Paris ie the Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CXIII, Issue 49, 27 February 1932, Page 9

Paris ie the Mirror

Written for "Th» Post" by Germaine.

PAEIS, 30th December.

What do you say to a return of the tight, straight skirt? Nothing has been farther from your thoughts, I expect, and yet some of the designers scorn to be drawn irresistibly towards this1 in-

convenient fashion. For the moment it is confined almost exclusively to some evening frocks, but I have noticed {hat quite a number of the tailored costumes, instead of having the comfortable wrap-over skirt, which also gives that straight, neat line so indispensable in this type of garment, have a slip-in narrow skirt which is the logical precursor of the hobble skirt. Still, women have about 100 per cent, more sense about their clothes than they had during the last "hobble" period, so perhaps this peculiar method of torture will never become fashionable again. If it does, they will only have themselves to blame; it only needs to be ignored to die a natural and uulamented death. But I am not sure that this line for the evening may not appeal to women. Those who arethe happy possessors of a beautiful supple-figure (and this is an essential for this typo of gown, if the wearer is not to look a sight) will probably enjoy wearing a gown which gives "them a long, slender, willowy silhouette. True, they may find it difficult to sit down in comfort, and impossible to do .so iv haste, without danger of a terrible catastrophe, and mounting the stairs or the- steps of a vehicle'may be attended by certain inconveniences. But, dear me!- "II faut souffrir pour etro belle!" THE SHEATH FROCK. You. can always have your skirt slit to the knee, either back or front, if you want to. It is always possible to ignore the inconveniences inseparable from an almost skin-tight narrow frock, and one can admit the beauty of the lines of many of them. The silhouette, as seen in Paris, is never simply a straight and narrow one, and usually the back is softened by cascading flounces or some similar treatment, which is strongly reminiscent of the fashions of the 'eighties by the way. Then goclets are- sometimes introduced into the skirt near the hem, giving a

rather pretty effect. Against this shoath frock, however, must be set several other sillioiscttcs, including the Grecian line, as ivCr! as those lines ""liicli show its obvious influence. One must not forget also the pyjama influence in the new modes which is threatening to overwhelm us iv the very near future. And at the January openings, it is whispered, pyjamas are going to rule tho day with a vengeance. WRAP-OVER COAT TAKES A BACK SEAT. tn spite of tlie constant changes in fashions, there are two or three which seem to havo ao established themselves that tbey become almost a tradition. Take, for example, the Tvrnpover coat, which needs to be tightly hugged round the figure, if the wearer is to keep warm, and the "ensemble" costume, in which the frock matches the coat, or, at least, is obviously meant to be worn with it. Now, both these "traditions" have been swept away with a ruthless hand. For' nearly all the newest coats, whether for morning or afternoon, button up, and the buttons themselves form a most decorative effect. Then, the Paris dressmakers are showing what they call the "separate utility coat," which ia meant to be n-orn with different gowns for morning afternoon, and evening. Sports clothes have jackets which are more fitting than usual, and necklines fit close to the neck, both on. these and on the tricot blouses worn with them. The tuck-in blouse, by the way, is well represented this season, as "is the semi-fitting juniper which occasionally dips at the back, and has little or no trimming. NECK-LINE NOVELTIES. Frocks, especially in the georgettes, crepe de chines, and chiffons, seldom have lingerie collars. They usually have complete neck-lines of their own. The scarf attached to a frock is a novelty, and other novelties are trimming, and tiny yokes which give a very cute, decorative appearance. Neck-lines, in fact, like shoulders, seem to have taken on a new significance. Often a triple row of light or contrasting beads will make the plain round neck of a dark dress look distinctive. Cuffs may be turned back, or be wide and 'flaring, below a slim sleeve, as though anxious to call attention to a pair of pretty hands. MAKE-UP TO HARMONISE WITH NEW COLOURS. The new, brightly-coloured sports clothes, and gaily coloured crepe de chines, georgettes, and voiles undoubtedly call for a special kind of makeup to harmonise with them. . Bed, which is such a favourite colour with brunettes and yet suits some blondes equally well, is nevertheless a colour which is both difficult and dangerous to wear. It really should only 'be worn when one is looking one's best and brightest, otherwise, unless rouge and lip-stick harmonise with the shade of one's material, red c;ni be a most unattractive colour. Creamy white is another colour which suits the dark or fair woman equally well, as it lias the power of accentuating fairness of skin and adding to its charm. A tone of rouge between rose and salmon is most becoming with this colour, while powder should be quito pale. Blue, green, yellow—these last three colours need very careful make-up, as the shades arc so numerous. Complcto hennony and distiuction can only be obtained by using lipstick and rouge which tip" not clash. Thus gveen and blue will usually require pinky tones of make-up/ while yellow will need., either bright red. or orange, according to the richness ol' colour and material. ' SEQUINED CAPS FOB EVENING WEAR. Parisiennes are wearing sequiiied caps in the evening. These little caps are woru fashionably on the side of the head, with beautifully waved hair well in evidence on the off-side. As for the Empress Eugenic hat, I am afraid it is dead. Talk to a Parisienne about the Eugenic hat, and you will get nothing but scowls and expressions of anger. All say they wish they had never seen the ugly thing. The boom in ostrich feathers has waned, arid very few women of distinction care to be seen with a hat, usually very small, turning up sharply on one side and' covered with tossing ostrich plumes.