MUTTON-BIRDING

Evening Post, Volume CXXIII, Issue 47, 25 February 1937, Page 11

MUTTON-BIRDING

ANCIENT INDUSTRY,

ISSUE OF PERMITS

ISLANDS APPORTIONED

This week a meeting was held in the Lands and Survey Office. Invercargill, for the pvpose of issuing permits to Maoris to enable them to take part in the 1937 mutton-birding season, which will begin in a few weeks, for this ancient industry has changed in some respects, and is now under strict control. Not that it has not always been-under control, for mutton-birding rights go back into ancient Maori history, and the islands where the birds breed have always been jealously guarded. Forty or fifty years ago the restrictions on mutton-birding were relaxed to such an extent that many Europeans claimed a share in the industry, but the collecting of the birds is now exclusively in the hands of the Natives. The methods.of collecting and preserving the birds have altered little since ancient times. Where large canoes were used in pre-pakeha days to take the bird hunters to the islands, small steamers make the circuit to deposit the Natives and collect their catches at a later date. On the islands, too, the miserable temporary whares formerly used by the birding parties have given place to comfortable European buildings, but apart from that the procedure is practically the same as ever. THE TITI ISLANDS. Permits have been issued to parties who will hunt the birds on seven, islands. Each,island has its own name, but the group is known to the Maoris as the Titi Islands, Titi being the Maori name for mutton-bird. The parent birds land on these islands and burrow holes in the ground or refurbish old holes as nesting places. The eggs are hatched in the early summer, and from then onwards the parent birds go out in their millions to catch fish with which to feed their young. By the early autumn the young birds are well grown and fat, and it is at this stage that the Maoris have always claimed their share of the season's crop. The number taken is comparatively small when compared with the number reared, and has no adverse effect on the number of birds in southern waters. ROBBING THE NESTS. When the hunting parties first land on ■ the island they rob the nests by the simple p>'cess of locating them with a stick thrust into the burrows so that an opening can be made above the young birds. In many cases plugs of earth are removed from year to year. The young birds are killed by being bitten at the back of the head, and when a large number has been collected they are plucked and dressed, .the body being split down the breast. ~At this stage there is an addition to the ancient method, for the birds, are steeped in brine before being stored. The receptacles used for storing the birds have not altered in any way. Bags made by opening the wide leaves of a form of kelp common on the southern coast are preplred before the season commences, and the birds are placed in these. Each bag is tied with a strand of flax, and is then a perfectly air-tight container in which the birds will keep in good condition for many months. As the receptacles have to be shipped from the islands and sent all over New Zealand, they are placed in flax baskets lined with strips of totara' bark, the whole being bound around with stnvds of flax. CAUGHT ABOVE GROUND. As the end of the season approaches, many of the young birds come, out of their nests to, try their wings and a different method has to be adopted by the hunters. At night time these young birds are captured as they return to their nests and next day the process of curing them for the market occupies the successful hunters. If transport is available a limited number are sent to the mainland to, be sold in their feathers and these fresh birds are regarded as a great delicacy. The preserved birds, too, are greatly prized by many people, Maori and European alike, as they have a distinctive flavour that is definitely pleasing to most people. At one time the birds were cooked before being placed in the kelp bags but very few are treated in this way at the present time, the Maoris preferring the simpler method of salting. When the birds are cooked on the islands the oily fat is caught and is poured over the birds in the bags and this method provides a preservative that will last indefinitely. : The principal objection to the mutton-bird by Europeans is the oillness of its fat, but if the birds are properly cooked this objection is - removed. They should be boiled until tender arid then grilled to remove the oil from the fat. However, this oil has a very penetrating smell and as it will cling to the cooking utensils for many days many housewives refuse to cook the birds and the majority are sold cooked by the fishmongers who stock them;