OF INTEREST TO WOMEN

Evening Post, Volume CVIII, Issue 102, 26 October 1929, Page 21

OF INTEREST TO WOMEN

I SS Abroad and At Home 'T%

THE SCHEME OP THINGS

(By M.H.C.)

It is always a mistake for either man or woman to undertake to write about the opposite sex other than biographically—and that, too, only when it is done purely on the lines of facts, not fancies or ideas. Both are apt to fall into mistakes that can be so easily perceived by the other sex,v and which discount any value attached to the statements made, though they are eagerly caught up by those foolish and irrational persons who try to encourage sex waiyor at least sex misunderstandings, that are so lamentable and do so much to disturb the harmony of the world at large. An amusing gentleman of perfectly positive opinions, who is quite sure that he understands all about women, girls and their education, has come forth with a book entitled "Women and Society." Without in the least understanding what a number of wonderful differences have come about in the world since women have really had some gay in the fundamental arrangements of society, or how many changes they have accomplished in law, order, custom, and the general estimation • of social life, he announces triumphantly that "it is clear that what we are witnessing . to-day is the victory of masculinity." One is driven to wonder why "masculinity" should have fought so desperately against a great number of the things of to-day, have struggled against' the changes wrought by the intervention of women, have used the Press and all the big powers to prevent _cor.es of changes, and, finally, have accepted' the altered status only with resignation and not".'with pleasure. The whole history of the nation since the early Victorian days, so far as social matters are cbnceilged, is a statement of the efforts of womenkind to get a different; status in life for themselves and their children, with only here and there a success, scored by Josephine Butler, or some such outstanding woman, till after the Great War, When women had proved their worth under stress and came into a wider and far happier life. That they are still far from receiving equality in treatment or opportunity is quite true, and it is surely a small and grudging soul that tries to belittle what has been gained, to take away some of the credit, some of the consciousness of achievement, some of the pleasure, by making such assertions, though they will not "hold water." - .Those who have lived a good many years and can look back even to late Victorian days can testify to the enlarged vision, happier circumstances, and general pleasure in the relaxed conditions of life for women. That there is a good deal more to hope for is a fact, _ut when there is a satisfactory retrospect, it is possible to look forward and upward cheerfully, and there are millions nowadays who do so. The good gentleman who writes so finds that at school girls "learn to despise everything with regard to home life," and one can only fear that his experiences have been somewhat unusually unfortunate, also that his information about the world of homes and girls must bo limited in class and extent. Tho fact—which is surely a fact—that a great many prefer eight hours of oflico work to an unlimited number of less well paid domestic duties is not surprising to those who have done both. The summary of duties "to.mend clothes wash dishes, tidy up the sitting room, and take the children for a walk" would make any woman smile, for these few odds arid ends represent such an inconsiderable amount of the work of a homo that they are hardly worth mention-. Tie, poor, man is also "up against" the "obey business," and cannot see why a-woman should not joyously obey tbe man, she has chosen herself within the walls of her own home. Suppose the obedience demanded is outside'the walls of the home, or connected with something which' she knows to be wrong or dishonest —what then? It is all rather funny, but at the same time rather pitiful from the point of view of' tho .mistake it is to write anything without fully- understanding the subject of discourse. Probably if reincarnaton is really a fact—as many people firmly believe—the gentleman may have to come back to earth as the mother of a large family in poor circumstance's. "That -would learn him" as the boys ' »■_>" ■•'"•-. ; Following on the above it is quite interesting to read from an English paper that'"the growth of women's influence in Empire affairs has been a feature, reflected at many important functions in London of late. The re-ceptions-held by the Royal Empire and African. Societies, the Empire Service League's Conference, the British Unions luncheon, and the Nigerian,, Malayan, and ; East Africa annual dinners have tjeen notable for their imposing numbers, of women guests, whose names are linked with great social and. industrial advances throughout the Empire. (Where, one must pause to ask, was the writer of "Women and Society" when these and other functions were going on?) The London writer, contiuuues thus: '.'ln all the colonies and Dominions -women are successfully grap-pling-with the problems on which the future of the Empire, the welfare bf its.peoples, and the prosperity if its commerce and industries depend." Details are given of their work in India ■arid Africa, and the writer concludes thus: "This is Empire-building, indeed, in'-its truest sense.. It is work in which every woman, whoso heart is in the welfare of our great Empire, may take an active part through the societies and leagues at Home whose activities link up with this great work of cur patriotic countrywomen overseas." ■ Compare this cheerful outlook with that of another writer, who, after making comparisons as to the immensely improved comfort of tho modern house with that of tho ancient one, says: Women nowadays do not know anything about labour compared with their grandmothers, who had to do all their own housework, and mako all the family clothes before there were any sewingmachines, or labour-saving devices. No wonder the old cemeteries are full of monuments to devoted wives and mothers who perished in their early 30's." Those were sad days for women, and if the pendulum of liberty swings somewhat too far ahead nowadays, or too quickly for the less wellbalanced ones, it is not surpriadng. These matters, however, will adjust themselves, and the more quickly if a sane outlooK is kept, specially by writers whose duty it is to be "tr,ue and just in all .their dealings" according to the old Catechism\ which was compiled so many years ago. . It is hoped that the fir3t floating aerodrome in the Atlantic will be ready for use by August next year. The aerodrome will resemble a floating island, built to withstand hurricane seas without tossing. Tho island will have a displacement of 15,000 tons, and will be 400ft wide and 1200ft long, with a landing deck of 70ft above sea level, * They will be anchored by great masses of steel and masonary, even where the —"*er is three miles deep.

PARIS IN THE MIRROR

Specially Written for "The Post" by

"Germaine."

PAPIIS, 2Sth August.

It is really becoming difficult for the dressmakers to find a novel manner in which to present their collections, but a certain well-known dressmaker in the Champs Elysees, who gave a private show on- Thursday night, achieved the seemingly impossible. It was called "The Day of the Chic Parisienne," and showed the heroine from the time when she awoke, rubbing sleepy eyes in the morning to find her maid servant beside her presenting the "beauty products" for bath and her toilette, to the hour when, after a supper at Montmartre, she said, good-night. All of her clothes were charming and Wearable, and her costumes, for golf and travelling evoked almost as much enthusiasm as that for hunting—with a long dangerous-looking double-barrelled gun—and the. magnificent toilettes for a formal dinner and

the opera. Th,c description was called out by a. .young- Frenchman, whose quaint English helped to'banish all formality from the gathering sinco it caused everyone to break into gusts of sympathetic laughter. An armful of roses, the long stalks of. which wore tied with ribbons, was handed every woman guest on her entrance. THE AUTUMN FASHIONS. The real keynote of fashions for autumn, from the human point of view, is veryNcompletely expressed in that good old operatic aria, proclaiming to the world that women are changeful, arid "consequently very intriguing and attractive. Tho tailored suit has been definitely revived for morning wear. Its trim, sleek lines and its sturdy materials dramatise the femininity of the wearer by contrast. On the other hand, the foolish draped afternoon gown also has been revived, and. it emphasises femininity just as much. A case in point is provided by two costumes seen at a recent opening. A tailored suit so trim, so neat, and so effective-looking that it makes tho woman look moro womanly is shown. This suit, works ou tho principle of opposite qualities complementing each other. Pale red looks rodder beside green. A woman who may striko ono as "masculine," in a soft sports suit, will become much moro feminine when put into the reverse, the trimncss, the tailoring associated with maseulino costume. To take the extreme illustration, there is no woman who does not look exceedingly feminine when she gets into trousers. The other side is tho femininity stressing' .costume. This is noithcr aerobe do

style nor a.bustle costume. Curves are its duty lines. The creator of this frock has evidently been studying the form of shells, remembering how Venus Aphrodite- rose from tho sea. However, two pronounced curves have been deemed enough for the modern woman. For the rest, this kind of dress is bounded by delicate curves that seem almost to be straight lines, though the suppleness of the cut' makes them bend slightly with every motion. •'AFTER-LUNCHEON" DRESSES. "After-luncheon" dresses have this season taken on the form of a perfect riot of flounces. Flounces in crepon, in chiffon, pleated or gathered, cut on the cross, or on the straight, sloping upwards or downwards, all of them beautiful, frivolous, graceful. As for the now colourings, they ' aro intense, vivid. There is a Japanese green, an English red, and an "egg-shell' .shade which is being much used for evening dresses, instead of white oyster shades, pearly tones, and a lovely aquamarine and outre-mer blue, as well as a range of bronzes for daylight wear, arc some of

the most successful of the many new colourings.

The new materials used are moire and faille, fleiir de laine for sports clothes, and fteur de soie for after-luncheon dresses. There is "Asperic," a woollen texture used for sports clothes, "Lunasol," a thick satin full of lights and shades, and a silky voile named "Natalia.'' EVENING DRESSES. Three evening dresses seen at the openings . are particularly impressive. They are called "Romance," midnight blue crepe with diamond snakes, placed below the bust and hips, and-worn-with a necklace Of cystal leaves; "Stella," a white and silver gown with two'encircling flounces drooping low down at the back; and "Envolee," a brack evening dress wlyeh, though cut on slim and clinging lines,.becomes almost the size of a robe de style, because of the many cone shaped flares, which makes this effective model seem to expand prodigiously. Other lively dresses are "Sole Mio"—a pink tulle trimmed in roses; "Maharanee," gold'tissue trimmed in pearls; "Les. Bouqets de Roses," in tulle degradee 'in peach colourings—all supremely elegant and free from the hypocrisy of false simplicity. SPORTS CLOTHES. _ The sports clothes this autumn are extraordinarily novel. ' Smart symphonies executed in tricot with woven-in bands, and contrasting designs in sports shades, such as Bordeaux, navy, or bottle green. Gay looking printed jersies give to sports clothes quite va new aspect, the materials being used in novel ways. An unexpected note in smart unobtrusive tweed coats consists of a bright tricot lining which is also used for an accompanying scarf. Efrilliantlv patterned little coats of the! "blazer" kind look delightful over plain tricot, as does a grey,cardigan jacket over a violet jersey gdwn. Tweeds are, as always, well selected, and savour of the Scottish moor. NOSEGAYS. With a return to literature of romance, and with the return to women's clothes of femininity, comes the renaissance of the romantic nosegay as an ovening accessory. Little close bunches of rosobuds or pansies, or forget-me-nots, or of all three together, are set in a frill of lace that reminds one irresistibly of an old-fashioned Valentine. These nosegays are meant to be carried with the more bouffant evening gowns. Beally it is delightful to see a slender hand on the dancing partner's shoulder clasping a nosegay rather than a pocketbook.