London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CX, Issue 137, 6 December 1930, Page 19

London Fashion Notes

Specially Written In "The Post." I

10th October.: Chilly days are increasing our ' interest in coat frocks suitable to be ■ worn with furs, and even top coats arc sometimes . necessary, when the : wind veers round to the east. Now while all the best dressmakers have decided that 'evening gowns must be long, they are equally agroed that clothes for the daytime .'shall remain

ing caracul fur. • The waist was tightly belted, and this is another feature of the new coats—nearly all havo a belt of sorts, even if only a half belt at the back or front. Tunics, both long and shortj are on many of the new dresses. .Nearly every collection .shows one particular model, which, incidentally, I saw on a client[at Seville's smart,show. ;It.was amusing to watch her gasp of, recognition: she had- probably, just bought it in Paris,' and I am afraid she will find it extensively copied.' In. this ; case the , tunic is long, and close-fitting, .and looks.all in one rwith the brown and yellow, tweed dress. Outlining i the 'yoke and - edging .■ the tunic, wrists | and skirt,'is an uneven "type of scallop,' and -, a brown, leather waist band with tweed' toque to match. \ The top coat "shown with this'had; a high Medici- collar of, nutria fur' and long tight sleeves without any fur on the cuffs. . , The coat frock I have sketched is also the favourite model of moro than one dressmaker. It., was ;in dark blue very, light-weight woollen fabric that had a thin line of white forming a large faint.check in it, and the clever line of the bodice is - as" useful for a heavily built woman, as ; for ' the slim sisterhood who are studied so 'assiduously by those who ' design .clothes. The white crepe outlining the bodice composed the flower, and ; a white tie of soft shaved lamb that looked: like velvet matched the white lamb bag, while blue shoes showed strappings of white kid, and a little • white cap faced with blue. White caps are amazingly fashionable—you even find them in. company with sables and velvet. At the fashionable : hour in 'Bond street you can often count six in as many minutes— white angora, white jersey; white chenille, >or white broadtail—trimmed with minute black bows. It is an a-mus-ing fashion that will remain with us ■just • until the , fogs make .their ; arrival! • ' • . The charm of the frill, is shown in a hundred 'different ways ■ this season, and, incidentally, they are extremely useful in bringing a last season's model up-to-date. A plain afternoon gown: that just had a V neck-line and N narrow waist belt had two little flounces,put in the bodice—at the bolero line—just slanting up to meet the V of the.neck, and the same,idea was carried out on the > hips for a basqued effect, the frills being a' tiny bit: deeper. A deep pleated frill, of,white 'georgette with pleated turn-back , cuffs to mateli will give a very fresh touch to any dark gown., .. . ' A simple black' evening ■. gown will look up-to-the-minute if a "Canezou" of cream lace is added. Canezou is the real Victorian name for the frill of 'i.aco that is arranged in the new-"off the ■ shoulder" line on so many:of the B-elvet'evening dresses. A deep frill of lace>t ; the bottom of i short evening dress,' and one.of these frills on ■ the bodice is a most successEul way of achieving a 1930 look. Pichus—some' almost as •■■ important looking as shoulder" capes—in white and black, and' delicate colourings, make pretty finishes to dark dresses. One smart dress in black, georgette und cream lace had a chiffon over3ape, which, when I came to. examine it, was. merely .a huge square of chiffon, with a hole cut in the centre and thrown over the head, draped prettily round the figure. . • This • idea. I have, successfully used ma white and black spotted chiffon svening frock, adding a matching flare if black chiffon to the nneven flounce at the bottom of the skirt, and long black gloves. RUTH SIBLEY.

a ,practical • length. ■ T,ho usual crop, of freak' afternoon. gowns—too' elabor-! ate. for,the majority of women in this" work-a-day world—are gradually .fading out- of- the -collections, leaving the, new ideas to be incorporatodinto graceful, gowns'to suit our busy lives. , The directoire ' line shown itself, on some long, clinging coats, cut with' a high waist and. perhaps four, buttons on the double-breasted front, and with large turn-over collar pushed up at the back, a la Scarlet Pimpernel. " Sometimes the collar is developed into a three-cornered cape reaching nearly to the higher waist-line. Again, the collars are soft, draped narrowly at the back: to break into square revers that almost .cover the fronts -of the coat. They may be matched'by huge square cuffs. I saw, an attractive model like ,this in beige face cloth with the collar and] wide- rovers and-huge' cuffs of match- ]