THE VATICAN

Evening Post, Volume CVII, Issue 73, 30 March 1929, Page 16

THE VATICAN

HISTOB-IC PAGEANTRY

LIKELY TO BE REVIVED

With its wealth of historic and legendary associations the Vatican ranks among the most picturesque places in the world. In the ritual and routine of the Pope's daily life there is a magnificence which though subdued since the dark days, of 1870, may soon, under the influence 1 of.'the new treaty, be restored to the splendour of medieval times.

It is perhaps because of the traditions of centuries that so Jiuch brilliant colouring endures in the ceremonies of the Vatican and in the uniforms of the guards who police its Courts (writes "Vaticanus" iv the Melbourne "Argus"). ..For-nearly GO years the Pope has been virtually a prisoner within the Vatican walls, but the Pope has still been guarded by Swiss volunteers, clothed on special occasion in Damascene armour, and at times, when on duty, resembling the contemporaries of those who fought at Crcey and I.Vtetiers, rather than l.lv- s.iWirrs of !i;ipa lime ajjVHVerdun. In the great coachhouse is siurcd :\w. scarlet and gold coach of State, with its

flying and r trumpeting cherubs. Popes, as in Royal procession and surrounded by all the Papal Court on foot, drove abroad in this coach behind six white horses. During the period in which tho Pope has not. set foot bsyond the Holy Hill, however/, the coachhouse has bocome a-.nVtis.eanr. Only'.once:siUee 1870, when the Pope was deprived.of- temporal power and retired tc.'the. Vatican, has one of the Papal carriages', been seen with the l'opo inside..by. those without the Vatican walls..•'.'■" That was ou loth July, 1890, when Leo. XIII. drove on the road which divides St. Peter's from the Mint. The Mint was the one spot in the Vatican which was seized by the Italian Government. Pope Leo made this "grand geste" to indicate that the road was part of the Vatican precincts to which he limited himself.

WHEN THE POPE EIDES AEB.OAD,

It is almost certain that in the new freedom of tiio Vatican city the Pope will be seen again in all, or nearly all, the rich ceremony which attended visHs beyond the Vatican walls before 1870. When Pope Leo used his "grandgala" coach the whole court of cardinals and Noble Guard walked on foot. In a largo glass case, underneath tho iong gallery of tha. library, now stands this most luxuriant of vehicles. The white horses carried'gorgeous crimson, velvet, ana ormolu trappings. When the Popes of old rode a white mule they sat in a superb saddle, of velvet and silver. If a Pope• rldesragain ■ in State, doubtless he will be ■attended by horsemen dressed in crimson and gold, wearing brass helmets, and. carrying gilt lances, to clear the way. In tha procession, if precedent be followed, may yet be seen again the mace-bearers of the cardinals in scarlet" cloaks embroidered with their masters' arms'in gold and silver, head servants in red! cassocks, pages and servants in gala dress, and the nasters of ceremonies, in long mantles, rising on mules with purple trappings. Upon ceremonial occasions tho Pope appeared in^ his niost gorgeous/ robes. He wore aSvhite; cassock and rochet and a mozctta or cape of crimson velvet edged ,with 7 ermine. His stole was of gold bullion, embellished with great pearls, and over-, his skull cap he wore his Papal hat."; All these vestments and liveries have been 'faithfully preserved; and 1 should the present Pope decide to celebrate the new territorial sovereignty by.a "cavalcata" to take possession of . the Lateran, the same pageant could be reproduced, though 360 years have passed since the coronation of '.Clement; XIV., the last Pope who went through the most picturesque ceremony of the Vatican on horseback.

In their quaint uniforms the Swiss Guards of the Vatican exemplify the spirit of tho medievalism that flourishes in the 'quietness of the Holy Hill. All are aboveaverage height. They have two sets of uniforms, one a motley garb, with buff jerkins slashed with crimson velvet,:'and tho other tho full armour of a: pikema.i of the Middle Ages, with plumed helmet. A group of these famous guards may bo seen always in the 1'; Cor tile della Seutinella. In the retinueof the Pope there are 36 Bussolanti or lay attendants, dressed in crimson velvet, who mount guard over tho Bussola—tha; door for keeping 'out draughts—}vhich gives entrance to tho Pope's private ante-chambers. The first of. a series of these ante-chambers is guarded by gendarmes, and the second ia in charge of the Palatine Guards or Papa! police, who are as picturesque as tho Swiss in quaint medieval uniforms.

SCENES IN ST. PETER'S.

When- the new treaty is ratified by the Italian.Parliament, tho Pope, it is expected, will preside at the celebration of the Te Deum at St. Peter's. This is one of the most picturesque of

Vatican ceremonies, and nn immense congregation assembles in the building. The Pope is vested in white nib with stole and cope of cloth of gol.l. On his head 1.0 wears the tiara or triple crown. Ho enters in a sedia gestatoria or hoodless sedan, borne on the shoulders of eigh» famigii:m, body servants weaving knee breeches or crimson velvet, white threat and cut rutlies, red stockings, and buckle shoos. Heads of Orders, Bishops, and Cardinals surround the sedia, which ia attended by four Swiss Guards, all six feet iv height, arrayed m costumes designed by Michael Angelo and carrying great swords. Walking behind the sedan are the Noble Guards, members of princely families. . They wear plumed helmets, red coats with silver or gold facings, and white buckskin trousers tucked into high riding boots I hey are really mounted infantry. Lining the aisle are the volunteer Palatine Guards, not quite as picturesque, with modern uniform and rifles; while the Papal Dragoons, in huge bearskin busbies, white trousers, and blue coats, keep order in the packed basilica. Prom the balcony above the vestibule of St. Peter's, as soon as the Pope appears, trumpets sound the Papal march, which continues until the Pope reaches lln> concessional or High Altar, under which is the tomb of St. Pete. A vivid touch of «olour throughout his spectacular entry is provided by the flam belli, or fans of peacock plumes

borne by two of tho famigliari. The noiso in the crowded church is almost deafening. Tho dome resounds with shouts of "Viva il Papa Re" (Long: live the Papal. King), and tho scene is animated by the waving of thousands of handkerchiefs, which appear like white butterflies above the heads ot the crowd. The double choir sings "Tv es Pctrus," which practically ends the ceremony.

STUDENTS OF ALL NATIONS

In and about tho Vatican the students oi 1 the- various colleges always add their measure of colour to tho scone. Within tho Vatican are two colleges, tho Roman seminary and the Abyssinian College, but many other colleges, some of university status, are associated with the Vatican under Papal supervision. Conspicuous among the students are the Germans, who immediately .after tho war wore soutanes or cassocks of black, but in recent years have reverted to the crimson soutanes which had hitherto indicated their nationality. There are a largo number of Australians in the Urban College of Propaganda, and they wear'black soutanes, with rod facings and sashes. English, Scottish, Chinese, and other students mingle in the streets surrounding the Vatican, distinguished by tho different colours of the facings, Americans being indicated by blue, Irish by red, and English by plain black. The halls and chambers of the Vatican are in harmony with tho general atmosphere of splendour and antiquity.- In the Hall o? the Beatifications saints on earth arc canonised; there are tho Hall of the Popes, the Hall of tho Madonna, and the Hall of. the Lives of tho Saints, the Hall of the Credo, and the Hall of the Sibyls. Loveliest and most magnificent of all the stairways is the Seala Regia leading to the Royal Hall, in which there are vast frescoed representations of Roman Catholic triumphs beneath a richly gilded ceiling, fretted and carved. It is said that tho Vatican, the largest palace in the world, looks more like a Parliament House than a palace, and that it lacks the romantic splendour of Windsor or the grandeur of the Louvre. There is, however, nobility in

its architecture, and, above all, perhaps, there is an indefinable quality of atmosphere and colour mellowed by centuries of tradition.