Paris in the Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CXVI, Issue 145, 16 December 1933, Page 19

Paris in the Mirror

Written for "The Post" by Germain*.

). PABIS, October 25. ■ Art designers have created frilly, Almy dresses, which, are gossamerJovely in their clinging softness. But •clinging draperies that have nothing to cling to only look pathetically incon.grpus. It is even rumoured that the deep puff sleeves and swathed necklines that are so fashionable have been introduced to hido thin shoulders, slaingy arms, and narrow chests that "bEfriting has produced. But the very -softening of the dresses only emphasises 'the hard angularity of the figure. EVENING SWEATERS. t. Evening sweaters in two-way- elastic, which will fit any woman, aro being "shown in some of the Paris fashion houses. Made in transparent chiffons "or velvets, .witftrtho* elastic thread inter■woven int'o(the fab"ric, these stretchable •jumpers of Je^oafcfexactly; like a sports pullover, ajthough,jpccasionally they are more elaborate,- One chiffon model seen had shorttslfwsr.es made like a couple of Chinese latter,ns. ~ Many are'1 ttie surprises in. store for us this season. The princess line has returned, with, a slim harrow skirt reaching to about seven inches from -the ground for/ day wear, its fullness concentrated a't,tnVback near the hem. There is a new Cape, looking rather jike a straight-jacket, with the side seams sticking out like ridges, and some coats have little shoulder yokes and extra short "sleeves—this for evening wear, of course. Many of the smart evening wraps are trailing or dress-length, and wrap closely round the figure. Waist-length jackets or capelets are generally intended '.to be worn under an ample outer wrap. ALL-SATIN EVENING "ENSEMBLES" FASHIONABLE. The all-satin evening ensemble is one of the- highlights of the autumn fashion '■ picture—specially good in black satin with pale pink bodice and lining. •There'is a controversey raging over the change in tho evening skirtlino. Practically every one I havo seen at the recent fashion showings was apparently narrow, with the fullness gathered to the back, so that it almost had a bustle effect. The few that were different were hobble, one in black moire had a skirt gathered in folds round the hips, and two vertical flounces down tho back beneath a drapery. A new type of suit that has made its appearance has two jackets which, can be worn on different occasions. For instance, with a black cloth skirt there is a red jacket, hip-length, and a dark green jacket for way of a change. "SWEEPERS." ' Sweeper^ hems, in colours contrast-j ing with that of the gown, are a novel! note in evening styles: The "sweepers" which are pleated flounces placed inside skirts give a rustling swish to the gown as the wearer moves. One smart Parisienne wears a gown of pansy blue crepe, with a sweeper hem of wine rod taffetas which is two inches longer than the gown. With it she wears wine red slippers to match the "sweeper." Pesigners'are setting their faces against unmeaning fussiness, though many interesting trimmings will be introduced. ' .Since fashion is always logical, the new silhouette is the natural consequence of the architectural line which has prevailed this year. But, as always, there is an ulterior influence at work. There is an innovation which owes | nothing to the past. This is the tailored evening gown made of a material so 1

heavy that there is no other way of using it. Finger-width scarves are a novel accessory in autumn sportswear. The new designs, which vary from one to two finger-widths, made of knitted wool or silk, aro worn tied closely to the throat. COLOUR. / Green seems designed for great popularity, especially in the lighter and faded tones.' There is. a new shade that

looks like Chartreuse, but which is much less trying to wear, the yellow in it giving it something of the wearablenesa of Patou green, still a prime favourite. There is also a definite movement towards tho lighter browns, and some have a golclcu-ycllow tint in them which is. most fascinating. The popularity of yellow may bo taken to indicate its ascendancy, and with yellow the colours which look well with it will also return to favour—blues, greys, and the whole of browns and oranges. Navy blue, always a perennial favourite, may be relied upon to take the place of

black as the backbone of the autumn wardrobe. It makes into such charming coats and dresses, and even in tulle for evening wear is much liked by aonio women, especially the fair brigade. A. tullo dress worn by a fair girl at a recent diner-dansant at the Bitz was in this sombre hue, and'it! Was enlivened by trimmings-of white and Parma violets scattered hero and there amongst the folds. Green is a chic rainy-day shade. It's the green of leaf-buds and daffodil leaves you should choose. It looks marvellous in the rain, and if you have a blouse of daffodil yellow or woodbrown you will complete the scheme admirably. A rather yiolety navy blue with red, lemon-yellow, or white, is another smart and practical ensemble colour scheme. Brown, with a Pompeian red blouse, or details, is still another, and dull violet with turquoise, i