London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXXIV, Issue 63, 11 September 1937, Page 19

London Fashion Notes

Specially Written for "Tl)« Part."

LONDON, July 2.

The' last Royal Court-of the season held last night was called the "Rainbow Court." Ladies in the.Royal circle forsook the cream and gold of the Coronation gowns for pastel shades of mauve and pink and blue.. These shades predominated amongst those making their curtsies to their Majesties, and are indicative of the trend in colour for evening gown and summer frocks. Green; is favoured by debutantes who are not superstitious, and one overseas bride was married in paste] green. ' ,"

The,play "Victoria Regina" is making theatrical history and seems to be influencing fashions. Younger women this season have in many ways gone "allVictorian.". Their curls, feathers, and flowers are. most feminine. The flutter of scarves,' dainty ruffled blouses, and the rustle of taffeta petticoats emphasise this trend.; The 'bathing girl shrouds her charms with' a smart beach coat, and the chaperon is in fashion once more! •, - '■'-..■■•

The Wimbledon tennis . tournament | has been more crowded than ever this year. Spectators now .wear smart summer dresses, but-the competitors -in this super-tennis are clothed in immaculate tailored garments, weighing as few ounces as possible: ' ; "Shorts-skirt" are now. the favoured style for most players, although'a few still; cling \ to' the very abbreviated: shorts .introduced; Jn previous seasons by American women.' Personally, I consider the "shortsskirt" solves the problem of women's dress, for all active'sports. This Ibo.'is ; like a pleated skirt and is supremely graceful in action or repose, but being divided .there is nothing to detract from the freedom and speed demanded for, the success of all modern games. .• : '-~'■. '" ■ ■'■■ '■; \ A. much-travelled young friend wears them in navy; blue drill, with a white mesh sports skirt for yachting (when she takes ' ati active part and is not merely a passenger); Attached'to a skirtrwaist in /a' one-piece shorts, dress of natural- shantung .suiting,, they are ideal for tennis. Cool .and .immaculate at the. end of a game, for- the dress neither creases nor gets disar-. ranged, and; the firmness of the: shantung makes "it slip, easily ;over the body as'one rushes-'rqund! a court: ■ j ' "Shorts-skirts"' niacie of /blue serge ; set into a hipToke,l\vith coloured;-flan-nel blouses, ,ar'e■■"■-id.ea'l. for all; \yinter sports -and ■? loi)g!; .Walks.'" ■: '•". • ■ This waekl attended a;pre-ylew to

GREEN FOR DEBUTANTES

the Press of a collection of hats for the coming season- brought over by Howard Hodge, of New York. He first showed his models in London at the

beginning of this year; and his: success has.prompted him to return with his new autumn collection.

There appears to be 'much diversity in hat fashions for next- season. This is always a good thing, giving a wide selection of silhouettes so that each woman can choose for her own type arid yet be correctly hatt'eS. Crowns are slightly higher, and' will probably assume greater height as the season, advances, ■ with the new; designs in, fur wraps showing. extremely high .'colJars: ■.',■„,' .;"". '. '" . '•, ■ Colours present 'no, problem, black dominates the situation for -dressier models, £ut navy blue (very popular), boater blue (light navy); autumn brown (a clear light shade); and Tyrol green being equally prominent in . new models'. . ■. . ■~ . ■ .'. ■ <

A rust shade, bisque beige',: and grape tone were three'other good shades for sporting ' types of : hats..

In materials fine fur felt ranks first. Velour strip—a velvet-like velour made flat like velvet and beautifulfbr draping. So is Miracle Strip, a lovely fabric for town hats and especially successful in. black.

British antelope suede was again used for hats; this I hear is a very favourite material in America. Trimmings on hats will be, more important than "ever, ostrich -feather worked in hew ways giving colour, and beauty to many models. Steel ornaments, jewelled buckles, , arid clips often shown . with belts .to match. Wings, quills, feather pads, and many new veils. , ... COLOURED STITCHING. The sports type of. hat featured coloured stitching sometimes in. designs entirely covering a darker hat. Autumn brown covered with rust and green, and tied with narrow ribbons of the same colours twisted round the crowns. Brims ;for this, type of hat are rolled up at one side and folded to fit down at the back of the head so that although they expose the hair they are comfortably fixeji.. Crowns vary in height and shape, but all show a tendency to go up, and quills are used with great effect ,to emphasise height or width. Ostrich feathers are pulled through the rolled brims of town hats across the crown, quite flat, with the soft tip resting against the hair. The Box Biretta is a square type of pill-box, like the clerical hat the name suggests. This has bows placed in various places, most successfully on the bandeau round the hair.: "Off-the-face" types include sailors, Dutch cap with high crown and bow at the back, while bows and. hanging ribbons decorate the backs of many hats.

■ —E. RUTH SIBLEY.