FROCKS AND SUITS FOR EVERY MOOD

Evening Post, Volume CXXV, Issue 7, 10 January 1938, Page 14

FROCKS AND SUITS FOR EVERY MOOD

The Paris, landscape these last weeks has been so cluttered with international Glamour Girls that you combed them out of your, hair and brushed them off: your best suit, writes Bettina Bedwell for ;the "Sari Francisco Chronicle." I didn't step into any of the Big League dressmaking places once without practically falling over them.

I'm not talking about small fry, but such big timers as the Duchess of Windsor and the Duchess of Kent, in the nobility class; Marlene Dietrich, Constance Bennett, and Ruth Chatterton, from movieland; Mrs. Harrison Williams, among the socialities from overseas, and ladies like Baroness de Rothschild and adorable little Princess Karam of international society.

They all shopped. Paris is having a rich season in clothes, and the dressmakers' cash registers click to the quick tempo of 1929 again. The big milliners' salons look like a bargain basement, and so on right through the most expensive jewellers. Marlene Dietrich's Paris orders made it look as if she were trying to top her last year's record oi 60 trunkfuls She is looking more beautiful than ever, and has been getting around everywhere. There's a woman who understands herself, and who picks her clothes with an assurance which cannot be bettered by any of the Best Dressed. It's too bad she doesn't choose her own clothes for the movies she acts in. THREE TYPES. Roughly, Marlene'o. new '. Paris clothes can be divided into three parts: One part boyish, not to say mannish; one part Greek—remote, classic, and exquisite—and one part woman of the world, the latest idol of ■ the stylemakers. Alix, the drapery and line genius, made Marlene's Greek clothes. She has one gown in three versions—in black velvet, In dark green, and in plum colour. The drapery begins around the left shoulder and sleeve, and winds up at the hem of the skirt, Which has yards and yards of material in the front.

The cap that goes with this frock Is made of tulle covered by felt corkscrew, curls, and is the colour of the dress. Open gold sandals' are worn with it, ; ■~.■"'. ■ : Another Alix frock, that Marlene Dietrich ordered is made of very sheer black silk jersey, and is held up by faith, one would think. The drapery is masterly, and leaves no doubt about the beautiful femininity of the person inside. But don't ask me to describe it, for whence it cometh or whither it goeth is just one of those mysteries that baffle master minds. ■ Alix has designed a whole flock ol other clothes for Hollywood's best dressed. (in private life), but I must hurry on to some of the other things. Marlene ordered three suits of pyjamas from Schiaparelli among other wonderful clothes. They are to garb her boyish moods when she's at: home among intimate 'riends. One ensemble is made of black velvet that never wrinkles, and costs a-plenty. A jacket that fits like skin is embroidered in pearl embroidery at the front of the shoulders and on the pockets. The tailored trousers are attached to a lowcut bodice. FOR EVENING. Schiaparelli also made, Marlene an evening gown of black crepe that has armlets of Peruvian embroideries that you slap on over your bare arms just for the fun of it These embroideries also make a full-length looped panel at the back. At Paquin's, Dietrich ordered a dar ing and at the same time modest black velvet evening gown with long sleeves. It buttons all the way up to the chin in front, while at the back there is practically nothing but bare flesh just to the waistline. ' The movie star ordered a number ol fur coats and worldly woman ensembles, among them being one made of striped gold brocade, the very wide stripes being in most of the colours of the rainbow. To slip over this .she has a purple velvet evening cloak, which is lined with the rainbow striped brocade of the dress, Marlene likes the high hats that the Paris millinery experts are showing, and ordered a dozen of them in different versions. She is one of the few women who don't look scared to death under one of these towering structures. She has headdresses or hats to go with almost every one of her new ensembles.