Chat From Paris

Evening Post, Volume CXXI, Issue 115, 16 May 1936, Page 19

Chat From Paris

By Margaret Manet. ■ "■ -

BEING WARM IN WINTER

Though the bleak days are well and' truly iipoiv us, gusty, with 'scatter of' leaves, irritating sudden little winds that fray one's temper, ruffle one's coiffeur, and ruin one's outline—we seem to be sustaining our effectiveness extraordinarily, well. The secret is really with the manufacturers who appear to have become positively extravagant in the matter of imagination. All the "impossible" fabrics—the. textures -we have dreamed about—have . suddenly become true.Woollens, tweeds, velvets —how clumsy they were,.how stifling or irritating to. the skin! Yet now, here, they are—as knobly, as hairy, as rich as ever—but by some miracle deprived of weight and thickness, of all that awkwardness - that winter clothes used to mean. - ■ .We wear far fewer clothes than ever before and they are for the most part featherweight. And yet their downy warmth is all-sufficient—we are cosier than we ever were. /And smarter. . Outlines no longer have, to .be sacri- ' flced. Trimmings' are arranged more . subtly, so 'that the/lines that- matter, • the flattering. lines,' are undisturbed. Fur may embrace the neck,-.encircle the shoulders, descend becomingly the , ■ front of the jacket, But never may it go further. The line of waist, hip, and thigh must remain for the slender sil- " houette. ■'.•■■.: ' '•.-"' ': It is not a season when' geheralisa- ■'• tion is possible. But perhaps one is ;■• vaguely aware1 that forearms, for the .. most part, are extremely tightly-fitted ~ and pointed.to achieve a veritable leani ness, while above the elbow anything , - —fantastic, grotesque, or amusing—may .- "happen.."". ' r , . . . . Sleeves have become, perhaps, the chief interest of the fashion day. They . are cut in every, shape of strangeness so long as it gives the appearance of height or breadth to.the shoulder, from the remembered leg-o'-muttons to the simple but fully gathered inset. This mode has extended from street wear to : the smart, day frocks. But it is always only applied to the heavier materials. And there is still' the cheering alternative for those, whose natural breadth will not permit;such exaggeration of the : plainly-tailored, the tight and fitting sleeve. . >.. ..! ;• Extraordinarily- lovely . things are being prMuced in angora- in the weave.'; i More; and more of it, not the vague hair thalt: appeared in the first experimental woollens but cloudy sur- « faces that actually move in the wind. , 'Besides lending mysteriousness and , ( grace to the most simple garment, it is 1 surprisingly -protective against cold. The off-white or .grey of the hair is woven- into the " natural greens and ethereal with powder blue. Cardigans that are definitely fitted, close and cosy, buttoned and belted in matching suede, are very popular for indoor .wear. ~ ..... When-.angora is used for an entire frock contrast it is often provided with patent, leather, or finest kid for peter pan-collar of harrow belts and sham pockets. , : : ' .• Braiding; that has disturbed itself layishly oyer: Jacket, fronts, collars, belts, cuffs, and pockets, has extended its domain. 'At a,recent afternoon party a sleeve of a black gown—not both, mind you—-was entirely covered in minute .pattern: :It looked a little 'as though the embroiderer had wearied of her task; but actually there is a trend towards bddness in most things, and the spring threatens to bring out •ome startling novelties in fashion mood. - Blouse^ are charming, made in the loose light woollen fabrics, the softer Weaves of angora or even in some •ilk-seeming woollen resembling in texture the old-time crash. These are for

the _most part severely . tailored, but occasionally a striped material is used diagonally towards the centre and; the neck is,swathed softly .in front, scarflike, folds disappearing over the shoulders to a point at- the. back, .where-also it fastens. Tiny buttons are used in front, set close as trimming. . Wo.ollen stockings are- not despised this season, since warmth and security can be achiev.ed..without clumsiness. Shoes are still " sturdy, lowish'-heeled and sensible. • Skirts having become just that'little bit shorter that makes for trimness, deftly fashioned boots are worn to turn back elfiri-wise above the ankle. These are frequently zipfastened and are in a happier variety of the autumnal'tones'. ■ The. accompanying sketches show a velvet tunic that is chic enough for an odd social hour arid at'the same time has all.the cosy, comfortableness of pyjamas. Actually the front-fasten-ings are elaborate1 diarria'nte and the belt also. The skirt should be of some sheer lustreless material that hangs sleekly, and is cut -to fit. Below,- the collar, high, in front and peaked, is supported by an easily-made twist of rug wool in two colours, .threaded through slots and passed through a ring to fall in simple ends. Both styles express that back-to-frontness that is part of this winter's contrary mood. of th War lf irdle is made t0 »ot of. the light collar material.