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HOT WEATHER PLANTS

KUMARAS AND CORN

HIXTS FOR GEOWERS

NOTICE TO READERS.

This column is intended principally for gardeners with small plots, and the aim is to make it as practical and useful as possible. Inquiries on any matter of gardening interest will be welcomed. The rule for correspondence is that all communications must be accompanied by tho nama and address of the writer, not for publication, but as a guarantee of good faith. This rule will be strictly adhered to. This is your column—make use of it

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

"Lofty Hutt."—Seed-raising has been very uncertain this season on account of the numerous cold spells we have had. The seed in most cases germinated all right, but before the tiny plants had got. rooted properly the cold weather nipped them off. Collar rot has also been unusually prevalent, -and has accounted for many failures. The probable cause of your pansy seedlings dying off is collar rot. For seed-raising manure is not necessary in the soil—in fact, it is better to omit it. The common varieties of pansies will come easily from seed in the open ground, but the more choice exhibition strains are often weak growers, not having the vigour of the common varieties. The soil is best sterilised by placing it ii a tin In the oven and giving it a good baking. This will destroy any insect pests weed seeds, and disease germs that may bo present. Put the soil (which should be rubbea through a fine sieve) into a shallow box and ing it firm and smooth. Give it a good soaking with water and allow to stand for at least twelve hours before sowing the seed. Sow the seed thinly and cover very lightly with fine soil, afterwards placing the boi in a shady place. Prick oft the young seedlings into other boxes, ur into prepared beds as soon as they, are large enough to handle, allowing two inches between Ihe plants. Keep uniformly moist and plant out into flowering quarters when the plants have attained a fair size. Dianthus or Indian pinks are perennial plants, except for a few varieties. They" will continue to grow and flower for several years, and may be increased ijuite easily by division of^the roots. Anemone seed is somewhat slow to germinate. As soon as they are large enough the seedlings should be thinned out to -six inches apart, those removed beinc replanted. Towards the end of siimmervor in the autumn the foliage will probably die off, reappearing in the spring, when iho plants should flower. It is best not to attempt to lift the roots while dormant, as they are very tiny and difficult to find among the ■oil. ■ "- '

A.8., Brougham street.—Tour trouble is apparently some fungoid disease in. the soil. It may be, and most probably is, collar rot, which has the very disconcerting habit ~of attacking plants just as they are coming into llower. This disease attacks all sorts of plants, not only annual seedlings, although it is more often these which are affected. On one occasion I had a splendid plant of purple clematis just coming into bloom, perfectly healthy in the morning apparently, and by midday quite dead. The best known preventive is "Chishunt" compound, made and used as follows: Thoroughly powder and mix together 2oz Milestone (copper sulphate) and Uoz ammonium carbonate. Place in an airtight receptacle, a screw-top jar is best, as tins are liable to rust. Allow to remain for twenty-four hours before using. Dissolve loz to the gallon of water, sfld apply to the soil by means of a watering can. This solution may with advantage be applied' to the soil before sowing or planting, and may be given at intervals during growth without injuring the plants in any way. Prom the appearance of the carnation root you sent I should think your soil would benefit by a liberal dressing of lime. This does much to sweeten the soil and to clear it of disease and pests.

J.M.D.E.—Tour tomato plants are most probably affected by collar rot. See answer to A.B. This damping off, as it is sometimes called, is not really caused by too much water although such conditions may encourage it. Collar rot is the result of a fungoid disease, the organisms of which are present in the soil, and which become active when conditions arc favourable.

KUMARAS,

Kumaras, or sweet potatoes, are essentially hot weather plants, and should not be planted, until the weather is thoroughly settled. The plants do best in light sandy soil which should be well enriched with manure and humus. Plants may usually be obtained from seedsmen. The young plants should bo set on the top of ridgea in a recljning position covering the stems as inuebfas possible, leaving the tips out. Plant shallow and water after planting. Keep the soil loose during the growing season by frequently hoeing, and see that the soil is ajways well up round the plants. To prevent the vines from rooting in as they grow they should be lifted occasionally. If allowed to root in at each joint the crop will be spoilt* When preparing the soil give a light dressing of the following mixture:—l part sulphate of potash, 1 part nitrate of soda, and 2 parts superphosphate. Further applications o£ the mixture may be given a fortnight after planting, and again in six ■weeks, well watering it in. The tubers should be 3ug in the autumn during dry weather, care being taken not to bruise the tubers in the operation.

SWEET CORN

This is another vegetable requiring a Warm situation. The ground should be well worked, and liberally manured. Sow in drills 2 feet or more apart, dropping the seeds 3 inches from each other and cover to a depth of 3 inches. Keep the soil loose round the plants from the time ihey appear, and when they are 6 inches high thin out to 12 or 15 inches apart. Remove any suckers or side shoots as they appear, and earth the plants up much as is practiced for potatoes. The cobs should bg gathered and used when quite green—as soon as the tuft of fibre' at the ifop commences to wither.

FRENCH AND BUTTER BEANS.

Tsies§ Bhould be sown at intervals of. three Vreeks or so to ensure a succession of crops. Any good garden soil suits them, but they prefer an open sunny position. Sow in rows 2 feet apart, and 3or 4 inches between the seeds. It is a good plan to sow a double row three inches apart, placing the seed alternately so as to give about 4 inches from splant to plant. The beans should be picked regularly afi soon as fit for use, as if allowed to remain the plants immediately stop bearing. RUNNER BEANS AND PEAS. Where Bpace permits these are more profitable than the dwarf varieties. They iriay be grown on a fence, in which case they do not occupy a great deal of space. When grown in rows, the rows should be sir feet apart to allow air and sunlight to get at both sides of them. The space betoken the rows may be utilised to glow lettuce, cabbage, or other dwarf crops. Runner beans are perennials, and if planted in the first place in ground which has been properly prepared, will last for 3or 4 years. Wood ashes added to the soil before sowing will help the plant 3. Regularly watering, especially during the bearing season, will prolong the time of cropping. Adequate supports must bo provided from the time growth commences. The stakes or fence should be six feet high, and where;1 stakes are used they must be fixed sufficiently firmly in. the soil to prevent them being blown down.

Peas should be sown at regular intervals. It is a good plan to sow another row as soon as the previous one shows through the ground. In this way there are fresh lots coming along throughout the season. It is a mistake to sow the seed too thickly, as crowded plants cannot do justice to themselves. Allow at least two inches between the seeds, and cover to a depth of Vk or 2 inches. Ii dry weather it is a good plan to soak th(

seed before sowing. Germination will then be much quicker.

OTHER VEGETABLES.

Lettuce and radish must •be grown quickly to be at their best, therefore rich soil ia essential and copious watering. The plants must never be allowed to get dry. Lettuces, especially, respond very quickly to applications of nitrate of soda which may be given at intervals of a fortnight, first thoroughly wetting the soil.

Regular spraying of tomato plants •with Bordeaux mixture is the only safeguard against blight. As the plants grow tie them to the stakes at 6-inch intervals and remove, all lateral growths as they appear. The plants may be grown either on one or two stems, but each stem must have a separate stake.

HUTT VALLEY SHOW.

The summer show of the Hutt Valley Horticultural Society takes place in the King George Theatre on Wednesday, 20th November. The schedule includes classes for both amateur and professional growers of roses, carnationß, and sweet peas. Lovers of these flowers are sure of a display of many new varieties as well as of the older favourites. The show opens at 2 p.m., and remains open till 9.30.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/EP19291114.2.186.1

Bibliographic details

Evening Post, Volume CVIII, Issue 118, 14 November 1929, Page 26

Word Count
1,568

HOT WEATHER PLANTS Evening Post, Volume CVIII, Issue 118, 14 November 1929, Page 26

HOT WEATHER PLANTS Evening Post, Volume CVIII, Issue 118, 14 November 1929, Page 26