London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXXIII, Issue 19, 23 January 1937, Page 19

London Fashion Notes

Specially Written for "The Post."

LONDON, December 4,

Wherever one moves in fashion circles these days one is conscious of curved lines and moulded silhouettes. There is still an overwhelming preference for everything tailored, both for day and evening alike, inspired by men's fashions of Regency and Directoire periods as well as the modern swallow tail. At a recent gala performance I saw a long skirted suit of white face cloth with a white satin blouse. Again, a black velvet suit with a shorter skirt but a longer jacket that dipped at the back, with a bright red chiffon blouse and handkerchief to match trailing out from the jacket pocket. And on the same evening a straight white satin dress with a bolero of bright red paillettes, and a black sheath dress bordered at the hem and neckline with a band of gold. By day, dresses continue to favour an almost monastic simplicity, high to the neck. The frivolous note creeps into the skirts, which bell out at the hem, like a dancer's. ACCENT ON THE BACK. Decorations and special features may be on the back in the lorm of quaint, fastenings—lacings, novel buttons, hooks of fancy material, and clasps. Often the fullness is gathered at the back and a basque or a skirt takes on a dipping line. Materials are mixed, and we find velvet on cloth, satin, and silk, in many of the daytime models. Bright satin and dull crepe are used together with great effect to give point to an original design. | Bands of silk and satin, etc., on net and tulle and chiffon, for evening frocks, is a revival that fits in with the new full-skirted dresses. The waistline is a little higher, although in the best fashions this is not exaggerated, but whether there is a belt or not, the waist is always defined. You get this waisted effect on plain tailleurs, tunics, redingotes, jackets, and on all dresses, whether full or narrow, or figure-moulded. INFORMAL EVENING CLOTHES. For smart occasions towards the end of the day many attfictive women have adopted a very usdi'3 shortskirted ensemble in lame, cloth, and lace, or velvet, or stiff silic.'?. Under'the jacket or bolero, the corsage is cut quite low, like a sun-bath-ing dress." People are wearing this type of costume for cocktail and sherry parties, dinner and theatre, or restaurant dancing, and it is actually the choice of material that gives it a party appearance. Colours are rich and deep, and very becoming, and act as a wonderful foil for the lavish fur wraps that are so fashionable. Silver i>.x seems to be the right trimming for everything, and is especially suitable for the "stole" trimming which is quite the newest way to trim any coat, whatever the fur. These stole onus often run from the neckline to the hem, and in a spirit of contrariness leave the aack of the neck uncovered. I have seen this style carried out on thin materials for next year, and a , white georgette crepe dress with a white coat trimmed with white fox all down the fronts suggested Ascot or a garden party. EMBROIDERED DETAILS. Decorative ideas that do not disturb the simplicity of line include much embroidering. Silk and other threads such as gold and silver, give great effect on plain jackets and dresses. Thus, one very fashionable dressmaker is putting large revers entirely covered with embroidery on both jackets and dresses, which are otherwise entirely plain.

A navy blue jacket suit had these revers embroidered in silken thread,

with the centres of some motifs picked out in bright red, giving a very decorative note to an all coloured ensemble, wheh had a navy blue chiffon blouse tied high at the neck. A black crepe dress with scarf neckline and deep belt was artistically embroidered with gold thread and emerald green silk touches on the ends of the scarf, and across the back of the belt to match the row of gold buttons down the full back of the bodice. Pearl and paillette embroideries are very much in, not only on delicate frocks of chiffon and tulle, but on lustrous satin, brocade, velvet, and lace—when it almost seems like "gilding the lily" to decorate fabrics that are already so beautiful. I have previously mentioned the popularity of lace which is on the increase. Not content with fine lace for 'evening and summer wear, we have thick wool lace for afternoon frocks. Lace is being used as a trimming and a black Chantilly lace fichu draping a white

A LACE FROCK.

satin dress drew much favourable comment from a discriminating crowd, which also approved silver lame with grey lace draping the shoulders and down to the waist at the back. Sol't laces that drape and trail, and stiff laces that give a lampshade silhouette are especially popular, but I think the one I have sketched expresses this season's chic and would look equally well in while or any dark-colourd lace. > RUTH SIBLEY.