormous success of

the full picturesque dress. This type of dress has been adapted for tall and short women, in the same way as it is make to serve good and bad figures.

If you are slim, the best style combines the figure moulding bodice to the hips, with the fullness from there mounted over a: very tight slip.

Sequins are another popular fashion, and the combination of net and sequins is particularly good, but the sequins should be used to give a dramatic touch, not just a scattering of brilliance with no definite design. Sometimes the entire fitted bodice is made of coat of mail sequin, or heavy sequin embroideries. This may reach over the hips, and even continue in a pointed panel down the front, with the full net skirt springing from • the hip lines. Dinner jacket suits'have the fronts and shoulders heavily encrusted with metal thread and sequins, in gold, silver, or brilliant colourings.

At the mid-season collections several gowns of lace had the pattern overtraced with sequins. These made long, clinging dresses with a slight flare about the feet. My sketch illustrates how sequins used with a dramatic touch can create a very smart design. Made of, black net, lightly spangled with black sequins, the shaped sequin, bands at the hips and, bordering the decolletage emphasise "corseted line of the bodice.

This' would be copied in other colours most successfully, and, in fact, I have seen it done in bright midnight blue, and the effect was enchanting. The white fur wrap shows the last thing in shoulder capes, with its yoke and gathers and dipping point at the back. E. RUTH SIBLEY.