CORRESPONDENCE

Evening Post, Volume CXXIII, Issue 70, 24 March 1937, Page 24

CORRESPONDENCE

BLUESTONE,

"Novice."—l have not heard of bluestone as a weed killer, but you may be sure that anything which will kill weeds will also be injurious to plants. There are proprietary preparations obtainable at any seedsman's, but when using them care must be taken that they do not splash over on to the borders or lawn. The best way is to cover the edges with some old sacks or boards. HEDGE PLANTS. "B.L.C."—There are many plants suitable for hedges, which are both quick growing and easy to manage. Most hedges take a lot out of the ground, and where the section is small this is a- big point. Pittosporum crassifolium makes a good hedge. It is a native of New Zealand. It does not root so badly as some things, and is an upright grower. Lawsoniana makes a quick-growing, ornamental, evergreen hedge. It requires a lot of cutting, and is apt to, get too large for a-; small garden. Escallonia macrantha makes a very ornamental, evergreen hedge with red flowers, stands cutting, and is very close. Olearia Fosterii is another native which does exceptionally well in the South Island, but is liable to a gall disease, which disfigures the plants. Whatever is decided upon the ground should be well broken up to at least two spades depth and the lower spit should be enriched with cow manure and any humus available. The top soil should be broken up fine, and have some bonedust mixed with it. The distance apart depends upon the subject chosen. Lawsoniana may be 4ft apart and will soon fill in, but most things should be about 2ft apart. Let the ground settle down well before planting. June or July is the best time to plant. PLANTS FOR CLAY BANK. "Two Queries."—(l) Planting the bank would certainly control the water to some extent. For rapid growth gazania is excellent and requires practically no attention, while giving a blaze of colour during the early summer. You might also try some of the mesembryantremums, the small-flow-ered lavender one being particularly close growing and free flowering. Trailing roses are sometimes used for this purpose. (2) The question of plants suitable for shady positions will be dealt with in next week's notes. POTATOES AND ROSES. "E.L.H."—Undoubtedly the wet season would encourage the slug pests, but they must have been there before. Occasionally an epidemic such as you describe occurs, being difficult to combat. You would certainly be wise to take the matter in hand and persevere throughout the winter, so that the ground may be clear by next spring. If the area is not too large you would be wise to dig in some soil fumigant. Failing that, dusting with alum, quicklime, or soot- would do a lot towards freeing the ground. Alum has the advantage in that it kills the slug eggs on contact as well as the mature slugs. . . . Your soil should be very suitable for roses as they delight in a clay subsoil, which remains cool for their roots. The most important thing is to ensure proper drainage; When working the soil add some coarse bone meal, and if you can procure any bones these are excellent placed beneath the bushes, as they not only supply food for the plants but also assist the drainage. Big bones would be better .broken up as much as possible. Hope you will have every success in your efforts. DIVIDING CYCLAMEN. "C.E.F." —Young plants are generally considered the most satisfactory, and it is not usual to divide the old roots; at the same time I believe it would be possible. The best time would bs while the plants were dormant and the cut edges should be dipped in wood ashes or lime. PASSION VINE UNDER GLASS. W.Y.E. —These plants make rampant growth even outdoors when conditions suit them. You will find it difficult, I think, to keep them within bounds. You would have the best chance of success in the tomato house, where the atmosphere is dry.