PARIS IN THE MIRROR

Evening Post, Volume CVIII, Issue 120, 16 November 1929, Page 23

PARIS IN THE MIRROR

: (Written for "Tlie Post" by "Germaine.") PARIS, 19th September. ■ The first few weeks of presentation of winter costumes by the couturiers of Paris seems to indicate that simplicity of effect and refinement of detail are the direction which the mode is taking. Most of the houses are showing fewer models than last season, but those shown are studied carefully to achieve ; novelty, by unobvious means. Relatively few colours are used, but most of them are rich, and all harmonise remarkably, while a greater variety of fabric textures than has even been seen before is the factor which contributes this new refinement. A.JAPANESE LINE. The greatest novelty in line which has "yet been presented is the new Japanese silhouette. A dress rehear--BJ." presentation was held at a famous dressmaker of the Eve de la Paix, and costumes of the Far East have given

her the theme for new colour-combina-tions, while.the-graceful, slender silhouette of Japanese women, modified to suit Western needs, have created a silhouette loosely fitted at the shoulders, closely fitted at the hips, flat at the back, full' in front or side-front, and ..often., with: panels elongating the silhouette. Imitating the "Obi" sash hip girdles and the fitting of long tunic effects,' two belts are often placed, ■one.above and the other at the normal waistline.. The length of skirts varies considerably; sometimes they are just below the knee, sometimes longer than we'have seen in daytime costumes for many seasons. ■ MANY NEW IDEAS. Many new ideas in handling fullness and in trimmings appear, as well as the .' ' transformation" costumes and the ■little .detachable scarf and cape, which are this season treated with great skill. A; novel note is provided by scarf'shaped bands attached to sleeves at the. elbow, and falling kimono sleeveilines provide another. Bounded tunics covering, half a skirt are being shown. With regard to. trimmings, the diagonal line in particular has given many trimming motifs which record with the simple,, light, useful character of the blouse and skirt costume. This diagonal line is also stressed in the outline of the pleated' panels which widen some skirts over each, knee, and the is likewise repeated by a little chemisette with , rolling cellar that

points-to the "V" o f the nock. The diagonal lines continues so logically that it becomes a spiral giving a totally different effect to the. pleated skirts. For'instance a grey dress is cut on a diagonal line about the hips, showing the pleated skirt on a sliding scale, as it were. A band of the fabric edges the sloping edge of the bodice. Hay ing found its direction, it continues to go on, something like the stairway that leads up to the tower of Notre Dame, except that the stairway is inside and' the band "is outside, which is a good thing, for it is rather pleasant to see. SOME OF THE COSTUMES. Seen at an opening in the Champs i-lysees yesterday afternoon .was a crinoline, frock in black taffetas, with a design of red roses running-diagon-ally across rhe skirt. This was no mere robe-de-style, for the skirt hung on panniers on each side, which necessitated the mannequin turning slightly to pass through the door. A very similar frock in brilliant green was backless, with three rows of pearls fastened round the neck by a jade clasp holding tb corsage; the lower of the two tiers on the, skirt was edged with green leathers. By way of contrast, after this was shown a slim frock in black embroidered in white in a lattice design, and having a wispy peacock train edged in ermine. An ermine fichu was worn with this frock, which was original. > WHAT ABOUT COLOURS THIS SEASON? What about colours for the autumn season? We were told that green would be one when the fashions came out. And it will be worn this year especially that deliriously cool, willowygreen that is so becoming to blondes, and can be worn almost as well by brunettes. Then there is blue. Frenchwomen do not take to this very English colour: in any shade except navy. Iheir practical minds realise how well that looks,for simple town frocks and tailor-mades. The ■ turquoise shades, the royal blues, periwinkle, and peacock are much more loved by blue-eyed English girls than by their French sisters It is-to, be hoped that some of the soft turquoise-shades will be worn this seaITa f°£ *hey a ne love!y in georgette and taffetas. ■■ Then there is red; it will be worn again. Its vivid charm is what our.modern girl likes. She strikes directly with red. A red frock tor dancing, a red jumper on a navy blue skirt, a red coat, offer them to any girl with a love for vivid things, and she will take them all. Yellow, too has charm. There is something about a yellow chiffbn dress,-all tucked by hand, trimmed with yellow flowers and green.- leaves, and- worn by a darkhaired girl with amber eyes, or a fairunforgettable .once seen in a ballroom. EAST MEETS WEST. Jade earrings and pins carved in the form of Japanese ideographs are the thing this season. We all want to look as Japanese as we can. Many are the women owning "Coolie Coats" inscribed with yet other ideographs, winch are decidedly decorative. These handsome bits -a Oriental writing indicate the profession of the coolie for whom the coat was made. Some read. Street. Sweeper," others "Water MaT" T,Btill .° therS "*<*«£" Man. ' It may be funny to the Japanese to Bee Western women wearing such proletarian garments.in gorgeous fabrics.. But turn about is ffir plly It appears, that Western fashions are beginnings have a vogue in China and Japan, and the very latest things worn _by Japanese flappers are earrings in the form of Arabic numerals