WINTER WORRIES

Evening Post, Volume CV, Issue 127, 31 May 1928, Page 20

WINTER WORRIES

KEEP THE GROUND CLEAN MOKE ADVICE FOE AMATEURS After the- recent heavy rains ' thero is not. a.'great deal that can bo done about the garden untill the soil gets a bit drier, when the chief work will lie to keep the ground clear of weeds and dead leaves. Again it is necessary to reiterate that any proposed alterations to the general scheme of things should be proceeded with as soon as possible, so that no time.is lost when the spring happens along, while any planting that remains to bo done should also be carried out at onco so that the new subjects will settle down before, the really cold weather arrives. When the grounds gets moro dry continue the planting of Wallflowers, pansies, violas, polyanthus, auriculas, primroses, and such-like plants, where possible- paying attention to a colour: scheme, which, helps to give the garden an orderly appearance as well as adding to the general beauty of the surroundings. A bed of red tulips, interspersed with cream or yellow primroses or polyanthus, makes a really delightful display, while pink or light-coloured tulips mixed with deep red polyanthus also makes a very nice variation. A picturesque carpeting can be obtained for both tulips and narcissi by planting them amidst mignonette or forget-me-nots. To obtain1 the desired effect seeds of those should bo placed among the bulbs now, in which case they will bloom at the samo time as the bulbs. Spring flowers run mostly towards yellows in colour, and for this leason anemones and ranunculus should bo planted so as to give the required j variation with their bright reds and brilliant colouring in the- early season. They may still bo safely planted and, providing there is not too much rain,may bo put in as late as August. As cut flowers for household use they last a considerable time, which is a distinct advantage.' ■ i BEAUTIFUL ANCHUSA. A plan which is,not made as much use of it as it should be is Anchusa, the Dropmori or Italica. strains being the best varieties to experiment with. They are a splendid tedding-out subject, having beautiful porcelain or Cambridge blue- flowers, very similar to forget-me-nots in shape and size. They may be readily propagated by 'means of root cuttings. , The best method is to lift an old plant and ■cut the larger roots into lengths of from four to six inches, inserting them in boxes of sand, or, if preferred, in sandi placed in the open ground, from which they will very soon send / up shoots which will grow into strong healthy plants in the early spring, blooming during the summer months. The same method applies to the propagation of Oriental poppies, an equally delightful subject for the small garden.' ' ■ '. ■ ' PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. Propagation by cuttings is one of the most fascinating things about gardening. The principle of life is so distributed through all parts of a growing plant that a small piece cut from a healthy stem has power to form roots for itself when planted in the soil. This method of propagation confers on the gardener the power of multiplying cherished favourites. The amateur can rely, too, on the young plant thuß grown- possessing all the essential features and qualities of its parent. It does not vary like some plants grown from seed, which are the offspring of two parents and combine the differing qualities of both. The cutting has to maintain itse,lf from its store of vitality while it is making new roots below. But those cuttings are not the best which are taken from plants growing at express speed under the stimulus of artificial and liquid manures. Where experience has not yet been acquired, let the amateur gardener make 'cuttings from shoots of different degrees of firmness and . attempt to .• strike .. them all; The cut should be made with a'sharp knife immediately below ■ the joint,! Some of .the lower. leaves should be taken off that portion of the; cutting which is to 'be inserted into the ground. Cuttings are best struck in sand, free from iron oxides or any decaying vegetable matter. The young roots are at first formed out of the living matter of the cutting and so require no outside nourishment, and they are, in fact, better without it. If -the cuttings are first placed in pots, as is generally done, though the open ground may safely bo used, particularly for such cuttings as those from pansies and violas, it is wise to underlie the sand with some loaf mould. Such cuttings are usually inserted against the side of the pot and pressed to it, and ( when the pot is filled with sand it should bo made firm by watering. Cuttings of a more delicate nature often require to be struck under glass, beneath which a more or less artificial atmosphere of constant humidity is constantly maintained. The reason for this is that the evaporation' of moisture in the free air robs the leaves too quickly of their moisture. If, how- . ever, there is an excess of moisture under the glass there is some danger of the cuttings "damping off," which may bo avoided by lifting the glass daily for an hour or two during the warmth of the day. Almost all cuttings, geraniums being an exception, require- to be shaded from strong light until they have rooted, when light may be fireely afforded with beneficial results. VEGETABLE CROPS. |. No opportunity should bo lost when the ground is in a suitable condition to dig it over in preparation for future vegetable crops. Any sowing or planting of. vegetables is now practically i over for some time, although in Shcl--

tered parts facing! the sun a few cabbages or cauliflewers may safely be put in. In such cases only early varieties should'be used, as these require much less room than those for later cropping, as they never attain a very great size. Plant them in rows eighteen inches apart, with the plants separated about twelve inches in the rows. Care must be taken that the land is properly drained for such crops, as if this ia not attended to tho ground will bo cold and attendant growth slow; It would be wise to avoid any animal manures for a late crop of this kind, as such manures retain moisture and help to keep the ground cold. The best manure would bo of an artificial nature, blood and bone being tho best at the j rate, of about threo ounces •to the square yard. Superphosphate could be used in tho same proportion, or a little less, with about three-quarters of an ounce of sulphate of ammonia added. When growth is well on the way it will be' advantageous to put on a dressing of nitrate of soda at a rate oi not more than three-quarters of an ounce to the square yard." Ehubarb beds should receive special attention at this time, placing over them a good top-dressing of stable manure if it can be procured, but.if this is not available- use fowl manure mixed with good loam and dead leaves. It is not necessary to lift rhubarb every winter as is so frequently done, as it retards growth to a great extent. If the stools have become too big or the plants require to bo lifted for tho purpose of reconstructing ,the bed or placing them elsewhere, then they may. be lifted out, but otherwise it is far better to leave thorn undisturbed. If lifting has become imperative for either of the reasons mentioned, then they should be stored under a hedge or tree until ',the spring time, when they should be replanted in newly-dug ground. The only real advantage in taking them out of the ground in tho winter is that the beds are perhaps inclined to become weedy, while Keeping thom< out untiltho start of next season allows the gardener to deal with tho weeds without interfering unduly with tho growth of the plants. MANUTJRE FROM WASTE. Lawn cuttings, weeds, doad flowers, and any sort of vegetable rubbish will malto manure if put into a heap and allowed to rot. It can be dug into the ground or can/ be used as a mulching. When collecting weeds for this purpose do not. add those that are perennial, such as docks or couch grass. These should be collected and burned. Any diseased tissues should also bo , destroyed by fire, as this is the only sure means of getting rid of fungus spores. After burning, tho ashes can be safely used. Cabbage stumps, woody stems of sunflowers, maize culms, and suchlike residue should also be burned, after which they afford a valuable source of potash. Weeds should always be cut beforo they seed, because if left until they do and then placed on the rubbish heap, the seeds simply lay dormant until they are spread on the ground, .when they germinate, with the .result that they are- a continual ■ source of worry and trouble In no case, however, should any vegetable refuse bo taken away from the garden. Either it should bo burned and the ashes used with excellent result, or it should be allowed to rot and then dug into tho ground, an equally beneficial proceeding. ■