FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON

Evening Post, Volume CVII, Issue 10, 12 January 1929, Page 14

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON

(Specially Written for "The Post.") LONDON, 23rd November. The day of the 1 happy-go-lucky-como-as-you-please- and .. • bring-whom-you-pleaso party seems to be over. I hear, that guest lists arc: most -carefully arranged and perfect entertainment devised by the really, hospitable hostesses for private house parties are much in vogue. ' Social fads are always amusing, and at the moment the young."marrieds" prefer club and restaurant parties, but the younger set denounce them as oldfashioned!.,' ' ;: . The "gate" crashing" incident during tho spring' season' had a- far:reaching effect, and for the moment tho .big-en-tertainment' is at a discount; except in the worthy cause of charity. The White Rose ball was an enormous success, many Royalties- patronising the affair and the presence of the Queen of Spain and her two daughters, almost atoning for the absence of all our gay young princes who are fulfilling duties overseas. '.'■•''. The Spanish Royal'ladies arc more like three sisters than mother ■ and daughters, and this'was emphasised by all three- wearing white georgette dresses embroidered all over, with pearl and crystal 'beads;. while the Queen looked supremely handsome with many jewels, her daughters' elected to appear without any ornaments at all. Evening - dresses become more and more feminine as the-season advances. This makes the doom of the, Eton crop a matter of course, .'for the sharp contrast between the wearer's neat head and her fluffy frock is too startling to be either chicor becoming. An Eton crop and a severe tailored suit enn 1 achieve distinction, but an Eton crop and a fragile chiffon frock have nothing in harmony. That is one of the j drawbacks of short hair —a woman can never change her,appearance. Dress ,dcsiguing" 4 for individual personalities instead' of merely making

pretty frocks is a profession that opens up vast and interesting possibilities. One of the smartest women Court dressmakers- is opening a business to be run en the lines pf a consulting doctor's practice, making a science of dress' designing by properly dressing women according to their type. She includes the vexed question of make-up— "Blondes will use powder and make-up that are'only, suitable for brunettes," she wails. "It is all such a pity so I shall help ' them decide ' their complexions as well as their clothes."

One plan for distinctive dressing she advocates is to'-'choose-one colour for one,season, and dress in shades of that colour only through out,the season. She herself-,will choose blue, having three frocks of different shades, a couple of evening frocks, with a coat and evening cloak to tone. Then her bag, underclothes, and handkerchief all take up the same shades, and when sho has any'"left over" from'.tho previous season she has them'all'dyed the'now colbur' chosen' and starts afresh. This method of dressing has much to recommend itself to the busy woman, for it is certainly cheaper and. saves an infinite amount of time because all tlio etceteras are bound' to bo right, it is distinctive because one becomes .known by one's chosen,shade, but woman, with her eternal love 'of change, is liable to prove an uncertain.patient; for this now dress practitioner. .:■ There is a simple school-girlish air ..about ..some. of. the., .new frocks, .and many of them are cut with more than a suggestion of. a pinafore. Then the unsophisticated, white collar and cuffs on navy coat frocks echo the schoolgirl note, and a brown velvet dress with cavalier cuffs and rounded collar of beige georgetto recalls Little Lord Fauntelroy. ' The demure grey frock I have sketched carries out these, ideas to. perfection, made in two shades of grey crepe, the pointed "apron" drapery tied at the back-in. a soft bow. This idea is. repeated on the cuffs, and a close row

of small buttons runs. down, from the bick of tho neck to the waist. An altogether charming frock for summer weather with a. bonnet-shaped hat of trrey Oriental straw simply trimmed by a soft ribbon velvet, swathing and bow in grey to tone. ; ■■ „..; The bow is.one of this season's pet accessories, but. you .must get that skilful carelessness-into your bows that is the hallmark of:-.-tlie A professional.. Much' more difficult; than'; it, sounds, for women can bo divided into two classes those who can tic a. bow /and those who cannot. '/ . -• Any expert milliner will tell you .-that bow tying is a gift, and men, of course,, know all the triekiness of,.trying .to tie a bow when dressing in a hurry for a festive occasion. , V : ' Bows arc, on,our hats, 'perched on our shoulders, finishing our necks and wrists and waists; Lu't they are all part of a definite design, and/never, put on haphazard. ... .... V- . '.'.'" Quito the most original spot chosen for a bow with sash ends was between the shoulders of a very decollete black velvet evening frock., It looked as though it had been stuck on' to her back, but on 'closer "'inspection-.a" veil of ' flesh" pink chiffon had been used to fill in tho dress aiid the bow was fastened to the top. .' Another frock , had'■; a black velvet dipping skirt, a white crepe de chine bodice, and a large bow with long sash ends: of ;black: velvet fastened between her shoulders. . ' . . Discussing the lengthened skirts with an expert recently, she,remarked: "Of course, skirts are lo.ng'er,; for the excellent reason' that had .they become, any. shorter they' might have been' mistaken for a frill!" , .' '" .;' ' ' ■ '■ Evidently, she agreed with my modern philosopher who declared that "the man who hides behind 1 woman's skirts to-day is not a coward; he is a-magi-cian! " ■ . [ '■■""■ RUTH SIBLEY.