Paris in the Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CXVII, Issue 76, 31 March 1934, Page 7

Paris in the Mirror

Written for "The Post" by Gtrmafn*.

■-' ;. ■ PARIS, February 7. The dress "designers in Paris are suffering from, indecision. . The- fashion, showings are drawing to a close, and they simply .cannot make up their minds what they want women to look like. There, are at least three silhouettes,, and probably others will evolve when the summer collections come ori.

. The most unusual is that which sug-, gests that the- wearer is being blown away by a violent wind' storm. Everything is swept forward—from the high winged collar, the ends of which almost hide the face on some of the coats, to the pronounced fullness of the skirts, which is entirely concentrated in front.

There is; another which Jias apparently been inspired by tLo outfit of a particularly prim "nursery governess" of the, 1900 era. Little upstanding collars, very neat and correct, closely-fit-ting bodices, and trimly belted waists characterise these clothes. Only- the sleeves occasionally burst into balloons, just, below .the shoulders, as though the general atmosphere of gentility was- too much for them! Even a few of : the r gowns have caught', the, contagion of primness, for the effect of high front necklines is augmented now-by the view of a back which, instead of being practically, nonexistent, is, almost intact, merely exposing a narrow oblong of backbone. The' dressmakers, though, have- compro-mised-in'regard to some of the after-noon-frocks,; by, giving them slit-down "pneumonia backs.' 5 A third silhouette probably will commend itself to the /'sweet young thing," for the frocks, are .very simple and are usually worn with hats which look something, like the {1830 bonnet's. MILMNBRY—SOMETHING- NEW IN THE AIR. Small toques furbished with feathers are in style, and are worn for'both formal daytime and for evening. - They are to : be. seen, in velvet, in felt, and in straw.\ For . the evening, there are sorrie cleverly, fashioned tiny hats of tulle,' silk,.or-satin, and some women are going about —in the daytime—under the new big velvet hats with ostrich feathers -roUed. around* the crowns. Big muffs-which are carried out in tho fabric of '• tlie dress, •in flowers,1 or in feathers, have, caught hold of the fashions arid are rushing along at a great rate. ; .■■' Women, wear them in all sizes and Thoy wear, too, long gloves of "white kid or suede when their dresses, as often happens,' have short' sleeves-; Pumps in kidi suede, leather, or crepe,-dyed to match the colour of the frock;-are fashionable. Footwear is seenin such shades as dark green, 'dark red, ' tawny-brown> ~-. grey, and dark blue. Stockings: arc chosen always,in a tone;of. dark beige that goes nicely with .the dress,, but very 'dark hose aro not worn 'at'all. • : •' -EVENINGFANCIES. Talking, of glovps reminds me of tho new ' satin and' velvet; evening . gloves, gauntlets that .reach, almost :to ■ the eltiow, s where-their flareds edged with ostrich banding in harmonising or contrasting colours. ./And . equally elegant is the pancake evening bag. It is something like the; pancake hat. It is round ■ and; flat and white, and if you're fanciful, you might try and imagine tluitthe rhinestones with which it is sprinkled are', sparkling- crystals of sugar. ;. . V Some.of the lacquered satin dresses —like the skiriof a livo and wet seal—;which' are being worn by' Frenchwomen-, just' now-arb awfully smart, and some of thencw belts'in-gold, in silver, and in white metal,' which arc seen with tulle frocksf or evening-wear, are .very decorative.. •. And on-, several dresses I have' seen' two belts;worn together,' the idea of a 'double belt .being one of the latest' fantasies. ; .-.-.;■ ■ A TEW SENSIBLE HINTS. During.'first .shopping 'in Paris 'you must not buy eccentric models,.arid1 you

must not think that to look a grande dame you should always be seen'wear-' ing conservative gowns. ; A really .'distinguished woman shows her breeding in any kind of clothes, but always looks her best when dressed a-la mode.

You must not.imagine.that, two evening wraps will suffice for six evening dresses; You will require six - evening wraps, as nowadays- each evening gown will need its coat to harmonise.

You must not forget that the unrelieved black dress of a few seasons

past is still smart. It is. Amr» you can wear black' satin, blae'fc crepe de chine, black tulle,-black, velvet. , But you must not wear black moire.-and imagine you, look- young, for it is ageing. . ". . ; ■•• You must not wear shoes with many straps; they are' decidedly vulgar. And whatever you dp, never.-vvear,red,.green, or violet leather shoes .with. dark day gowns; and you• must not forget- that embroidered gloves are only worn by those, persons who..know no. better. Don't forget that a-fashion copied and recopied has little chance •of remaining a fashion.. And that the most beautiful liat 'in the world cannot 'possibly be becoming unless it fits the head well. ' .-' Don't think, that, tlie bustle is really coming in again.- None of the new evening dresses show any traces of it. But tnero aro , stiffencd-out sashes, squares of silk cut on bias, pleating and puffs standing out from the hips, and bunched draperies at the- back. :- But these are not really bustles! There aro:'no" more statuesque, Junoesquo women, all black velvet andimpressiveness. /'Everybody dances lightheartedly, and.more; or less lightfootedly, far into -the sixties, to say nothing ;of - the • seventies,- the eighties, and the nineties!" .''••■