Paris in the Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CXVII, Issue 65, 17 March 1934, Page 15

Paris in the Mirror

Written for 'The Post?' by Germalno.

-,'. '."."/ PARIS, January 24. " The most interesting collections of clothes are'to be- found in Pans-at the present mo'me.nt. Variety is aimed at, but this is produced more by the diffiexlent placing of a' trimming, or modification'Of a line, than by anything outre. Ivorraality is the keynote. Waists are normal; -though certain Paris' dressmakers drop them: slightly towards.'-the baxik. .Skirts .are straight; and slim,Vbut not top s.hdrt, there is width at' the shoulders,'but not "robot" in effect. Sleeves are straight and flat in practic-all^-eyery instance.■";.. Coat sleev_es; .aTeplpn and straight with about the same; width at "the" wrist ,as rat the elbows. Some short evening coats have-;;long tight-fitting sleeves. The wide bouffant sleeve is sfill with-us, and for evening, we see a good deal of the Early Yie-torian-'piiffed-sleeves. • . The loose-thiee-quarter sleeve will often have sonic form of complication from .the .elbow down—either folded overMn a triangular" placket'and buttoned, or cut into, a flare, or supple-mented-by a pleated 'or gathered ruffle. Some long sleeVes on dresses and jackets haye a jutted- out at the threequarters mark.' "Many blouses have straight short sleeves to the elbow or half way down. . TRIMMINGS. Trimmings of various kinds are being placed^ differently on v different models. Sometimes these trimmings are placed at the hem, sometimes at the waistline or shoulder, but every device is used $o give a'plea'sing variety;to a classic idea. Buttons docorate many of the models. Thgre are fewer .metal buttons, which is logical, since metals have a cold look about thenr, and the' new bone or galalit© buttons can be dyed to go with any tints: It's a long time since we have taken trimmings so seriously in Paris. Cut, line, silhouette, lingerie touches, buttons, and so on, -have been the word, but now every wind blows trimming in our face. Dresses are being trimmed with ribbons, with lace, and afternoon dresses are seen trimmed in braid. Bows ajre being much used, you see them, in taffeta, lingerie, and in the colour and fabric of the dress they accompany. Bertha caps are .seen tied, with a bow, aha they are treated as a separate, or an.attached collar on a dress or coat. A black afternoon dress for instance, will have a cape-collar trimmed in front with a pink, satin bow, a flat bertha cape will be attached to an afternoon dress under a scarf collar tied in a satin or velvet bow. CHECKS, EVERYWHERE. Cheeks are everywhere, both for day and evening. They are of every type —checkered, pied-de-pqule, scattered squares, distinct of obscure, printed, or woven—but they,will be small. Sometimes they are used for entire costumes, or for dresses under plain coloured coats, skirts with plain jackets, jackets with plain skirts or dresses. In silks, they are used for blouses and day-dresses and ensembles, and, newest and most striking of all, in brown and white for dinner ensembles and evening dresses. Black and white checks will be extremely popular for day wear, more distinctive will be cheeks in brown and white, brown'and beige, black and beige, navy and white, or black and white with a decided overcast of grey. Some red and white cheeked silks will be seen for blouses ancP dresses, for spring wear. Vertical I

stripes have had an important revival, woven stripes they aTe, and with widely spaced ribs, or with contrasting woven stripes, and ribs. This for tailor-suits. Cottons with: coloured threads and woven stripes are seen for suits and dresses. Heavy silks with woven stripes appear in day ensembles and evening dresses. Thin silks with pin lines, will be made uj. into blouses, THE COLOUR CARD FOR SPRING. Beige will be the outstanding colour in the- group of neutral shades. It will be seen in every tone, used alone or

combined with other shades of boige, or with brown, or -occasionally, with navy blue. It may' also be used as a background for contrasting colours, or worn with contrasting accessories. It will be tho most useful all-round colour of the year, and it will'be equally smart for informal and formal day clothes. Grey, also in the neutrnl category, will bo exceptionally smart for both day and evening. Here-again, two or more shades may be combined. When used alone (practically all shades of grey will be good), it 'will be seen in suits