Paris in the Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CX, Issue 112, 8 November 1930, Page 19

Paris in the Mirror

Written for "Ths Pott" by Germain*.

■ - PARIS,--10th September.----t MILLINERY SECRETS. "What'; secrets have the milliners' in preparation for :us for our .winter models? They,'no less .than the dressmakers, take the. greatest precaution to pi-event '• their,' new ideas from leaking •.. out .before they are ready. There is little: doubt, however, that this winter milliners will experiment with vanous:materials other'than felts or laupes, as well as combinations of materials. Some;'indication . of this has already been-'given this summer, wh'on various types of linens-and similar fabrics were used,-with extraordinary sueccss, in an •effort ■to -get" away from straw. At many.of the smart, functions during tt>& past month it was shown Uow additional- interest could, be given to the big. hat by the .use of -satin or velvet for the entire crown.. The result was usually piquant, for the'brim, in straw, might bo a .natural shade, , and thedraped:crown.of black velvet, or satin, might bts used for the crown, and the largo, brim'be in some delicate nuance of blue or 'green.. Such hats, of. course, demonstrate-how much- they depend for their cftect on the -scheme of the. designer. In fact, the milliners, evonin their:.simplest■ mbdels, have drawn a

harpbr .line jth'an / over -between the; rork"'o£:an.L-a.rtist. and>tliat of van.- uu-magihatiye-though skilled wbrfcei1; ■ HAT DEVELOPMENT. Most-'important 'in hat .developmeiit s >th«" departure froiii the standard form >f'jtie-.felt : ;:aiid-,tJie stiff .buckram 'form ia?which"hats. so long were shaped. To-. [ay ■" the ■'• little - 'l>onne ts' are made' on Leads,"andi?titei'>.'. larger,, draped, and

broad-brimmed cloches on a "wooden doll." They are marvellously limp, except where the undrapeu brim needs slight support, but. all crowns and bonnet shapes are so delicately' constructed that they are- lined with silk moussclinc or crepe, georgette. There is no unnecessary stiffening in them, as the- human.head is intended.as their only form. They arc pulled on, .and fitted down like a glove., around, the sides of the face and neck. Practically every new hat except 'the,.broad-brim-med "afternoon hat is closely fitted | against the napo of; the neck in most j exquisite.' lines, ensuring perfect comfort .when worn with the incoming high full fur collars. lCver! the tiny vermilion velour.: bonnets, which, are being featured, for .youthful wearers, creep down against the. nock. These aro untrimmed and depond for their chic on the curved sections stitched together, by machine. , ■ : , ' . .MATERIALS FOR MILLINERY. Everything points to a big revival of voTvet for the autumn. Great efforts were- made last year to bring it back into the scheme of things, bjafc not with 'much success.'' This 'year, however, the results' of all those efforts seem likely'to be felt, and velvet will probably be one,of the most important materials for the autumn and winter seasons. • : . .• ' ' • Several largo velvet hats, which quaintly emulate the "floppy" appearance of the, straws, were seen ' this summer, worn with long chiffon gowns. They were charming/but as they were ■uncommonly^ warm..for. a summer's day they were' discarded, by'most .women—a foregone .'conclusion!'. .'. ■ . NO TRIMMINGS FOE MILLINERY. J • "No trimmings/not' even an. ornament, unless1 occasionally in some unique crystal 'design," :say v the big milliner's.'" The great' creators of the mode, insist upon extreme .•' simplicity. There' may be ;a tiny 'feather-''fan-tnsie" where: tb.e fold' occurs, in a -fine taupe,'1 but in the main., it .is .the: twists and rolls, of the- hat material, that -ensure. ,the new effect.' The doiij't' seem ijo'• be ableHo. decreaso tneir prices.for- those uritrimmed^ihoddls1, and when.'you'• timidly "inquire-of 'the milliner if a little crystal •ornament' Blight 'not v be added to'a'felt.shape you are contemplating'; the purchase vof-- she forthwith increases • the :prico;of • -the' same. to '■ an' alarming ■' extent.- .■' These un'trimmed hats are a'godsend to'mil-, liners,' just tho same, as'- bobbtsd -heads are to coiffeurs.'. Oelarappprtol:' ■' ■:■! , ' FASHIONJHINT.S.G, .V '''■ , iDi-ess. designers are'doing their best to ifoist: the; longer .skirt \ fashion, if or daytime weni-.- '. ,- ; .i , : ,'. ,' : .: Whateyxjr ,the jpowers ,that be decreed, tho new' skirt length will be .about sixteen inches, from the- "gro'unc .for walking, suits, and that; seems.■'fairly long. ■". , ■~ ,■ " ■. .. . Thero-is-little,.fear that.the ; modern woman will 'Cypr dream of allowing her skirts to traif the street pavements, especially, in -wintor 'time.. ;■■• ■' ■,;■..■• There-are three fashionable s'ilhou' «';tes: Orie for the' morning with, the skirt a reasonable, length, one..for-the afternoon, wh'oa the dress: may take the happy mean, .and vyct another, a-sil-houette for. the evening wlien' thedress may have a skirt as 'long and-ias: flowing as the designer pleases. ,:,.,,. ...:. A-new.noto.for sports clothes is seen in. tho "tennis pyjamas,'.'■ which/consist of a short' frock- with ■a; divided skirt over short knickers .to, match— I one;bf'the- most practical suggestions we haye had :.f or:. sports: .w.earvfdr.' a ■considerable time....... . ,' . ~/. .Tuxu ■ back e'olla.r.s. a,ndj,enffis..iti:.whiteor ecru lace ii'nish"'' both ■ dresses' and blouses, and there ■ are- ,a", goo'd 'many lace .jabots, ■of ten..,wora-. outside" the coat. . .'•....■ ■■■ ■' ,'•'.,■ ; . An'intriguin'g evening hat has .made its bow. to 'the Paris public". It is a tight turban-of !silv&r' lauie-withaband of ..black wound diagonally, around, the cap, Hindu, fashion. ;, . j Pockets are coming Into ' fashion: again. ' ■ ■, :■ • •■'... :. . ■ , ■'■"•