London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXXI, Issue 115, 16 May 1936, Page 19

London Fashion Notes

Specially Written for "The Post." I

LONDON, March 27. 1 There has been such a spate of fashion showings during the last few weeks that one is bewildered with'the | variety of styles. Up and down Mayfair in the tiny exclusive salons and big hotel ballrooms the new collections have demonstrated individual ideas that express the same new trends. ! Everything seems to be patterned ; these days, and even tweeds and wool-

ens ■ have criss-cross lines or shadow stripes woven into them. Soft woollens have rows of .frayed fringe, or little "tails" over the surface, or loops of wool to give a spot effect. Fine texture blouse woollens have large "darned" spots in shaded coloured wool, while other materials have a coarse coloured woollen thread darned to. give a' checked effect. There seems to be two types of printed silk favoured by fashion this season. . For,the, daytime little white birds in flight over a dark background are amongst the better style silks, small farmyard anrmals, fish, or the heads of cats or dogs are amongst the newest designs, for daytime frocks and blouses. Many of the .elegant printed silks used for evening, wear show large clusters of tulips, arum lilies, wide-

open poppies, and large marguerites. By which you will gather that all designs are distinctive, and there is an absence of the smaller muddly or conventional patterned silks. Unusual was a gown of brown crepe with large gold wedding rings all over the surface, with the waist circled by a plain gold tubular belt that continued the ring effect and worn with gold chain jewellery at the neck and wrists. BROAD SHOULDERS. There is one trend which is becoming more pronounced as the season advances, and that is the increasing width across the shoulders. In some cases this is expressed by the bodice or coat extending over the top of the arms, with padding or stiffening to give a "squared-up" look. Other "coats and jackets have fullness at the tops of the sleeves, and quite, a number show the wide-topped "gigot" sleeve that tapers off closely at the wrist. This type is also shown on' many dresses when the sleeves finish just below the elbow. Coloured jackets with these sleeves have a very smart look. In a collection I saw a chamois leather jacket in pale yellow worn with a navy dress. The sleeves were shaped widely at the tops by means of stitched seams, and all the jacket seams were stitched to match.. The width about the shoulders is equally distributed over tailored suits, top coats, and dresses, with short basqued jackets or loose swing-back three-quarter coats. The difference between this revival and the built-up shoulders of a few seasons ago is that the present lines are softer and less aggressive. ■ - ' LOVELY LACE. ; One -> would' nmagirie there was nothing new. tp .show in^ lace, which has rarely been absent from the front rank of fashion in recent years. ■■ Queen Mary and the Royal Duchesses have always favoured the lovely laces which' are made-.in our own Nottingham factories. . This.'year dressmakers are using: "fine black laces for- bouffant dresses, posed over the slimmest and tightest,of satin underslips, so that you combine two silhouettes in one gown. Starched laces are particularly attractive when . fashioned into ■ the kneelength' pe'plum dresses 'over a very tight ankle-length.skirt of-the same colour. This, gives the Persian or "lampshade" silhouette, which is amongst the newest fashions of: the moment. Sometimes a dress of -. this kind -will; have long, tight sleeves,, .with a.low. bodice, for a dinnerjdress, or be sleeveless .with -a High neckline"in"■'front- and 'low drapery at the 'back. • •. ■ .'. -. • ■'■-. ■ ■ ' ■: Very beautiful was'the model I-have sketched, which.expresses two of the fashion, trends 'of the moment, tiered skirts" and lace. • The black net\ lace >is encrusted with a large floral pattern^of Spanish blonde lace,-giving extra . distinction, while the'little cape'veils' the low-cut shoulder strap' decplleta'ge.' .V. ' ' -.Another unusual:, way of using lace is for the wide-flared flounces to start at the waistline and to wind round the skirt in spiral fashion with the last flounce just trailing the floor slightly at the back. Spiral trimming is also used for-sunray pleated flounces, and occasionally with the heavy bead or silk fringes which have been revived by some dressmakers. As you will note, slenderness remains in spite of three flounces, for the underslip fits very closely, and is ,of very,- shiny satin.. . . ' E. RUTH .SIBLEY.