FOLK COOKERY

Evening Post, Volume CXIX, Issue 128, 1 June 1935, Page 18

FOLK COOKERY

A SAVOURY DISH

The names of different dishes, cakes, and so forth are an attractive sidestudy of gastronomy and cookery, just as kitchen terms may be a fruitful source of research for students of dialect that has passed or is passing away. There are traces also of ancient customs to be found in nursery rhymes, states Florence White, of the English Folk Cookery Association, in the "Daily Telegraph."

What about "Peter. Piper met a Pieman going to the Fair," "Little Jack Homer who sat in a corner eating a Christmas Pie," and. "The Knave, of Hearts who stole the tarts"?

But it is a savoury dish which I am going to discuss today, not abtruse derivations that are fit fare for the learned. I wonder how many people know that "Love in Disguise" is the country name for a calf's heart stuffed and roasted? . . . .

, Wash the heart thoroughly, cutting away the pipes and tough skin, etc., inside. Put it to soak for one hour in cold water, to which should be added a little vinegar. Then put it into a saucepan, cover it with cold water, bring this gradually to simmering point, and simmer for two or three hours until the heart is tender. Leave it to get cold in the broth,* but do not leave it in the saucepan—turn it into a crock.

Next day take it out and dry it inside and out. Make a good veal stuffing with Jib breadcrumbs, two tablespoonfuls of chopped suet, 2oz minced cooked ham, one dessertspoonful chopped parsley leaves, half teaspoonful powdered and sifted mixed herbs, the grated rind of half lemon, pepper and salt, and mixed with egg. Use this to stuff the heart, keeping it in place by skewering over it a piece of caul.

Brush all over with egg and dip in white breadcrumbs. Leave to dry for 30 minutes. Put it into a baking dish in which you have made some dripping very hot. Put some bits also on top, and bake in a good oven for 30 to 45 minutes, basting it frequently.

This has been wittily called "Love in Disguise," and a very good name, too. Some people use crushed .vermicelli instead of breadcrumbs. A suitable garnish is a puree of tomato poured round the heart, and a piece of boiled bacon should be served with it.

Another amusing folk name is "flirts," which is the Kentish name for two biscuits spread with jam and sandwiched together.