London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXVIII, Issue 54, 1 September 1934, Page 19

London Fashion Notes

Specially Written fop "The Post."

LONDON, July 6.

•The summer heat wave has returned in full force, and with, it the fluffy fashions and shady hats to add their pieturesquo quota to sun-drenched' streets. Tho Wimbledon finals are being played in tropical heat, but at Henley the river girls are revelling in a glorious week for the famous regatta.

No wonder that exiled Englishmen in sun-baked tropics or freezing arctic ; regions, are apt to think wistfully of Henley when they have visions of an English summer. It would be hard to beat this stretch of river flanked with shady trees and backed by tho Berkshire Hills, which, during the regatta, takes on the atmosphere' of a gigantic garden party. "

■ Henley fashions are utterly charming, ;£or- they are summer simplicity at its best. ■ A few Ascot creations grace the lawns of tlio riverside clubs, but the river girl has no time for flounces and ruffles, and neither does she care for trousers or shorts. She prefers a bright-coloured frock, in cotton, heavy crepe or Macclesflelcl silk, simply made with sufficient fullness to.- give grace when punting or when merely decorating a boat; although she likes bare amis, you seldom, see bare backs, and a shady hat that fits well down on the head, very simply trimmed with a ribbon or a single cluster of field , flowers. tfIELD FLOWERS SMART. Incidentally, field flowers are. extremely smart. Tho little bunches of cornflower,poppy, and marguerite, with sometimes a, buttercup or touch of wheat, are used to create the designs in some of tho smartest crepes and chiffons.. ■ . An evening gown, in black crepe with theso. field flower bunches scattered sparsely over the surface was one of the most distinctive models in- a re- j cent collection, and had no other trimming. I also saw this crepe worn at Ascot, the dress being long and slim, and full about the ankles, with a shoulder cape to match edged with a deep frill that dipped lower at the back both at the hem, and neck; worn with a wide black velvet hat, absolutely untrimmed, the effect was arresting. -For more youthful wearers the field flowers on white I crepe or chiffon are delightful, and as Avith all smart printed crepes the patterns should be widely spaced. " NEW HATS. In the midst of all this tropical heat | I was invited to a show of autumn; millinery models, created by "Jeff," of Berkeley Square, who has become one of the most sought after designers in London. Ho was almost apologetic for asking us to look at autumn hats so early, but as tho foreign buyers who ■are coming to London before going to Paris arrive next week he had foregone a holiday to create a, collection. '

. This summer has shown that women have liked a large-brimmed hat, so he has decided to retain a modified version of tho becoming lines we are now getting used to. As the forecast for tho new winter silhouetto is long and slim, with stiff little military collar of fur on coats and suits, tho widerbrimmed hat sounds practical as well as picturesque, and women generally will be glad of a continuance of these flattering shapes. So when, you choose a spring hat indulge in a wider brim, .for I find it has proved as becoming to the older woman as to the youthful typo who naturally can wear any shape easily. One model in the new yellow (here called Golden Sand) felt, edged with li, narrow line of black and trimmed with a stiff band and bow in front of black, is likely to be worn immediately. It is smart with black tailored suits, and equally attractive with black crepe .afternoon dresses. A wido black crinoline hat had a flat rosette of shaded ostrich feathers, also in front; and another' in black eire Satin with a- straight brim ia front that-turned sharply down at the back, had a. largo square-cut steel buckle in front,, set against the crown. In fact, I 'noticed - a tendency - to;." set

any trimming there was right in the front.of the : hat, and usually.,fastened against the crown. ■ Several Edwardian hats in black velvet, fairly large' and fitting down on the head, had. a single skin of fitch, ermine,, or squirrel (all dyed sable colour)- laid across the hat, partly on the crown and .partly on the brim. It is a- long time since we had furs used in this; way. . BERETS AND TRICORNES. like beret returns with each season always, a little different, and always becoming.: ■: . ■ ■ In the collection were - shown -some sports berets with mitt gloves to match; Theso were : mado in jersey material in 'several' coloui'9, the berets of ft moderate, size, and the gloves having mitts for; the fingers a«d a thumb and deep gauntlets finely- machine-stitched, the idea being that the mitt was easy to. put off and- on, and helped to grip a boat rail or a golf club, etc.

Then there were larger berets, two of which I have sketched, which will appeal.to many women who have regarded this type of hat as \mbecoming. These look well in satin, taffetas, or velvet. '■■:•■']

A quaint. little black toque- TatUer flat and tilted! forward had a cluster

of black ostrich tips fastened at the back. Yet another in black lace, with jet band round the front, and lace bow at the back, which surely sounds Edwardian, butwhich made a flattering finished to an afternoon gown, or for the informal dinner and theatre. In this collection were some smart ideas for new., scarves. ■

■ Particularly becoming was a threecornered piece of material (actually a square of 36-inch, wide fabric, cut from corner to corner). This was draped round the neck with the deep point down on the chest, and the ends crossed at the back and brought forward over each shoulder. Another piece of widestitched jersey, was placed straight across the front of the throat with ends crossed and- fastening on each, shoulder at the back. •HUTH-SIBLEIV