SACHET BAGS TOPICS FOR WOMEN SWEET SCENTS EXTREME SIMPLICITY WOMEN AND TENNIS FOR THE ROYAL BABY BOATERS BACK KEEPING THE HOME YOUNG

Evening Post, Volume CXXIII, Issue 59, 11 March 1937, Page 19

SACHET BAGS

TOPICS FOR WOMEN

SWEET SCENTS

EXTREME SIMPLICITY

WOMEN AND TENNIS

FOR THE ROYAL BABY

BOATERS BACK

KEEPING THE HOME YOUNG

NAPOLEON'S WEAKNESS

ELIZABETH'S PERFUMED

If history is to be believed, the use of perfumes has not been altogether confined to the fair sex. Napoleon, who was surely a man's man, had an inordinate fondness for perfumes and made use of eau de Cologne in, what seems to us, prodigious quantities, states a writer in an exchange. He used it like water and poured it over his neck and shoulders. Sixty bottles a month was a fair average for him.

When we read of the love of many of the ancients for flowers and sweet scents, it seems as if we have lost, in these mechanistic days, something of deep value. Perfumes we have, of many and varied kinds, and their manufacture is a great industry; we, too, decorate our houses with flowers. But can we compare our use of these with, for instance, the Khaleef of Arabia, who was so obsessed with his (

love of the rose, beloved of all Arabia, that the flowers, in his time, were allowed to grow nowhere but in the gardens of his palace? He insisted on wearing rose-coloured clothes, and his rugs were sprinkled with rosewater. In Rome, in its luxury days, the cult of perfumes amounted almost. to a craze. When dining, the wealthy nobles delighted to have fountains of rose-water playing, fresh rose leaves were scattered about the floor or showered upon the guests' heads, while garlands were placed on their brows and festooned over their robes. SWEET SCENTS. The Roman women, too, used cosmetics and powders to beautify their skins. These some times took the form of pastes made of pea-flour or barleymeal, which were applied to the skin and allowed to remain on for several hours, in order to make it soft and supple. Then the cheeks were "polished with a wash of asses' milk," which treatment, after all, is not so different from the beauty masks of our own day! CHINESE WIVES.

Attar of roses was discovered, according to tradition, by a lady rejoicing in the lovely name, "Light of the World," the favourite wife of a sultan, who noticed the oily particles floating on the water of her rose canal. In ancient Egypt, the foods, sweetmeats, and sherbets were flavoured with perfumes and their fragrance filled the air in every well-to-do house. The women bathed in perfumed water, and the men used scented unguents for their bodies. At their banquets the guests waded through roses (let us hope the thorns were removed!). We pride ourselves on our modern freedom with regard to "making-up," yet there are still some benighted males in the community who think they prefer beauty unadorned! A Chinese husband thinks differently. One of the presents a bride usually receives from her Chinese bridegroom is a toi-let-bag containing the following: "A box to hold betel-nut for chewing, a small bottle of attar of roses, a bottle to sprinkle rosewater, a box for spices, a powder made of galls and vitriol for blackening the teeth, a box for powder to blacken the eyelids, and one for Kajul (similar to Kohl) for darkening the eyelashes!" He is going to make sure that his wife presents a modish appearance! During the excavations at Luxor, a jar of ointment was found in a tomb; the ointment had kept its perfume, although that tomb had been sealed for three thousand years. Perfume was beloved of tne Egyptians. PERFUMED LEATHERS. Cleopatra was not the first woman who is recorded as having used perfume as an aid to beauty. Judith, when she went forth to seek Holofernes, "anointed herself with precious ointment, and decked herself bravely, to allure the eyes of all men that should see her." From the earliest times, the Hebrews made use of aromatic substances. The Jewish Kings were anointed with the Holy Oi , and there is the beautiful incident related by oi. John, when Mary anointed the feet of Jesus: "Then took Mary a pound of ointment of spikenard, very costly. So .powerful was this perfume that "the house was filled with the odour of the ointment." . The-Greeks thought, perfume to be ot divine origin, and the Persians were in love with roses. Then, to fly down the centuries,' we find, in France, in 1582, women being publicly reproved for using all sorts erf perfumes and precious aromatics to perfume their clothes and linen, and their bodies. Diana of Poitiers attributed the preservation of her beauty to their aid. and so was able to outshine all her rivals.

Near the close of the eighteenth cen-

MODERN KEYNOTE

Extreme simplicity in the diningroom is aimed at by the new generation of hostesses (states an English ex-

change). Not only are recent brides running their own small houses, both economically and with a practical eye to the usefulness of every article of furniture selected; but they have the artistic sense well developed. They know how to vary the old idea of sideboard, chairs, and dining table, with much that is attractively new.

■ The sideboard can perhaps ring the changes more than any other "piece" in the room. Slabs of coloured glass, thicker than an inch through, and taking all the high-lights of which finely-polished glass is capable, are interesting.

Ordinary glass shows green when it is as thick as the new console ledges are made today, but the glass can be delicate "rosee" or deep blue at the rim.

It is in the newest kind, with blocked edge, that Madame Vincent Paravicini, as bride of last summer, has her side-

boards made. They are fastened to two walls, the ornamental rests being in light walnut to match the square table. The sideboard in glass remains bare until used for service.

Plain walls, a carpet almost plain in deep vieux rose patterned only in its own tufted lines, and chairs upholstered in matching rose velvet—that is the simple scheme, and it makes a very charming background for a modern need.

Mats in fine old lace, simple cut glass, and napkins rolled into "cornucopia" shape, make the table look its best for a little luncheon for the weekday meal.

The corners are rounded to do away with dust traps. The ivory-painted walls are bare, save for two or three pictures carefully chosen.

An interesting present received by the new baby Princess came from the Dowager Lady Swaythling, states the "Daily Telegraph."

This was a white velvet cover for the feeding-bottle, ornamented . with a wreath of pink roses. It was made by an inmate of the Home and Hospital for Jewish Incurables, Stamford Hill, in which Lady (Stuart) Samuel has been interested for many years.

Lady Samuel, whose birthday also falls on Christmas Day, buys and prepares the materials for the cripples to embroider, and disposes of their work throughout the year and annually at a sale at her flat in Berkeley Court. The profits, after the patient has been paid for his or her work, help towards the upkeep of the home.

Keeping the home young is a continuous adventure that may be accomplished in a multitude of ways, states the "Cape Times." There is something perennially youthful about everyone who is a- thorough home-and-garden lover.

He is always optimistic, always anticipating some new thrill. And he is always careful to see , that his own home and garden are kept looking young.

The only garden that looks old is the one that is overgrown with weeds, with plants pinched and faded because of lack of care. Such a garden may be only one year old. The house can also be kept looking just as youthful as when it was built if it be of fundamentally good architecture and built of sound material. This is true even if the style of the house be early Cape, made familiar by the home designers of 300 and more years ago. You are a product of your home. By keeping it young you will hold fast to your own youth.

tury, the perfumed bath, termed by Voltaire the "luxury of luxuries," was revived, and we read of Madame Tallien refreshing herself in a bath of crushed strawberries and raspberries, after which she was gently rubbed with sponges soaked in perfumed milk. No wonder these were beauties!

And then, perfumed gloves were invented. They were brought to England from Italy by the Earl of Oxford, and that year (1550) Queen Elizabeth had a pair of perfumed gloves trimmed with four frills of. roses of coloured silks in which she took keen pleasure. She was exceptionally fond of perfumes which, according to a Tudor writer, "were never richer, more elaborate, more costly, or more delicate than in Elizabeth's reign." She had a cloak of Spanish perfumed leather, and her shoes were scented with sweet essences. The still-room then formed a part of every castle and country house, and in it aromatic waters were prepared from the recipe-book.

CHAMPIONSHIP RANKING

WORLD'S FIRST TEN

The Australian lawn tennis ranking lists for the period March 31, 1936, to March 31, 1937, will shortly be avail-

able, and so far.as women players are concerned, the new Australian champion, Miss Nancye Wynne, should fill the first place, states the "Sydney Morning Herald."

It is not her victory in the national championship alone which will win first place for Miss Wynne, but the fact that in the last twelve months she has only been beaten once in a match. That was in the Victorian championships, when Mrs. Westacott beat her in the semi-final in a match which was played under poor conditions, and subject to constant interruptions by rain.

From her equal first with Miss Hartigan in the twelve months ending March, 1936. Miss Thelma Coyne will probably share second position with Miss Hartigan or drop into third place behind the latter. Miss Coyne has beaten Miss Hartigan within 'the ranking period, and has had good victories against Miss Hartigan, Mrs. Westacott, and Mrs. Hopman. her closest rivals. Her only defeats have been at the hands of Miss Wynne, but unfortunately Miss Coyne missed the Victorian championships, : which Miss Hartigan won, and was forced to withdraw from the New South Wales events owing to the poisoning of her legs. Again, Miss Hartigan is ranked in first place above Miss. Coyne in the New South Wales grading published last month.

Although the first three places will only change about among these three players there are sure to be some big alterations in the other positions in the first ten. Mrs. Hopman was fourth in 1935-36, and should retain that place in spite of her failure in the Australian championships. Until those events Mrs. Hopman had not suffered a defeat by any player ranked lower than she was. Moreover, she scored a meritorious win against Mrs. Westacott in the New South Wales championships.

It. is Mrs. Westacott who will again find her place in the Australian ranking list, which she missed in the previous twelve months on account of insufficient performances. She played splendidly in -the national titles to reach the final, and she took Miss Wynne to three sets on that occasion as well as. beating1 her in the semifinal of the Victorian championships in December. These performances may be considered by the ranking committee to be better than .those of Mrs. Hopman, although the latter has been the more consistent.

It is unlikely that Miss May Blick will be included in this year's first ten. She was fifth last year, but Miss Dorothy Stevenson, Miss May Hardcastle, Miss Alison Hattersley, Miss Gwen O'HallQran, and Miss Margaret Wilson all have better performances. IN AMERICA. Those responsible for the women's ranking in America will have a problem to face this year. Miss- Helen Jacobs, as the Wimbledon champion, is the acknowledged world champion, but following her success at Wimbledon she lost the American title for the first time for five years to Miss Alice Marble. In a world ranking list Miss Jacobs undoubtedly holds pride of place over Miss Marble, but when it comes to a national ranking it seems that Miss Marble has earned the number one position as a result'of her success in the American championships.

It is important in considering Miss Jacobs's position to remember that her best performances were in Europe and not in America; hence on national consideration Miss Marble is worthy of first place.

The world's first ten holds as interesting a situation as the American situation. In reviewing the 1936 results there are some who feel that Mrs. Hans Sperling (Hilda Krahwinkel) should be ranked above Miss Jacobs, although Wallis Myers gave the latter pride of place. Frau Sperling was beaten in the final of the last Wimbledon tournament by Miss Jacobs, but by the smallest possible margin. If Miss Jacobs had retained her American title, she would have unquestionably been number one, but there is some justification for the German woman going into first place in view of her win in the French championship. Also Mrs. Sperling lost no sets during 1936 to any player except to Miss Jacobs in the final of the Wimbledon championship. Besides losing to Miss Marble in America. Miss Jacobs also lost to Miss Dorothy Round. Miss Kay Stammers, and Mademoiselle Jedzrejowska.

PARIS MODELS

Little "sailor" styles in hats always come in with spring-time, but Madame Suzy has some new and piquant notions, states a Paris writer. The fancy boater is going to be a chic Idea in the 1880 spirit with floral trimmings and low crowns. Brims vary from frankly flat to muffin-ridged ones, and both follow the line of crown fittings on a short dimension of elegant shape.

A single-brimmed shape of fancy white straw in this category drops a shadow over the eyes at a right-angle and shows a bind of black gros-grain to correspond with one at the top of a crown sloping, as it were, in semihigh flower-pot fashion, with a single dark rose perching on one side centre front. It is called "Dame a la rose."

Other fancy boaters have bunches of flowers that dip brims straight forward and backward above the nape. Take briar rose, bunches without foliage as an example on black bengale for a smart shape which is given a change from flowers to a bow arrangement of white cut quills. This is posed across the centre front above another back and front sloping brimmed black bengale shape.

Short crowns apply to double brims with muffin ridges as well as those that are completely flat and rigid. Both have a Spanish air, with one in black eire straw of soutache cording persuasion, and the other intended for bankok, bengale, "paper panama," or one of the new fancy stiff straws. The former is given a crown bind of red velvet ribbon shooting out at the back in two thin- narrow, lines. Side slottings in the latter take a chin strap with green pom-poms.

The Spanish idea is not overdone, but achieved in an amazingly smart manner by Madame Suzy, who takes another characteristic motif for a "tambourine" beret. Interesting, too, is an Iranian beret of machine-stitched royal blue felt with a rolled-up outline beneath a designed crown, which is ornamented at the back by a. red gros-grairi bow witll tails.'

OLD FASHION RETURNS

The Court beauties in the time of King Charles II of England certainly were wise in the ways of the siren, and knew how potent scents could prove in entrancing the male of the species, states the "Winnipeg Free Press." To obtain the most subtle and seductive effects they used to fill httle silken bags with powdered perfumes and scattered them in their clothes chests, or carry them about in their pockets. And as a result, their garments always exhaled a faint, most ailuring fragrance.

These little silken bags were probably '-he forerunners of the sachet bags so popular in granny's youth. But today sachets are not nearly so popular as they were.

Of course, a strong, overpowering scent that just about knocks you out when you come within range of it will not add anything to a girl's charm. But everyone knows that a subtle, delicate fragrance will send a load of the old«sex appeal in any wily maiden's direction. That's why it surprises mo that so few modern women use sachets, because the most subtle and pleasing effect can be achieved through the use of this form of perfume.

Sachet isn't an expensive form oi perfume either. If a girl can't afford to buy sachet bags alraedy made up, she can easily make them herself —although dainty sachet bags are really amazingly cheap right now. To make such bags herself, all a girl need do is to make little bags from old bus of silk and place in them some sachet powder wrapped in a. bit of cotton, or little cakes of sachet. Also, if she prefers, she can fill her little bags with lavender, dried rose petals, orris powder, orange flowers, jasmine flowers, rosemary, or any other fragrant flowers or herbs. And they will impregnate her garments with the most delightful fragrance.

There are so many different methods of employing sachet bags, too, that these beauty aids should not be ignored. They' can be fastened to . the linings of hats to .perfume the hats and the wearer's hair. They can be hung from dress hangers with bits of ribbon, so that one's dresses will become impregnated with their delightful perfume. Keep them in your glove box, too, in your handkerchief case, in your stocking drawer, in your clothes chest. Sprinkle them among your filmy undies and lingerie. You'll find that they will perfume your .garments most subtly, and you will consequently always exude a most charming and delicate fragrance.

If you discover that you have oversalted a vegetable, cover the dish tightly with a wet cloth, and the excess of salt will disappear.

GLOVES