London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CIX, Issue 39, 15 February 1930, Page 19

London Fashion Notes

37th Dccenfljcr, 1929,

There is a. decided "morning after" atmosphere, about London to-day. Bond Street seems, wrapped in slumber with very few shops opened for business, while in the commercial section of the city the absence 9f people and traffic makes familiar, streets unrecognisable.

With Christmas weather almost as mild as yours iv New Zealand, wo are wondering" if our winter is going to start iv earnest in the New Year, for although we have had gales of wind and deluges of rain, frost and snow have appeared only in the north.

Fashion is indeed marking time, with shops preparing for the after-season sales,. and in consequence less attractive to those who seek for novelties.

During the last two weeks : in the shops and restaurants crowded with smart women, .the .predominance of black is remarkable. ,• Indeed, one might say that fa.shioit regards black as the only smart wear of the moment, for nearly all the women who came in

loaded with parcels to lunch at the "Grosvenor" might have been twins. Each'wore a black cloth, pony skin, or Persian lamb coat, trimmed with a dark fur over a black velvet, satin or crepe dress,. with a large diamond brooch and strings of pearls. Each had a. close-fitting hat of black felt, hatters' plush,, or velvet pushed off the face, and quite a number wore a real .flower posy-r-gardenias, violets, or lilies of the valley—for.real.flowers arc very ' fashionable, once more, and if one can afford to' indulge in this extravagance, it is the ■ loveliest and most excusable of. all Dame Fashion's whims. In Paris I-hear, the black craze is even more persistent, relieved occasionally by a white blouse or! elaborate collars and cuffs of white pique, linen, tucked chiffon or crepe. Smartest of 'all the black modes is a, costume of fur fabric. When you seek a new outfit: for. cold weather remember that a costume —skirt with short or three-quarter coat—of black broadtail fabric with blouse or jumper of off-white satin and the coat lined to match, is the most up-to-the-minute ensemble you can choose. Next season it may become popular, but at the moment it is exclusively chic. Broadtail or Breitschwantz, too, is seen in blonde, pale grey, and also in white, the white being very new and elegant.. A tailor-made in black breitschwantz trimmed with the same fur. in white

is considered the last word in elegance for afternoon wear. The craze for dyed furs persists-—ermine dyed black and almost lacquered, is seen in wonderful afternoon coats,'and for trimming evening cloaks. Personally, I consider it little short of a crime to reduce this glorious fur-to the level of an ordinary dyed rabbit, and that is what it might easily be—except for the price. * . .

But indoor fashions are the most important with us during these dull months, for unless one is blessed with a car to journey abroad in, outdoor modes are apt to become more practical .than pretty. The afternoon froak ,as distinct from the jumper suit of old has become a boon to most women who long for variety and the feminine touch to lend gaiety to their wardrobes.

Any old coat that covers; a frock can be made to do duty so long as the frock beneath brings beauty and brightness to a gathering of friends — for this is the party season when blinds arc drawn early and soft lamp light and blazing fires welcome the guests to bridge or tea or cocktails. ■ These afternoon gowns often become quite luxurious affairs of ring velvet', soft satin, and delicate georgette crepe. They are longer than usually associated with day-time clothes, being at least six inches below the knee and the hem may be even or slightly dipping, but. the pointed draperies seem to have slipped out of favour.

I have sketched one seen at a very smart show last week. It was in black satin and honey-beige lace, and particularly graceful.

This, idea of a contrasting coloured yoke effect can be used in many materials, for I saw one in black crepe with a deep yoke and sleeves of pale sunshine yellow, worn with a black broadcloth coat that was lined witb the same yellow crepe.

Also it struck me as a. useful design if you want to renovate and disguise an old frock when the scarf-collar could be omitted and a plain V-neck substituted for more simple occasions.

The scarf and scarf effect put on with a careless gesture (apparently careless but really studied) is always charming, and.there are many of these small scarves that are worn to cover the neck, in front, and left to fall in two.ends a little way down the back of the shoulders.

The skating craze is upon us. Palatial ice rinks are springing up like mushrooms in London and its environs, and the vexed question of ice modes is causing quite a little anxiety amongst enthusiasts.

It looks all wrong, to see people a?tired in correct winter sports costume —as though tlvey are about to embark down the famous1 Crssta Kun—equally ridiculous to sco a novice dressed in the Eussian ,blouse and flared furtrimmed skirt of the professional skating champions.

In case this craze has spread overseas let me advise you to stick to a fairly short skirt—either flared or pleated—with under-kniekers and stockings that match. Then a pullover, rather short, or a vest and coat, may be as gay as one likes, with close hat and gauntlet gloves.

One very young and amusing get-up seen recently was a plisse skirt in pale yellow with knickers to match. The jumper of white wool was worn with bolt of yellow suede that had a white buckle. On the front of the jumper at ono side are embroidered motifs in yellow wool, and the scarf, which may be threaded through a loop on one shoulder, was in white and yellow, yellow beret and pull-on doeskin gl6ves, and this costume is as charming for , summer, sports as for indoor skating which added to its attractions. KQTH SIBLEY. .