Chat From Paris

Evening Post, Volume CXXIV, Issue 69, 18 September 1937, Page 19

Chat From Paris

(By Margret Manet)

Paris is under the spell of her long evenings. It is an enchantment that half thft world has shared—the slant of yellow sunlight in the Champs Elysee, the long purple shadows of the Tdoj's. anc then perhaps the seeming fall of stars the city is, seen from the lofty galleries of Mont Martre. To climb the long uneven steps is the better way, and not to look, and then to emerge suddenly from the un-

even cobbled lanes and find it—Paris twilight, horizonless and stretching ivan far beiOW to highest Heaven—the same ethereal blue. It is an adventure worth making—and spurning a car for. Paris in spring is by far too precious to motor in, if you would know her. So, for your evening adventure, you choose very carefully both your companion and your garb—for, if you would keep the enchantment, both must be right. TWILIGHT TAILLEUR. Have I made you sufficiently romantic to thread the streets beside your cavalier.? You. are dressed in an even-

WHEN EVENING COMES

ing gown and coatee done in the new Faccone-stripe polka dot material. It is of deepest night blue and the dots shine dimly white, so that you move like a deepening shadow on .the night. The gown is sleeveless and cut with tailored austerity. Two folks of the contrasting white cross in front to fill the almost waist-deep V. The skirt, fitted to hips and thighs, lifts in a point to meet it. A centre seam gives the long slender line and the hem fullness is achieved by discreet flaring. The gown is backless and squared at the waist.

The sleeves of the coatee are set in with just sufficient crispness of line to suggest ,an older day than ours. A seeming narrow belt and revers in the contrasting white are in actuality part of the coatee, and are matched with seeming-cuffs. . If.you wish to play the part you must note carefully the medieval Simplicity of the coiffure. A LEAFY LABYRINTH. Another evening garb that could be successfully dared is a suit of Chinese green lace, patterned with myriad tiny dark leaves. But, no, it is not a suit—it is a cleverly-contrived onepiece that is worn over a low cut and sheath-like slip of gold. The effect is to make you as elusive as the shadows. The "coatee," which, of course, is really bodice, is fitted and plain to a round neck and fastens centre front with twenty-one dull gold buttons.

In other mood —and with car in attendance—Chanel would offer you again a blue;—deep as midnight and in the Paris-favoured net. The gown is slim' fronted and high to the throat where, it is captured and.held by a neck band of ribbon from , which flares an enormous Pierrette ruff of net, wide and loose in its folds and in a lighter blue.

SOPHISTICATION OB SIMPLICITY.

The . gown is very sleeveless and backless, bands of the ribbon sweeping from the neck in front, under the arms to a, low centre back. At the back, too, the skirt develops tremendous fulness which is controlled by deep shirring running up to the central waist point. This, is essentially more sophisticated and demands a high or front curled coiffure.

If you are young and have no desire beyond being your sweet self, a slender model in eire cloque is undoubtedly the one for you. Beyond being backless and sleeveless, it has only its high draped neckline for charm. It is in palest grey, with a careless sash of mustard chiffon looped at the side and hanging unevenly to the hem. It is a thing of such delicious and individual grace.

Gravel is a colour term that conveys all sorts of tones. There is the grey gravel, and a reddish hue. An attractive compromise in the millinery salon is a felt in the two tints, showing a very new abrupt side movement accentuated by a pair of shaded green and brown quills, pierced through the brim and crown.

As a change from knitting, today's design is for a lacy openwork crochet jumper, which will be found just right for-the summer days, and,adorable'for the young figure, is this lacy openwork jumper. Worked in treble and double crochet throughout, it can be made by an amateur.. The directions are too long to give in full, and will be continued next week.

The pattern has horizontal bars, each'nine rows of treble crochet running across both back and front of jumper. These are divided by a pretty . pattern of shell design, also running horizontally, and half the width of the treble crochet bars. The short sleeves carry the same pattern. The square neck is attractively finished with a border of the shell design. Crochet has an advantage over' knitting in being much more quickly, worked.

Materials.—lo ounces wool, string wool, No. 13 crochet hook, eight buttons. Pearl twist knitting silk could be used instead of the string wool. Obtainable in many lovely pastel shades and goes 4oz to each skein. So two and a half skeins would be required. Measurements.—Length from top of shoulder, 20in. Width aU round- at un-der-arm, 36in. Length of sleeve from underarm 3in.

Abbreviations.—Ch. chain, tr. treble, d.c. double crochet, s.c. single crochet, sp. space.

Work at a tension. to produce 1 tr. 1 eh. five times to an inch in width, and 4 rows to an inch in height. The correct size and firmness of fabric will only be obtained by strictly following this instruction.

The Front.—Make 167 eh. Ist Row.—Miss 4 eh., 1 tr. in 1 eh., * 1 eh., miss.l. eh., 1 tr. in 1 eh, repeat from * to the end of thq row, turn. 2nd Row—3 eh., 3 tr. in first sp., * miss 1 sp., 1 d.c. in next sp., 2 eh., 4 ,tr. in next sp., repeat from * twentyfive times. Miss 1 sp., 1 d.c. in next sp., 2 eh., 3 tr. i n next sp., 1 tr. on 1 tr.; turn.

3rd Row.—4 eh., 4 tr. in first sp., * (miss 1 d.c. and 2 tr.), 1 d.c. on 1 tr,, 2 eh., 4 tr. in next sp., repeat from * twenty-five times (Miss 1 d.c. and 2 tr)., 1 d.c. on 1 tr., 2 eh., 1 d.c. on 1 Ir, turn.'

4th Row.—3 eh., 3 tr. in first sp. * (miss 1 d.c. and 2 tr.), 1 d.c. on 1 tr., 2 eh., 4 tr. in next sp., repeat from * twenty-five times (miss 1 d.c. and 2 tr.), 1 d.c. on 1 tr., 2 eh., 3 tr. in next sp., 1 tr on 1 tr; turn sth Row—Same as 3rd row

6th Row—4 eh., 1 tr. in first sp., 1 eh., miss 1 d.c, 1 tr. on 1 tr., 1 eh., miss 1 tr., 1 tr. on 1 tr., 1 eh., miss 1 tr., 1 tr. in s.p., repeat from * twenty-five times. 1 eh., miss 1 d.c, 1 tr. on 1 tr. (1 eh., miss 1 tr.'. 1 tr. on 1 tr.), twice, turn.

7th Row.—4 eh.. miss 1 sp., 1 tr. in next sp., * 1 eh., 1 tr. in next sp., repeat from * to the last 2 sp., miss 2 sp.. 1 eh., 1 tr, on 1 U\, turn.