QUITE ENGLISH

Evening Post, Volume CXIII, Issue 54, 5 March 1927, Page 18

QUITE ENGLISH

;WAEDEOBE OF A DUCHESS HATS TO SUIT A ROYAL WEARER BEAUTIFUL GOWNS The Duchess of York's wardrobe for the present tour consists mostly of light-coloured clothes, in view of the fact that she will be visiting New Zealand during the summer months, the same reason applying to Australia, where it is likely to be even hotter. The stock, is naturally very extensive, as Her Boyal Highness is likely to be occupied with so many official duties that time will not permit of her shopping, at any of the principal centres she may visit.

The clothes are all very charming, states the "Daily Mail." Some of the original models were elaborately embroidered and trimmed, as is the way of many simply cut frocks ■ nowadays. In. each case, however, the Duchess had the embroideries either entirely omitted^or reduced to a minimum, and the resulting simplicity and absence of fussiness is a great gain in artistic and elegant effect. Of the hundreds of thousands of Dominion women who will take the keenest interest in. what the Boyal visitor: wears,' every, one with an instinct for dress will agree that the Duchess gives an excellent lead to younger women in fashions that are as

Of an exquisitely soft blush-rose shado is one ensemble suit. The dress, in crepe do chine, is ornamented with hand-done pin tucks which are arranged in decorative manner in dual lines and small lozenge shapes on the skirt and above the narrow tie belt. The latter is fastened with a pinky-fawn bucklo and eyelets. The coat worn over this is of softest Kashmir cloth lined with crepe de chine to match the dress. It is collared and cuffed in sable and, though cut on^straight linos, has a bolt which is stitched on flatly at the back and is loft loose irt front to fasten with a buckle.

A very delightful,suit is in summer tweed with, a- smooth finish. It is in lilao mauve, through which white threads are woven. The short coat has cuffs and collar of cream fox and is lined with lilac-mauve moire to match tho jumper which is worn with a skirt of the samo fabric as' the coat. The

jumper has the V-shaped eorsago opening turned back with Carriekmacross lace and an ornamentation down the front of about a dozen small overlapping ovals of the moire caught with as many small gilt buttons. The cuffs havo a little ornamentation to match. SOME JUMPER MODELS. In tho skirt of a lovely mauve crepe do chine jumper suit all the fulness is arranged in seven narrow box pleats forming a front panel, these being stitched down part of the way. The front of the jumper has a V-shaped neck opening, tho revers being provided with long narrow ends, the only ornamentation being a second layer of the crepe do chine in fancy shape stitchei on. This suit is duplicated in beige, which ought to prove a useful colour for train travel. All the jumper suits, it is interesting to note, have a long, plain, aI T most coat type of sleeve. A silver grey jumper dress is similarly severe in style, and a pale blue jumper dress with two side panels of iino \ilcats has a little embroidery in white on the corsage. Tho Duchess has beautiful pearls, and the plain, type

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n,tr> at ln tractjve uttle garment which l&^Ser^lS S «* Biarritz, Dcauville, and La Boule. These were darned all round, border fashion, in brightly colour^ wools and had ornamfnta^ poX The Duchess's coatee is forget-me-not blue in colour, the ornamentation beSLTf biuae! ummium and ™^ Those people who admire long skirts and those who have been trying hard to bring them back to fashion il evening gowns will be interested to know that one of Her Royal Highness's even* ing dresses, a deep cream lame, has the skirt full and rather long. A s in the fashion with these new g long-skirted dresses, it is designed on picture lines So is an evening frock of apricot velvet, the soft chiffon-backed variety that is so light in weight and so supple in wear. Pale pink satin and chiffon are used for another dinner gown with trimmings of bugles and big pink paillettes, narrow ends of the latter hanging at intervals down the skirt

HATS OF LIGHT WEIGHT. The hats which the Duchess has had made are light in weight and light in colour. They follow the style which she usually adopts in being closely fitting, upturned in the brim and trimmed at the right side. It is a style 'very well adapted for a royal wearer,.'since hats on those lines remain in place and do not require that fraction of readjustment or that surreptitious feat- or little pull which the average ; woman can give to her millinery—but which is denied royalty. '■'•'': A summery model, which .'has gone from Mme. Shelvey's workrooms to the trunks for the tour,: has a foundation of pale blue_ net with a lattice-work pattern carried out in very narrow folds of taffeta. A bunch of the folds of taffeta hangs, rather like the petals of a big chrysanthemum, at the right side, some above, some below, the brim To wear with a pale pink sabletrimmed ensemble suit a delightful little pink velvet hat is fashioned, with the crown drawn up in goffered fashion a sheaf of soft plumage exactly to tone being arranged at the right side in conical fashion, the wide part turning towards the front. A' mauve felt model for wear with the mauve summer tweed suit has one of those miniature belts, about half an inch wide, in silver mesh' passed round the crown to buckle at the right side. A white petersham ribbon with the ends frayed is the only- ornamentation to a white crochet straw hat. In addition to the fixed wardrobes in the cabins of the Duchess and her two ladies-in-waiting, Lady Cavan and Mrs. John Gilmour, aboard the battle;cruiser Renown, there is a wardrobe room fitted after the manner of a dressmaker's salon, with two series of rods for taking dresses, and overhead are twoshelves for Btoring hat boxes. ' . SHOES TOR THE DUCHESS. The Duchess prefers shoes fastened by a strap, and in consequence the stock of Pinet shoes she 1 has "ordered are all of this type. Among those for sport and serviceable walking shoes there are several pairs, in lizard skin. One pair, dyed bois de rose, is quite plain with a single bar and a medium heel. An- ■ other design is in white buckskin^ornamented with tan calf. Her-Koyal High- | ness—-who takes size 4—has all her shoes mado with a short; slightly round-• ed toe. •

The pretty soft shade of blue which so frequently figures in items of the Duchess's wardrobe 1 also appears in her shoes. A'sandal shape in soft kid of this shade has a perforated vamp, the perforations having insertions of white kid. Keplicas of ■ this shoe have beon-made also in beige and .grey. kid. , Many of . the .royal traveller :s light walking .shoes . are of ■b'oige" kid, one pair being trimmed with lizard skin. . ■ .

Tho Duchess is fond of Beauvais embroidery for trimming, and ordered a pair of black and a pair of beige satin slippers decorated with a rose design. Ono pair of blue satin evening shoes has the vamp outlined with pearls and turquoiso trimming. A pale pink satin pair was dyed to match the ornamental heel the Duchess has chosen. This, is painted pale, pink and is encrusted-with diamante and red stones.

Some of tho shoos for evening wear have a single strap, others have a central strap of diamante as well as the strap with which tho shoe is fastened.

The jewelled strap 'on many of the evening shoes is' made in a series of small curves, a little pointed piece of diamante appearing between each curve. In the majority of light walking shoes and all the evening shoes the heels are high. ■

Two pairs of pink satin mules trimmed with chiffon flowers to match are replicas of those mado for the Duchess's wedding trousseau.