FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON

Evening Post, Volume CVIII, Issue 120, 16 November 1929, Page 23

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON

(Specially Written for "The Post.")

LONDON,, 27th September.

Everyone is revelling in the prolonged sunshine, out it is a sore trial to the dressmakers. Firstly, it is r-aking many people linger in the country, when they should be ordering new clothes, and secondly, it is too warm to induce people to clamour for autumn tweeds an,d jerseys, even though their summer clothes have a very tired look.

But the new frocks are so alluring that women find them irresistible, and there is such a decided change in many of the vital points that, weather, or no weather, the dressmakers are sure to score in the end. They always do!

Evening frocks must be long. A few are still short in places, but the newest and most attractive models are really long all round. It came as a shock to see a mannequin lift her skirt at the back as she tripped off the velvet "run-a-way" during a big show, held yesterday at the Hotel Cecil.

fudging by her looks, I don't imagine she had ever done such a thing before in her young life. Lifted skirts and lace petticoats seem to belong to another era.

The lace petticoat has not yet arrived but who knows—it may be on the way! Frankly, the 'frocks, for the evening are lovely. The design er^ have so cleverly combined the modern ideas with the charm of other days, and the result is to give us long, graceful gowns free of all distortions,

[ that mould the figure, enhancing the traditional beauty of the female'form divine. Wvimen take on an added aignity with' their lengthening skirts, for in t'le partially concealed movement there is most allure. And. now for a few of the lovely frocks I have already seen. Generally speaking, plain colours are more popu- , lar than printed materials. By which . I do not mean to imply that printed i materials are not being ' shown, but they are uo longer "it." Chiffon, chiffon moire, f 'chiffon taffeta, chiffon velvet, panne, tulle, and lace are all employed in the new, evening frocks and wraps. ' ■ L There is less lame, and fewer allbeaded frocks, although coats in both these mediums are often added to plain frocks. .■".. , The newest''colours are the light and 1 dark shadings of the dahlia, a good deal of purple, bottle green, chocolate brown, and prune. These dark colourings' give an unusually new effect to 1 a simple gown, but they need clear complexions and well-groomed, bur- [ nished heads to be successful. There is quite a lot of brilliant red, Burgundy red; off-white, and, of course, black. Indeed, black and black and white effects always create the most ■ enthusiasm in these large collections. '. The evening coats are usually threequarter length, allowing- the long draperies of the frock beneath to balance the picture, and there are still a few short jackets / made in the same material as the frock. I have sketched a black and white 1 e-vening ensemble, which was stunning. : The frock was of black chiffon and; the wrap of white^panne lined with black ■ velvet,, and the facings and ruckled cuffs of the same material. The only ornaments worn were a i diamond lavallier, many . diamond bracelets, and her little bag of black had a clasp and mountings of dia- : monds and marquisate. ' Another all black velvet model was cut with clinging lines that caressed " the figure to below the hips. Here the fullness was achieved by shaped godets, which were stitched to form a design round the hips, and falling into deep points that trailed the ; ground at the back. ,' A black velvet three-quarter wrap ! was worn with this, that had a high sable collar and deep turn-back cuffs

edged with bands of sable, and a soft mutt made of a wide band of the same tur with pointed flounces of black velvet on each end. A frock of broche moire in bright red looked the simplest possible model, until examined, when the intricacy of tne cut and working of the material convinced one that << running up ,, a little evening frock is indeed a thing of.the past. A long slim girl looked' adorable in perfectly plain purple chiffon dress fitting the figure. A tiny belt of its own material round the natural waist I 1 fastened with a crystal buckle to match the rope of twisted crystal, which was her sole ornament. This dress almost reached the ground all round, and was cut very full at the nem; one just saw a glimpse of tiny purple slippers as she walked. While most of the suits, coats, and •raps are lavishly trimmed with fur, tliere is --cry little on the evening dresses.this season. One exception to this was a frock •Ji , ehiffon> cut square at the neck, with bJy of the valley green shoulder straps, and a belt of the. same delicate green The chiffon skirt was very tull from the waist, and opened down tne tront over a satin slip, and fell to about nine inches below the knees where it was bordered by a deep band oi black fox fur. A charming model tor an exhibition dancerl Some frocks seem to consist of many Moating panels over a tight,slip, and the newest of the tulle dresses are in' shaded colours. Paul Caret showed a charming model that, was shaded bhie^and green, giving the effect of peacock- plumage. Round *vi y waiat was an exquisiu belt on blue and green, enamel and silver links specially designed by the famous Lauque. t<% Frocks are bound to be more expen sive this year, because so much more material is needed to fashion them but a clever woman, who has a reliable dressmaker, can achieve distinction by carefully choosing a new shade thai is becoming, and having her dress cut long and slim, with much fullness round the ankles. BUTH SIBIiEY.