Paris in the Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CXI, Issue 138, 13 June 1931, Page 9

Paris in the Mirror

"written for "The Port" by Germalne.

PARIS, loth April. ! The Longphamps races opened yesterday under ideal conditions. The thousands of Parisians who flocked to the Bois de Boulogne found it decked out in diaphanous green, and' bathed in golden' light. One might have imagined the scene .to be a springtime celebration, and that Paris was emptying itself of its folk to pay tribute to the scene. Endless streams of motor-cars flashed and gleamed througn the avenues soon after the luncheon ■ hours, while hundreds of men and'women went to the races on foot. For an opening day, the attendance was one of the best on record, both in the paddock and in the popular enclosures. Women were present in strong force,-but most of them.; wore

warm fur coats. Many, however, were in tailor-made costumes, with handsome furs. The short, tight-fitting jacket, fur-trimmed, was much in evidence. Tweeds, which were completely demobilised and scattered, have come back with full force, and were seen worn by some of the smartest women decorated with now tiny patterns and checks. And the plaids that all Paris is flaunting added a bright colour-note to the brilliant sccno. Hats, with garlands of many-coloured velvet flowers, were just irresistible —so flattering for young

faces. The older women were wearing tricornes and bi-cornes, these hats having apparently ousted, for the moment, the little close-fitting cap, ■which, has had its day, so the milliners say. ■ •. ■'',"■ THE FEMININE MOVEMENT OF MODES. The feminine movement of modes, which still dominates clothes, has tended to turn all of us into women— flappers included. Great has been the scorn of the Paris dressmakers for anything .approaching the adolescent in aspect or spirit. But in the mid-season shows of Paris, that look ahead to summer, it is observed that .the flapper feeling-is cropping up again in fashions. There isn't so much fitting—demandIng a developed figure. A little less sophisticated drapery is hiing round dresses. There is a heap more simplicity, and loads of down-right youthful details. Even hems show a tendency to come up in the world—a concession to strenuous youth and its times. Daytime skirts are freedom itself—almost any length, is considered smart. The waistline problem is equally uncontrolled, with, the majority of Paris fashion potentates voting in favour of more skirt to less waist—a proportion that is essentially suitable to the young in figure at least, if not in spirit. Day-time clothes that have fashion importance are smart, simple in effect, and young in spirit. ' The short jacket, worn with a onepiece dress, with blouse' and skirt, or over a suit, is a Paris favourite, and unusually good for the young girl. Short jackets are going to be worn a great deal, and in green, for early spring wear, with or without a fur collar. They have that vernal touch that is just the thing for the season. NEW MILLINERY. The new millinery includes hats that are thrilling for all ages, but particularly for the girl with a fresh complexion and youthful contours. As I have just said, hats are going to be flower-trimmed once more, and garlands of beautiful flowers, wound round closefitting turbans, a la nymphe, are the newest of the new—and a flattering mode for the young face. The closefitted crown of knitted wool, with broad braids of shaded velvet ribbon wound around the head, are new, and very becoming. For afternoon wear, and with formal costumes, the large hat with a wide brim will give quite a new silhouette, but of course this kind of hat is impossible to wear with a high collar, or a far of any kind. These large hats are being made of the thin, lightweight straws which are so comfortable. They may be faced with the material of the gown they accompany, or have a scarf of the same fabric tied about the crown. COLOUR.

This season the dressmakers have outstripped all previous achievements in their use of colour. They will put colour on the tennia court of the, world with their dress in pink, blue, or burntorango. Golf courses, too, they aim to brighten with purple and cerise, not singly, but in combination. One of the outstanding golf costumes seen is a combination of purple'and cerise. Grey, well thought of as a smart shade last spring, is even bettor liked this autumn. There are many grey dresses, these ranging from pearly shades to deep smoky effects. Then there are grey lace dressps —in steel-grey, in smoke-grey, and in palo grey. Loud colour notes are struck with firm fingers in tho belting of bright red dresses with brilliant green. Occasionally, colour splashes <m

a grey dress are seen, as when deep red roses mark the end of a silvery evening gown, cut to tho waistline in the back. COLOUR IN SPRING LINGERIE. Colour is superlatively important where-lingerie is concerned, and may match the accessories of your costume; or the costume • itself. ■ Turquoise lingerie to tie up with turquoise accessories is tho preferred under-tone. Ash-pink is another. White, or black and white, daytime lingerie is to be had for the millions of magpie devotees. Materials, in the preferred category, are crepe de chine, lusterlcss satin, silk linen, and silk batiste. The daytime idea of avoiding all transparency via your lingerie has its partisans for evening also, and the dressmaker who dressed her mannequins only in pink silk jersey bathing-suits under flowing evening skirts' has not succeeded in her daring plan. As a matter of fact, there is a great gasping going on in the best society over the idea, and a great protest from husbands. However, the only real nice foundation for an evening gown is the crepe de chine or chiffon combinaison-jupon, that reaches just to or below, the knees. When the- foundation follows the dress town to the ankles or below, it is split somewhere, to display the legs in glimpses. Long-sleeved , nightdresses are the smartest of the smart in Paris, and their decolletees are modest and draped, collared, or hidden by capes and berthas. Sleeping pyjamas, with all the boyishness extracted from their lines and details, arc favourites. They are mostly belted with ribbon belts.