THE PAUA

Evening Post, Volume CXIX, Issue 128, 1 June 1935, Page 11

THE PAUA

ITS MANY USES

VALUED BY MAOfcl AND PAKEHA

"THE MARINE OPAL"

New Zealand with its long coastline abounds in sea foods and, to the Maoris at least, one of the most important is the paua, a large sea shell which makes its home on the rocks of the shore below low-water mark. The shell of the paua is well known to most New Zealanders, but the fish it contains has probably never been seen by many, although the fish was—and is—of far more importance to the Maoris than the shell. The paua belongs to the monovalvular type of shellfish, having a single shell like the limpet. The single shell or valve covers the'top of the fish, protection for the "foot" or un-der-surface being dependent on tha fish's ability to cling to the smooth, flattish rocks favoured by it. Under normal conditions the outer edge of the shell is about a quarter of an inch above the rock surface and the fish moves about on its foot after the manner of a snail. When disturbed by heavy waves or an enemy it grips the rock firmly and draws the shell down upon itself until the edge touches the rock and it is protected from all marauders except human ones armed with an instrument strong enough to prize it from its hold. MAORI USES. The Maoris placed a high value on the flesh of the paua as it formed an important part of the diet of hunting and raiding parties. They used the shell to lend colour to their carvings, and whole shells were used to hold paint or oil for primitive lamps, a piece of fibre being employed in the latter as a wick. Another use of the shell was the manufacture of trolling "spoons," which were used for catching kahawai. A" curved piece of the shell was used, the hook lashing at the lower end being carried around the dull side of the shell to the line at the upper end. The "spoon" did not turn in the water like a modern- spinner but moved with a wriggling motion when drawn" behind a canoe or against the current at a river's mouth, deceiving the fish into mistaking its gleam for the silvery sides of a sprat. Very bright pieces of shell were not as efuctive in some cases as duller ones. Drawing the "spoon" through the water is described by a Maori resident of Wellington as "hard work." Shells taken from fish in the prime of life have seven holes in • a row along the top of the shell but set well to one side, and these have to be plugged before the shell can be used as a vessel for holding liquids. In old shells some of these holes, may be found covered over with a deposit of lime. The function of the holes is apparently to provide the fish with water when it is holding close to its home, as a certain amount must be required for "breathing," although the fish takes very little oxygen-from the water and will live for a considerable period on .dry land. STRUCTURE OF FISH. The fish has a comparatively solid body, the flesh being without the muscle fibres common to animals or ordinary fishes. Its consistency has been likened to cheese but has a more resilient texture. The entrails occupy a comparatively small part of the shell and are well protected from injury by the shell on one side and the body of the fish on the other. If the shell is dislodged from its feeding ground and turned over the fish is able to thrust the outer edge of the foot over the side of the shell until it grips the rock and turns the shell back into its proper position. When removed from the water it will grip , anything it can reach and several shells placed together will cling to one another. The. action of clinging or gripping is largely due to suction brought about by muscular action. In securing the pauas on the seashore the Maoris probably relied largely on the strength and dexterity of the bare hand, as an experienced fisherman can remove the fish from its rocky home before it has time to take a good grip. The Maoris also used instruments of bone to thrust under the shell and lever the fish from its hold. The method of removing the fish by hand is generally known to settlers along the coast, and the blade of a Dutch hoe is sometimes used for taking the shells from deep water. When the pauas i are removed from the rocks by hand they have to be taken unawares as the slightest fumble will alarm the fish, and once it has taken a grip it cannot be shifted without using considerable force. PRESERVING THE FISH. ■The Maoris secured the shellfish in large numberg and placed them in their "ovens" along with other food. After they were cooked they were dried, either in the sun or over a slow • fire, and were then ready for storing. Parties travelling long distances carried a supply of the dried paua and chewed it as they marched. It • was held to be excellent food for such purposes as it was sustaining and provoked a flow of saliva that reduced the need for drinking water. If the fish was to be eaten as soon as it was caught it was not cooked, and even present-day Maoris will express a preference for the fish in the raw state. Europeans who know how to cook the paua refer to it as "mutton fish" and appreciate its delicacy of flavour. The fish is a sooty black when removed from the shell and requires scrubbing with a stiff brush before it can be cooked. The solid part of the fish is surrounded by a "frilled" edge and this is cut away, as it is uncongenial to the pakeha palate. If cooked whole the fish is exceedingly tough, being comparable to a particularly objectionable steak with the added resilience of rubber. It can be minced and cooked as a curry, but to get the full delicacy of its individual flavour it should be fried. Before being placed in the pan it must be pounded with some heavy instrument, such as a roll-ing-pin, as this treatment removes its natural toughness. While being pounded it has to be held between the folds of a cloth as its springy, rubber-like nature makes it difficult to hold with the bare hands. USES OF THE SHELL. The inner surface of the shell is iridescent, reflecting colours to such an extent and variety that it has been referred to as. the "marine opal," although it has never been placed in the unlucky category of that precious stone. The outer surface of the shell is covered with a lime deposit, and is usually coated with minute marine vegetation until it has the appearance of the rocks upon which the fish lives —an accidental form of protective colouration. If the outer coating is removed a substance similar to the inner surface, but usually with more brilliant colouring, is disclosed, and this surface is generally used at the present time for making articles of adornment. DECORATIVE PURPOSES. The Maoris in using the shell for decorative purposes polished it to a certain extent and cut it into various shapes. It was frequently used as eyes

for carved figures, but, according to a Maori resident of Wellington, this use had no special significance, the shell being prized because of its bright colour. The use of the shell for decorative purposes was disregarded by Europeans until recent years when the making of ornaments was introduced, mainly by disabled soldiers. Probably because the paua shells found near Wellington have particularly good colouring, the commercial use of the shell has flourished here more than anywhere else, and a wide range of articles has been manufactured, mostly to go overseas as souvenirs of New Zealand. For small ornaments such a's earrings, tiepins, sleeve-links, good-luck tikis, and "stones" for finger rings the outer edge of the shell is used, that part having brighter and more varied colouring than the central or top part. Some workers clean the lime deposit ofl the shell with acid, but this method is not satisfactory unless great care is taken, as the acid eats away the weaker parts of the shell. Even if care is taken the result is not as good as manual polishing, the surface being slightly irregular. The best-known manufacturer in Wellington cleans the shell with a file and polishes with varying grades of burnishing brushes and polishing preparations. This process imparts all the beauty of a jewel to the shell and articles made from selected pieces command a good price. Whole shells have been polished and used for certain purposes, such as making electric lamp reflectors and inkstands, but for smaller articles cut pieces are used, usually made into inlay work with silver. A few articles have been made with gold mounting, but the high price of gold restricts the demand for these.. When the shell is used for inlay work it is built in after being rough polished and the whole article is finished off with the burnishing brush and polish later. SUPPLY OF SHELLS. As yet the industry has not progressed far enough to make serious inroads into the supply of shellfish, those engaged in it being content to use the shells cast up on the coast, as these are easier to clean than shells taken from live fish. The life story of the paua has never been investigated, but it is known that it is a slow-growing fish, easily exterminated from any one spot. Its value as a food for the Maoris is fully realised, and it is stated that official action will be taken if there is any attempt at wholesale destruction to supply overseas demands for manufacturing purposes. Many New Zealanders believe that the industry will grow into an important one, and that paua shell ornaments will become typical of the country, but it is also held that the supply of shells can be maintained by those cast up or secured by the Maoris along the coast. The shell used is known to naturalists as "Haliotis iris," but there are other species, the commonest of these in New Zealand waters being "Haliotis Australis." This species is a white fish, much smaller than the black variety and not nearly so easily found. The shell of Australis has a more aesthetic colouring than that of iris, but it is not valued for commercial purposes, purchasers of articles ofi adornment preferring the more flamboyant common paua.