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TREES AND SHRUBS

THE PLANTING SEASON v. SOME-USEFUL HINTS?' While there 'is not a great deal that can be done in the garden proper at the present time, except, o£ course, to keep tilings clean and tidy, this is the period of the year when the planting of trees and shrubs should be carried out. Where it is intended to plant fruit trees it is as well to remember that the success of future crops in this direction depend largely upon the proper preparation of the soil, and no matter what the gardener <

may do later on nothing, will compensate for any lack of. attention in this direction. "There are several things that apply just as much-to shrubs as they do to 'fruit trees, the chief of these being that neither should ever be placed in the ground with broken or lacerated roots. If this is allowed the effect will be extremely harmful and detrimental to future growth. Such broken parts die back to the break, and quite frequently affect the rest of that particular part of the root. Take a sharp knife or a pair, of seccateurs and cut ■these broken roots off just above the damaged part, and from these will spring a number of fibrous roots which will help to feed'the tree or shrub. Again, it is advisable not to plant the subject- too deep. Where the ground is heavy and clayey four to six inches of soil, above the roots will be ample, while the co.verjng even in light, sandy soils need not be more than from six to nine inches. It is essential when planting fruit trees ta keep their roots as near to the surface as possible,- so that they 'may not be induced to descend to such a depth as-to be beyond the influence of sun and air. The earth deep down is cold and inhospitable, being without aeration and frequently , sodden with water, which will combine to prevent tlio roots from fulfilling their proper functions. If a tree is suffering from being down too deep its leaves will turn yellow aiid the fruit will become spotted as a result, of being led by thin, watery sap, which is not sufficient to nourish anything like a decent crop. If the roots are kept near to the surface they can obtain all the air they need for proper nourishment, picking up tha all-necessary carbonic acid gas from the atmosphere and so keeping themselves in a .healthy condition's Under these ideal conditions the sap is thickened and cnrished, and so the tree is able to produce the fine fruit which every gardener should aim to produce, but which, ho cannot hope to grow if he has not paid attention to the essentials of fruit-growing as,outlined. ATTENTION TO DRAINAGE. Every possible attention should be given to the land which is to be used for the growing of fruit and other trees, as cold, waterlogged, and undrained ground ' can never produce good fruit successfully. Nearly every garden has its slmdy corners where 'plums will be more likely to succeed, whereas pears and peaches require the sunniest part of the garden. Apples will succeed in partial shade, but it is will to remember that all fruit requires a large amount of sunshine if it is to be brought to. maturity. It is advisable to plant the subject as soon after it is received from, the nursery as possible, : as 'every hour it is out of the ground is drawing adversely upon its vitality. ■ If there, is likely ;to be delay iii planting, the'wisest procedure is to heel them in in some odd corner of the garden until they can bo placed in their per-, nianent home. When digging the hole in which the tree or. shrub is to be placed be sure that it is not too small, but ample in size to give the roots all' the play ncccssary for quick growth. With most fruit trees and some shrubs it is.advisable to root-prune them before planting, particularly cutting back the bigger roots which may otherwise become folded over in such a maimer that the sap fails to have free access to the tree itself and eventually { the part in. question dies off. Before fill-

A GAKDEN EIGHTY YEAES HENCE

ing in the hole drive a stake firmly into tho ground at the side o£ the tree, taking care not to damage the roots, which might otherwise be tho case if it be driven blindly. Having placed the tree with its roots spread but evenly and the stake in the right position, cover the roots with some good, fine soil, . working it in amongst the roots and finally treading it down hard, so that no "pockets are left to become filled with stagnant water or to become the home of some pest or other. The last two or three inches of soil placed in the jiole should not bo stumped down, otherwise it. may become caked, and, therefore, prevent the aeration which is so desirable. Where the ground is hard aud difficult to penetrate it is advisable to make the hole considerably bigger than would otherwise be necessary, so that the roots may have plenty of room io spread out as tliey grow. If this is not done they will grow as though confined in pots, the roots going down deep, only to get into unfriendly surroundings, whicfy will do considerable harm to the future welfare of the tree. THE ROSE GARDEN. Now is tho time when those intending to start a rose garden should'give attention to the ground which is to bo used for that purpose. It is impossible to go into all the details necessary in regard to different soils within the confines of a newspaper article, ami only a simple outline can be given at this time, but those who have special obstacles to overcome should state their troubles to "Practical" in writing, and an attempt will be made to help them over their difficulties. There are many small gardens in. Wellington which do not offer the best facilities for rose growing, but with a little attention even the most unlikely places can be made to produce fairly good results. The amateur grower must make the most, of the space and soil which he has available.-, Frequently the small garden is already so crowded with flowers and shrubs that roses do not get the room they require, either above or below the surface, as wherever there are trees and shrubs within the confines of a small area their roots monopolise a great part of tiie garden. Roses should have as much space as possible, and, above all, should be open to the sun and rain. Strong winds are to be avoided, but they should not be placed m such a sheltered position as to receive the benefits of no wind at all.' Plenty of fresh air and sunshine are the first, essentials of successful rose growing.. If in too sheltered a position they are very subject to bacterial and fungoid diseases. Make the best possible use of the soil, and the gardener cannot fail to grow good roses. The best soil is a rich loam with a good clay subsoil. Light, sandy soils, or that which is heavy, especially with clay, are both unfavourable to the plant. Where the soil is light,, dress it with rich loam with cow manure. Where it is heavy, sand should be added, and, if possible, peat, adding stable manure, leaf mould, and plenty of bonedust, the. whole being properly blended during digging. Wood ashes are also of considerable assistance in growing roses. Lime may "be used to break up the heavier varieties ,of soil, but if stable manure is being used it is advisable not to use lime until some five or six weeks later, as it releases the ammonia which is always contained in this class of manure. The ground should have, already been thoroughly trenched, as no. grower can hope to obtain results if he has not done so. If the ground is trenched early in

the year it will receive the- benefits of frost' and rain, as these two desirable winter conditions arrive, while the sun will also do its portion in making the ground fertile. This work should really have been started some months back if it is expected to plant roses during the next month or two, as constantly worked soil lias many advantages. The air penetrates more deeply, and the roots benefit thereby. , " ■ As., farmyard and stable manures are difficult to .procure in the city, it is necessary to obtain some artificial substitute. The'ground may therefore be prepared with bonedust and basic slag in the lower spit, about half a pound:to the square yard of the latter-being sufficient. Such work should all be carried out during the present month, leaving ..the actual planting to June or even July, particularly if the present mild conditions remain with us. Special advice in regard to planting and cultivation will be given later.

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Bibliographic details

Evening Post, Volume CV, Issue 121, 24 May 1928, Page 20

Word Count
1,506

TREES AND SHRUBS Evening Post, Volume CV, Issue 121, 24 May 1928, Page 20

TREES AND SHRUBS Evening Post, Volume CV, Issue 121, 24 May 1928, Page 20